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Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1895, by 

CHARLES J. BUTLER. 

In the office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington. 




yW» 



R Bachelor's ^anpbles 



THROUGH 



Tfye British Isles. 



By Ciias. J. Butler. 




CAMDEN, N.J.: 

I.OUIS B. COX, PRINTER, 764 FEDERAL ST 

1895. 



J?4 



^To my friends 

on both sides of the broad Atlantic, 

%his S°3& 

is affectionately dedicated by the author, 

Qhas. § m Sutler, 

gamden, New Jersey, 1895. 



PREFACE. 

T A /HEN I was a small boy we lived near a family 
^ who came from County Wicklow, Ireland. I 
was always intensely interested in hearing them describe 
the beauties of that country. A desire took hold of 
me to see the land beyond the broad Atlantic. This 
desire grew stronger as I heard and read descriptions 
of the British Isles in later years, but I always con- 
sidered Old Ocean rather treacherous, and never felt 
like trusting myself to her care. Not until within a 
few months prior to taking the trip did I begin .to 
think more favorably of her. The Sunday previous to 
sailing was very stormjr, and calculated to make one 
rather pensive who was about to launch out on the 
uncertainties of the great deep. I spent a part of the 
day with some friends, one of whom, seating himself 
at the organ, began playing and singing for my especial 
benefit. His selections were of such a character as to 
make me feel I was spending my last Sabbath on 
earth; that somewhere between dear old America and 
the shores of England, Old Ocean would cover me over 
and keep me hidden away until Gabriel blew his 
trumpet. However, I was undaunted by the dark pic- 
ture presented, and took the never-to-be-regretted trip, 
my enjoyment of which, together with some historic 
facts, I have endeavored, in my homespun way, to 
bring before my readers. C. J. B. 

November 3, 1895. 



The "Southwark." 

By Chas. J. Butler. 

The " Southwark," noble ship, came forth 

Old Ocean's waves to breast, 
Just as the golden light of day 

Was sinking in the west. 

Soon Night her sable mantle spread 

Out o'er our trackless way ; 
The stars peeped out, and o'er us watched 

'Till breaking of the day. 

Old Ocean kindly smiled on us ; 

She scarcely heaved a sigh ; 
She seemed just like a happy lass, 

When naught of care is nigh. 

But, ah, the winds from far away, 

Some secret trouble brought ; 
She sighed, and moaned and cried aloud, 

As for relief she sought. 

But still our noble ship pressed on, 

Her mission to perform ; 
To bear those trusted to her care, 

Safe through the raging storm. 

Safe in the harbor now, at last, 

Our ship doth calmly rest, 
Just as a little wearied child 

Sleeps on its mother's breast. 

Thou, Ruler of the land and sea, 

Thanks unto Thee, who gave 
To man the power to guide our ship 

Safe through each crested wave. 



Written at Sea, June, 1895. 



A Bachelor's Rambles Through the 
British Isles. 




Seaward Bound. 

KDNESDAY, May 23, 1894, I em- 
barked on the new and well-equipped 
steamer ' ' Southwark , ' ' sailing from 
Philadelphia to Liverpool, England. 
When I purchased my ticket I was 
assigned to room No. 19, and had 
my luggage snugly packed away 
there for the voyage. Some of my 
friends who came to bid me adieu 
wished to see my quarters, so I led the way to 
the stateroom, and was about entering when the old 
Scotch steward called to me and said : " My lad, there 
is a woman and some children in that room." I said 
to him, " how is that ?" I knew I had made no con- 
tract like that ; it was rather a heavy responsibility for 
a bachelor to assume the care of a lady and three 
children on a voyage of three thousand miles. I said : 
" My ticket calls for 19." "And so does the lady's," 
he replied. Sure enough, she was there with the trio, 
holding the fort. We hurried off on the wharf to see 
the agent. He informed me they were compelled to 
make a change, and neglected to notify me. I was 
given one of the officers ' rooms on the outside of the 
ship, which was preferable to the one* I had been 
assigned. 



8 A BACHELOR'S RAMBLES 

When I grasped the hands of my friends and bade 
them farewell, a strong desire took hold of me to 
gather up my bundles and go ashore with them, but I 
knew if I did, I should have to go into exile out in the 
Jersey pines, or be subject to the sport of those to 
whom I had talked of the trip so enthusiastically. A 
feeling of sadness crept over me as I saw the last line 
cast off, and we slowly drifted away from the grand 
old city with which I have been so familiar the most of 
my life. We steamed down the river, expecting to 
reach the Capes about 5 P. m., but when opposite 
Marcus Hook, Pa., we dropped anchor. The question 
was passed from one to another : ' ' What is the mat- 
ter ?" Finally some one reported : ' ' They are making 
some repairs to the engine." Just a few days before 

sailing I was introduced by my friend, Dr. S r, to 

Mr. A M and wife, of Philadelphia, and to 

Mrs. D and family, of Cleveland, O. Aside from 

them, I knew no one on shipboard. Both families 
were returning to Nottingham, England, to make that 
their home again. We saw the sun drop down behind 
the western hills, and our ship still in the same posi- 
tion, with little prospect of leaving soon. One of the 

Miss D 's played several piano solos for us, and the 

evening was passed very pleasantly. I retired at 
10:30 ; could still see the lights along the shores of 
Pennsylvania and New Jersey. The pilot who was to 
take us as far as the Capes roomed with me. He said 
he thought we would leave about 1 a. m., on the high 
water. In conversation with him, I learned that he 

was a Mr. B , of Cape May City, and was acquainted 

with a number of my friends. I told him I was feel- 



THROUGH THE BRITISH ISLES. 9 

ing rather blue. He said he thought I would soon 
change color. 

Thursday, May 24. — I was awakened about 3 
a. m. by some one calling for the pilot. When he 
returned he said we would not be able to leave until 
the dense fog lifted. When I arose I found the heavy 
mist hiding the land from our view. I formed the 
acquaintance of Dr. R , a son of one of the promi- 
nent ministers of the Philadelphia Conference. He 
was alone, and in the same frame of mind as myself — 
inclined to look back toward home and talk of the 
friends there. He was going to England and Germany 
to complete his education. He proved to be a very 
genial companion. When the gong sounded the invi- 
tation for dinner I had a good opportunity of seeing 
the ship's company. There were about 180 cabin 
passengers. Most of them I found to be very excellent 
people. Quite a number were from the West. The 
tables were laden with a good supply of food, and the 
steward, with his efficient corps of assistants, gave us 
the best of attention. The officers were kind, obliging 
men. I began to feel we were in a good, seaworthy 
ship, and one that was well manned ; and it proved to 
be so. They lifted the huge piece of iron that had 
held us fast for nearly twenty-four hours, and we 
started seaward. We soon passed all the familiar 
towns on the Delaware and were in the broad bay, 
with the prospect of a kind reception from Old Ocean. 
But we had not proceeded far before I discovered a 
very ominous looking cloud in the southwest. The 
lightning soon began to flash and the thunder roll, and 
I concluded the elements were about to give us a grand 



io A BACHELOR'S RAMBLES 

sendoff. I had begun a correspondence with some 
who were especially interested in the tall lad of more 
than thirty summers ; the pilot kindly consented to 
post my letters. When we reached the Breakwater a 
small boat came up alongside the ship to take the pilot 
off. When I bade him good-bye I felt as though I was 
parting with an old friend. I noticed them bringing a 
very seedy looking character from the steerage. They 
hustled him down the ladder into the boat with the 
pilot, and then threw his old shoes and bundle in after 
him. He was what they call a stowaway. A look of 
disappointment crept over his face as they pulled away 
for the pilot boat, lying off in the distance. At 7:15 
we passed out to sea. We ran beyond the reach of the 
storm in a short time. Soon the last vestige of land 
had disappeared, and we were speeding our way across 
the trackless ocean. I prepared myself for whatever 
demand Old " Neptune " might make upon me, but, 
to my surprise, he gave me the go-by. I seated myself 
on deck with my friends, thinking, after all, I might 
prove to be more seaworthy than I anticipated. I had 
my autoharp with me, and gave them a few selections, 
such as " Home, Sweet Home." It was quite in har- 
mony with their feelings, as well as my own. Some 
one finally suggested that we adjourn to the saloon and 

have some singing. It was agreed to. Miss D 

presided at the piano. We sang some familiar pieces, 

the entire company joining. Mr. M has a fine 

voice, and gave us some excellent selections. I lost 
sight of the fact I was fast leaving America in the dis- 
tance. They all expressed themselves as having spent 
the evening very pleasantly. That was the beginning 



THROUGH THE BRITISH ISLES. n 

of good times on the ship. I retired at 10:30, com- 
mitting myself to the care of Him ' ' who holds the 
great deep in the hollow of His hand." 

Friday, May 25. — I was awakened at 4 a. m. by 
voices pitched in a very high key. I listened, and 
presently I understood one of the lads to say : " Ye'er 
a liar!" I thought, now we are about to have the 
monotony of ship lite broken by a free fight. I waited 
to learn what the result of an assertion like that would 
be. In a few moments a son of the Emerald Isle 
lifted up his voice and shouted : " Lift them higher." 
Then I understood what it meant. They were lifting 
the ashes from the hold of the ship, and instead of it 
being " ye'er a liar," it was " lift the bucket higher." 
I laid down in peace and slept until 6:30, when I found 
the ship rolling considerably, and it had a tendency to 
take the edge off my appetite. However, when the 
gong sounded the invitation for the morning meal, I 
entered the saloon with the faithful few. But my stay 
was very brief. ' ' Neptune ' ' had at last found me out, 
and demanded a settlement at once. I reluctantly 
gave up all the stock I had on hand. After this busi- 
ness transaction with the old gent, I decided not to lay 
in another supply for the present. I concluded to try 
a little poetry. I had a copy of Whittier's poems with 

me, and I suggested to Dr. R that we find some 

quiet place and spend a little time with the grand old 
Quaker poet, which we did, until the call came for 
dinner. The doctor obeyed the summons cheerfully, 
but I slowly wended my way to the dining-room. I 
did my best to relieve the table of its burden, but, 
when I had finished my first course, concluded to 



12 A BACHELOR'S RAMBLES 

adjourn, to meet there again- under more favorable cir- 
cumstances. The doctor finally joined me again, and 
we resumed our reading. Suddenly things began to 
be rather prosy with me. I excused myself, and went 
on the • double-quick to the side of the ship, and, as I 
gazed down into the dark blue sea, I wondered when I 
would see the last of that first course. That was the 
last time during the voyage that I was called on for a 
contribution. I became acquainted with many more of 
the passengers, among the number a very excellent 
man and his wife and daughter from Peoria, 111. He, 
with quite a number of others, was returning to the 
home of his childhood on a visit. After tea we 
assembled on deck and spent the time in singing and 
pleasant conversation, until I almost lost sight of the 
fact I was on the broad Atlantic, whose bosom had 
been swept by the storms of ages. Some one discov- 
ered the lights of a ship far away in the distance. As 
it drew near our ship signalled her, and she displayed 
her friendly light, which we watched with a great deal 
of interest. Soon she disappeared. Some one quoted, 
very appropriately: "The ships that pass in the 
night." We had some fine talent on board. They 
were arranging for a concert to be given on the evening 
of Decoration Day. 

Saturday, May 26. — When I came out on deck I 
felt better able to meet the day than I did the morning 
previous. I managed to adjust my sea legs so that I 
kept step a trifle better. We amused ourselves with 
various games and with the usual promenade on deck. 
I styled it the boardwalk. I began to enjoy "life on 
the ocean wave." I ensrasred in conversation with a 



THROUGH THE BRITISH ISLES. 13 

very interesting lad who was travelling alone. He 
was on his way to Antwerp to join his father and 
mother. It was quite an undertaking for one so young, 
but he seemed equal to it. We had with us a Dr. 

C , of Harrisburg, Pa., who, by his kind, genial 

manner, soon won the respect of all the passengers. 
He was going to Dublin to attend the Medical Con- 
vention. One of the gentlemen who was in company 
with him was a delegate to the World's Convention of 
the Y. M. C. A., held at Exerter Hall, London, com- 
mencing June 2nd, and closing on the 8th. I had the 
honor of being a delegate from our Association, Cam- 
den, N. J., to that wonderful Convention, but was not 
able to reach there until the 6th, as our ship was late 
in getting into port, and I was obliged to go to Har- 
born, near Birmingham, before going to London. 
Four sailing vessels passed during the day. We were 
all glad to see some life outside of our ship, on Old 
Ocean's dreary waste. There is always some excite- 
ment when anyone discovers a ship. The news spreads 
as rapidly as gossip in a little village. I saw a num- 
ber of persons running to the forward part of the ship , 
and I understood one of them to say: "There is *fire." 
I thought, is it possible that I have come out here to 
be cremated ! I hurried to where the crowd had 
gathered, and learned the cause of the excitement. A 
school of porpoises were performing their gymnastics. 
I said to an Irish gentleman : "I thought some one 
said there was fire?" "And I did, too, sir, ' ' he replied. 
"And what would you have done if such had been the 
case?" I asked. "Sure, there's no chance to run; I 
should have stood and took it," he replied. I 



i 4 A BACHELOR'S RAMBLES 

was requested to take part in the coming concert, but 
declined, for I had a very vivid recollection of my first, 
and it was also my last, appearance on the stage at a 
public entertainment. I was a small boy, but my 
conviction was, whatever my mission might be in this 
world, surely that was not my calling, and there had 
been no change in my mind. 

Sunday, May 27. — I peeped out the porthole of 
my stateroom and discovered some very threatening- 
looking clouds skirting the horizon. 1 concluded that 
I should know what a storm at sea meant before the 
day had passed, but the rain came without the tempest, 
for which I was truly thankful. We were nearly in 
mid-ocean, but had not run beyond the Sabbath. The 
spirit of the day seemed to pervade the ship. The 
vast majority of the passengers were in the habit of 
observing the Lord's day, and even those who seemed 
inclined to forget their responsibility to their Creator 
were thoughtful, and felt the sacredness of the day. 
At 10:30 quite a large congregation gathered in the 
saloon for divine worship, the captain having charge. 

Miss M was to preside at the piano, but was sick, 

so they insisted on me filling the position, and also 
leading the singing. As I am not a professional I de- 
clined in favor of some one else, but they finally 
pressed me into service. The captain read the Episcopal 
service, and I led the singing in good, old-fashioned 
Methodistic style. I remarked to some of them that 
we had had a Methodist Episcopal meeting. The 
hymns we sang were: "Jesus, Lover of my Soul," and 
"Rock of Ages." I had sung them from my child- 
hood, but they never seemed so sweet, or to contain so 



THROUGH THE BRITISH ISLES. 15 

much meaning as they did that Sabbath, far, far out at 
sea. In the afternoon I perused the Bible, that old 
chart and compass which has guided so many storm - 
tossed mariners over the ocean of life, safe into the 
heavenly port. They had but one regular service on 
board, so after tea quite a number of us gathered in 
the saloon and held a song service. I think most of 
us, as we left the saloon and returned to our state- 
rooms, felt that the Sabbath spent out in mid-ocean 
had been a very profitable one. 

Monday, May 28. — One would suppose we had an 
ample supply of water to tide us over, but it seemed 
not, for the clouds dropped down great sheets of it all 
the morning. I said to a gentleman formerly from the 
Green Isle : ' ' This is a great body of water. " " Sure 
it is," he replied. I said: " I suppose if we had had 
anything to do with making this old world we would 
have fixed things different." "Sure, 'n we would 
have done with a few quarts less of water." We were 
deprived of the pleasure of being on deck, but with 
such excellent company one could be entertained 
wherever they were gathered. Among the leading 
ones who seemed bent on making things pleasant for 

us was a Mr. Geo. D , of Germantown, Pa. He 

was what the Scotch people call ' ' a cheery chap. ' ' He 
had a way of scattering sunshine that few men possess, 
and it was appreciated by the entire company. Mr. 

D 's mother was traveling with him. She was a 

fine old Scotch lady. They were returning to their 
old home in Aberdeen, Scotland, for a visit. After the 

storm abated, Dr. R and I took a walk through 

the steerage. A large number of the steerage passengers 



16 A BACHELOR'S RAMBLES 

were returning to their native land — on account of the 
depression of business in America. I do not often com- 
ment on the ladies' headgear, but a tall, gaunt-looking 
woman wore a bonnet that attracted my attention. It 
was either the very latest style, or dated back to the 
beginning of the century. It was built of straw, some- 
thing in the shape of an old-fashioned covered wagon ; 
it had an overcoming frill running around the entrance, 
and a cape with no lack of material. It did not strike 
the fancy of any of the ladies sufficiently for them to 
adopt the style. We ran into a dense fog early in the 
afternoon. The fog horn sounded rather doleful. It 
suggested to us there was a possibility of colliding with 
some stray craft, and of being compelled to exchange 
our comfortable quarters for a home down with the 
fish. The mist disappeared in a short time, and we 
had a beautiful sunset. It resembled a ball of fire, and 
seemed to drop into the ocean. I almost expected to 
hear the hissing sound that a ball of fire would produce 
falling into the water. I did not often see the sun rise. 
It was generally up attending to business before I 
found my way on deck. In the evening we were 

entertained by a Miss M . She gave us several 

fine solos. She was on her way to London to finish 
her musical education. So closed our fourth day 
at sea. 

Tuesday, May 29. — The sun failed to put in its 
appearance. It was off duty most part of the time 
during our voyage. The clouds seemed to have the 
right of way. They looked as though they were get- 
ting ready to create a disturbance, and I felt that I 
would rather not see a row between the elements, for I 



THROUGH THE BRITISH ISLES. 17 

knew we would be drawn into it. I watched with a 
great deal of interest the result of taking the log, and 
when the figures appeared on the board showing the 
distance we had traveled, I found we were in mid- 
ocean. I could scarcely realize that fifteen hundred 
miles of water swept between me and my dear old 
home. I was wonderfully impressed with the vastness 
of the Atlantic. One may stand on the shore and 
look out over the vast expanse of water and think it 
means something to cross to the other side, but he can 
have only a faint conception of what an undertaking 
it is. I felt as though all the world had been blotted 
out, and we were a small world, afloat on a wilderness 
of water. Those who were to take part in the concert 
of the next evening spent the morning practicing. 
We all looked forward to the entertainment with as 
much pleasure as a boy does when there is a circus 
coming to town. In the evening the sailors gathered 
on deck in front of their quarters, and two of them 
had musical instruments They played pieces that 
seemed to run down into the feet of some of the sailor 
lads. They began waltzing, and kept it up quite a 
while, much to the amusement of a number of the 
passengers. 

Wednesday, May 30. — I was awakened some 
time during the night by the howling of the wind and 
the violent tossing of the ship. I saw a pair of feet 
going up toward the top of the berth. At once I rec- 
ognized them as my property. When I was a boy I 
frequently tried to stand on my head, but never suc- 
ceeded very well. But I found myself performing the 
feat very gracefully this time. For some time after my 



18 A BACHELOR'S RAMBLES 

advent into this old world, I am told, they rocked me 
to sleep in an old-fashioned cradle ; but that was so 
long ago that I had become unaccustomed to that way 
of sleeping. I found being " rocked in the cradle of 
the deep " had a tendency to disturb my slumbers. 
Old Ocean was in a bad temper, and continued so all 
day. The water at times was piled up around us like 
a huge wall. It being Decoration Day, and also the 
evening for our concert, most of the day was spent in 
preparing for it. The saloon was trimmed very taste- 
fully with flags. Over the piano the Stars and Stripes 
at;d the flag of old England were festooned. I was 
glad to see them blending so harmoniously. I under- 
stand it was not always the case ; that back in the far 
distant past the Old L,ady and her son, U. S. A., failed 
to agree on a certain question. She sought to bring 
him to terms, but he objected to the ?od, and cai'ried 
his point. But long before my recollection they 
became reconciled, and have been on friendly terms 
ever since. We remembered that it was the day when 
the graves of many of the brave soldiers would be 
strewn with flowers, and, although remembering that 
we were nearly two thousand miles from the land 
where sleeps their dust, and that we would not have 
the privilege of joining the multitude in placing the 
small tribute of remembrance on their graves, yet we 
knew that upon the wings of thought we could carry 
the flowers of respect and gratitude, and leave them 
there as our tribute. The concert commenced at 7.30, 
and the saloon was crowded. They had arranged a 
very good program, and it was well executed. Mr. 
Arthur M and a gentleman from Philadelphia sang 



THROUGH THE BRITISH ISLES. 19 

a very appropriate piece, entitled, "Ship Ahoy." 
Judging from the heavy encore, the audience enjoyed 

it immensely. Mr. T , of Philadelphia, gave a 

recitation, which was appreciated very much. " The 
Star Spangled Banner " and " God Save the Queen " 
were sung, the entire audience joining. The talent did 
themselves great credit. The admittance fee was a 
shilling, and the programs sold for a sixpence, so that 
quite a nice little sum was realized. The proceeds 
were given to the Liverpool Sailors' Orphanage, a very 
worthy institution. All expressed themselves as being 
delighted with the entertainment, and gave a vote of 
thanks to the committee. 

Thursday, May 31. — The elements behaved as 
badly as on the night previous. They seemed to 
wreak vengeance on our craft, tossing her about re- 
gardless of our comfort. But she was well fastened 
together, and equal to all the pounding she received. 
She pushed her way along, bent on taking us safely to 
Liverpool. When I came out on deck I found it 
rather hard to manipulate my number nines. There 

was an old Yorkshireman rooming with George D . 

He had a large vein of humor running through him, 
and greatly amused us. On leaving home, his wife (or 
old woman, as the styled her,) gave him a remedy for 
seasickness. The old gentleman failed to take it 
according to directions. He was decidedly "old 
school " in the quantity he used. We styled him 
Doctor, because he was always insisting on prescribing 
this same remedy for us. But, after listening to his 
description of it, we thought seasickness preferable. 
We did not see a friendly sail during the day. One 



20 A BACHELOR'S RAMBLES 

would think, from the vast number of vessels that 
cross the Atlantic, we would have sighted more of 
them. I spent the evening in the saloon with a num- 
ber of friends, retiring at 10:30. It was still storming. 
Friday, June 1. — When I awoke, I was surprised 
to find the sun had resumed business, after an absence 
of several days. We all greeted it with as much pleas- 
ure as we would had we met an old friend. The ocean 
had quite recovered from her fit of anger and was so 
calm and serene that it would seem impossible for her 
to get into such a bad temper as she had been in for 
several days past. Every one seemed cheerful and 
happy. Those who had been conspicuous by their 
absence at the table were at their post, and gave prom- 
ise of making up for lost time. This was the tenth day 
out. Our ship's company had become almost like one 
family. Friendships were formed that I presume will 
be lasting. I am not quite sure that any of our young 
men met any one that they decided to take as a life 
partner, although some of them were quite interested. 
One in particular, I think, would have been quite wil- 
ling to have had the voyage protracted, as reaching land 
meant separation. A lad who had a harmonica with 

him began to play some lively airs. Mr. A. M 

suggested that they have a waltz, ancLin a few moments 
quite a number were having a grand hop. I was invited 
to take part, but m.y education had been neglected 
along that line. They had a grand ball on deck in the 
evening. Two of the sailors furnished the music. 
There must have been a general overhauling of trunks, 
for the ladies and gentlemen came out tastefully attired 
for the occasion. While they were exercising them- 



THROUGH THE BRITISH ISLES. 21 

selves, I wrote letters home, expecting to mail them at 
Oueeustowu harbor. 

Saturday, June 2. — Another beautiful day greeted 
us. I finished writing two little poems; one on my 
"Home Across the Sea," and another on "The 
South wark." We sighted quite a number of vessels 
coming out from port. The topic of conversation was, 
"When shall we reach Oueenstown ?" The captain 
said he thought we would arrive there early Sunday 
morning. We were all anxious to see land. Some 
arranged to be on deck very early in the morning. 
Quite a number of the passengers were to land at 

Queenstown. Among the number was Dr. C and 

the two gentlemen traveling with him. I learned that 

Dr. C was one of the most prominent physicians 

of Harrisburg, Pa. We all felt as though we would 
rather not have our circle broken until we reached 
Liverpool. Several friends came to the Bachelor's 
Sanctum and spent the evening with me. When I 
bade them good night, I promised to meet them on 
deck early in the morning to hail the first sight of 
land. 

Sunday, June 3. — I was awakened very early by 
the sound of footsteps on deck. I hurried out of my 
berth and looked out of the porthole, expecting to 
catch a glimpse of the Emerald Isle (not knowing I 
was on the wrong side of the ship to see land), but saw 
nothing but sky and water, and concluded we were 
still out at sea. While I was debating whether or not 
to climb back into my berth, the pin holding the dead- 
light came down on my head with such force as to 
make me think I must be near the land of shellalahs. 



22 A BACHELOR'S RAMBLES 

This encounter with the pin settled the question of the 
second edition of sleep. I decided to go on deck. 
When I did so, I found we were steaming up the 
Queenstown harbor. It is said to be one of the finest 
in the world. I shall never be able to describe my 
feelings as I looked out over the beautiful green fields 
of Old Ireland, stretching out ironi the brow of those 
bold sea cliffs, far away in the distance. There seemed 
to be such a variety of green. The farm-houses dotted 
over that fine stretch of country, with hedge rows sur- 
rounding them, had a fine effect. We all appreciated 
the sight of land after so many days on the briny 
deep. One old man excited the sympathy of those 
around him. As he stood and looked out over his 
native country, the tears ran down his wrinkled cheeks 
and he said : ' ' Fifty years ago I left you ; would that 
I had never done so. I had eighteen uncles and aunts, 
and a number of other relatives when I left ; now I 
shall find the most of them sleeping in the old church- 
yard." His wife called him a baby, and told him to 
hush, but the old man continued to give expression to 
his feelings. We ran up the harbor within sight of 
Queenstown and dropped anchor. By the aid of field 
glasses I had a good view of the city. It was built on 
the side of a beautiful hill. I noticed some very fine 
residences. Just after we anchored, the Campania 
came up the harbor to take on passengers and the mail 
for America. She carried my first epistles from a 
foreign laud to friends far away. It did not seem like 
the Sabbath day, the sailors busy lifting the luggage 
from the hold, and the passengers hurrying to and fro, 
making preparations to leave when the tender came 



THROUGH THE BRITISH ISLES. 23 

out to us. When the strange-looking little craft came 
up alongside of our ship there was a general hand- 
shaking, and regrets expressed at having to part with 
those who did what they could to make the voyage a 
pleasant one. Soon they were on their way to Queens- 
town, and we sailed out of the harbor for Liverpool. 
When the shades of night crept on a heavy fog settled 
down upon us. Our steamer moved cautiously up the 
St. George's Channel. The fog horn sounded its notes 
of warning all through the night. We had no service 
in the morning, but in the evening several of us 
assembled in the saloon and held a song service. We 
were all anxious for the morning to dawn, for that 
meant getting on terra firma. 

Monday, June 4. — When I came out on deck we 
were making our way up the river Mersey, and were 
within a short distance of Liverpool. We had an 
earl}' breakfast and began preparing to land. It 
reminded me of moving day in New Jersey. We 
were interested to know whether the steamer would go 
direct to the docks, and thus avoid the unpleasantness 
of being transferred in the tender, for the wind was 
blowing a gale, and we were being treated to a drench- 
ing rain. But soon they dropped anchor, and we were 
informed that the steamer would not land us at the 
dock. After waiting quite a while for transportation, 
we heard a noise that sounded like the roar of some 
ferocious beast ; as it drew near we found it was the 
whistle of the odd-looking boat called the tender. We 
were transferred to this uninviting looking craft, our 
only protection from the storm being a small awning. 
As we huddled together I said : "I am reminded of 



24 A BACHELOR'S RAMBLES 

chickens taking refuge under an old hen . " I thought 
several times the wind would carry away what little 
shelter we had. Several of the ropes holding it gave 
way. I tied one of them fast and said to "Doctor," 
our Yorkshire friend, "Attend the main sheet, will 
you?" He replied in his broad Yorkshire dialect, 
"I'm no boatswain ; I paid my passage; I'll not lay a 
hand's turn to it." This reply quite amused us, as well 
as some others he made during the short but un- 
comfortable trip from the ship to the Princess Landing. 
I felt like bounding up in the air a few feet when I 
stepped on terra fir ma. We had our baggage taken to 
the custom house, a large building on the wharf. It was 
nicely arranged, so that the) r have very little trouble 
in examining luggage. There are benches extending 
across the building; everything is placed on them, and 
an excellent corps of men, who quite understand their 
business, soon examined everything. I had two small 
satchels, and a telescope filled with books entitled, 
"Songs From Bethany," which I published the year 
previous, a number of the songs being my own 
composition. One of them, entitled, " Saves a Sinner 
Like Me," I afterward found them singing all over 
England, Ireland and Scotland. They requested me 
to open my satchels, and then looked into them. They 
asked me whether or not I had any spirits or tobacco 
concealed in them. I said, " No." I thought if they 
had known what an experience I had when a boy 
with tobacco, they would not have asked that question, 
and the little old "brown jug" and I were not on 
good terms by any means. They inquired what I had 
in the telescope. I informed them. My luggage was 



THROUGH THE BRITISH ISLES. 



25 



then marked O. K., and I had it sent to Lime Street 

Station with that of friend A. M and Mrs. 

D . 





On the Shores of Old England 



OCTOR R- 



and I sallied forth to see 
the city, promising to meet our friends 
at the station in time for the train leav- 
ing at 4 p. m. I was quite surprised 
to find such a large city, and to see 
so many fine business houses. The 
streets were thronged with people 
hurrying to and fro, just as eager for 
the " filthy lucre " as the Americans. 
The city has quite a river front, and 
the docks are a sight worth seeing. We found some 
difficulty in understanding the money. " One-and- 
six," "Two-pence," "Ha'-penny," etc., were Greek 
to us. I said to the Doctor, "when we purchase any- 
thing we will give them a large piece of money and 
trust to their honesty in giving us the correct change." 
I soon became accustomed to it, and managed it very 
nicely. We called at the Y. M. C. A. hall, and met 
with a very cordial reception from the assistant secre- 
tary. We were shown through the building, which is 
a very fine one. I said, "God bless those who have 
given their time and money for an institution of this 
kind, which has been the means of saving a great many 
men from being wrecked by the saloon. ' ' Quite a num- 
ber of young men were availing themselves of its 
privileges. There are quite a number of places of 
interest in Liverpool. So many make a mistake in not 
spending a few days there. I purposed stopping a 



THROUGH THE BRITISH ISLES. 27 

short time prior to leaving for home. We left on the 
4 p. M. train. It seemed very strange, riding in one of 
those English carriages. They are divided into five com- 
partments. The doors open on the side, and the seats 
face each other. Each seat holds five persons. As a rule 
they lock the door of the carriage when the train leaves 
the station . The scenery from Liverpool to Birmingham 
is very picturesque. I enjoyed the ride. We passed 

through quite a number of tunnels. Mr. M and 

family, the D family, and Dr. R left me at 

Derby. They took the train for Nottingham. Mr. 

T and wife were going to Birmingham, and I was 

very glad of it. We arrived at New Street Station at 
7:50. It is said to be the largest railway station in the 
world. It seemed to be an immense affair to me that 

eve. Mr. T kindly showed me the way to New 

street, where I was to take the 'bus for Harborn, a 
suburban town two miles distant. When I bade him 
adieu, I was alone in a strange land. I got two street 
arabs to carry my luggage to the starting point of the 
'bus, a short distance up the street. I saw them 
watching me with a great deal of curiosity, and I said 
to one of them : " Where do you think I am from ?" 
He said : "Ye'r from London." I turned to the other 
boy and said : " And where do you say I am from?" 
He scanned me very closely and said : " Ye'r from 
Ireland." I had been told before leaving home that I 
would pass for a native of the Emerald Isle. I said : 
" No, I am from America." They opened their eyes 
wide and said : " Oh, I'd like to go there." I rode on 
the top of the 'bus through some of the principal 
streets, and concluded I was in no mean city. It was 



28 A BACHELOR'S RAMBLES 

very American-like in its appearance. The city is 
built up nearly to Harborn with very beautiful resi- 
dences. Harborn is situated on a hill overlooking a 
grand stretch of country, and is a neat, pretty sub- 
urban town. It contains a number of elegant resi- 
dences, most of them being the homes of prominent 
business men of Birmingham. It is the native town 
of my friend, Fred P — — , now living in New York, a 
young man whom I have been interested in ever since 
he came to our shores. He was very anxious I should 
visit his old home. His father and mother sent me a 
very cordial invitation to come and make their home 
my headquarters during my sojourn in that country. 
I had some gifts for them from their boy in America, 
and also desired to leave the bulk of my books with 
them until I was ready to go to South Littleton, in 
Worcestershire, and to the adjoining shire, where I 
expected to dispose of them. I therefore thought it 
best to go directly to their home, even though it would 
make me very late in getting to the Convention in 
London. I never shall forget the kind reception they 
gave me when I entered their home. One would have 
thought I was a member of the household returning, 
instead of the tall stranger from America. I at once 
felt I was in the hands of genuine friends, and never 
had the slightest cause to change my mind. I found 
them to be refined, intelligent people, and very highly 
respected in the community in which they lived. The 
family at home consisted of two sons and two daugh- 
ters. One of the sons, a very bright, genial young 
man, graduated in pharmacy during my stay. The 
other son was an interesting boy of eleven years. One 



THROUGH THE BRITISH ISLES. 



29 



of the daughters was an accomplished young lady, one 
who could entertain you at the piano, and also had a 
practical knowledge of domestic duties. The other 
daughter was a very bright little girl of about thirteen 
summers, and one of the most original characters that 

I have met with. I also met with a Mr. S F , 

a fine fellow, holding a good position in one of the 
banks. He was paying attention to the young lady, 
with a fair prospect of some time becoming a member 
of the family. We had supper about 10 o'clock. I 
wondered how I was to manage four meals a day, 
especially roast beef and all the fixings, at so late an 
hour, but soon became accustomed to it, and enjoyed 
it as much as a full-fledged Englishman. They re- 
marked I did not talk like an American. All the 
Americans they had met with said, with a nasal twang, 
" I guess " and " calculate." I began to think about 
the boy's remarks in reference to my coming from Ire- 
land, and they expressing themselves as they did, pos- 
sibly I would not be as much of a stranger as I antici- 
pated. I was very much pleased and interested in the 
affectionate manner in which they bade each other good 
night. I admired their home life, and wished all the 
homes the world over were conducted in like manner. 
Tuesday, June 5. — When I awoke the birds were 
having a grand concert near my window ; not the 
monotonous twittering of sparrows, but birds that 
could strike notes with some music in them. I quite 
enjoyed their songs. I saw comparatively few spar- 
rows. I concluded they had emigrated to America, 
where we would only be too glad to bid them farewell, 
and see them "homeward fly." On the opposite side 



3 o A BACHELOR'S RAMBLES ■ 

of the street stands the Old Harborn Church. It is on 
an elevation of about three feet above the street, with 
a beautiful shaded yard surrounding it, where sleep 

the dead of many centuries. Mr. P informed me 

that there had been a church there for more than eight 
hundred years. The present church was rebuilt during 
the present century, but the tower was the original 
one built in King John's time. I have always had a 
fondness for antiquity, and I expressed a desire to go 
through the church. He is a prominent member of it, 
and was only too glad to show me through . A feeling 
of awe crept over me as I climbed those old stone 
steps, worn by the press of many feet during the past 
eight hundred years. When I reached the top, where 
hang the chimes, some of which have been in use for a 
great number of years, I thought, how often have they 
rung out their glad anthems on festive occasions, and 
tolled the solemn dirge as friends were slowly follow- 
ing some loved one to his quiet resting place in the old 
churchyard. I copied from a tablet in the church, 
near the altar, the name of Rev. Edward Roberts, one 
of the rectors of recent years. One of the inscriptions 
read: "He left a host of friends when he passed to 
the glory land." I was very much impressed with 
the one at the base of the tablet : ' ' He spent his whole 
life in promoting the spiritual and temporal welfare of 
his fellow men." What a grand record to leave! 
More enduring than a huge marble shaft. I heard him 
spoken of as a man who possessed the true spirit of 
Christ, his Master. After looking through that old 
edifice, that seemed sacred to me, we went through the 
"silent city of the dead." While there Mr. Walter 



THROUGH THE BRITISH ISLES. 31 

C 's head gardener came in. He was a good- 
natured looking man, possessed with a large vein of 

humor. Mr. P introduced me as Fred's friend, 

from America. He said, with a merry twinkle in his 
eye and a smile playing over his face, "Ah, indeed; 
so you came from the land where they could only boast 
of one man that never told a lie." I was quite 
amused at the wa} r he spoke of the ' ' Father of our 
Country." He had evidently read the history of little 
George and the hatchet. I said to him, "You are 
putting the rest of us back in the shade." I was 
interested in reading some of the epitaphs on the time- 
worn tombstones. I copied the following one : 

" Here lies beneath this mouldering sod, 
An honest man, the noblest work of God ; 
A father kind, a husband dear; 
Such was the man that lies slumbering here." 

They pointed out a very odd one. A woman had 
buried three husbands, and she was not ashamed to 
let the world know that she had gone to the parson's on 
a matrimonial errand so many times, for she had all 
three of their names on one stone. I smiled when I 
read the epitaph. It was as follows : 

"This turf has drunk a widow's tears ; 
Three of her husbands slumber here." 

Our portly, humorous friend invited us to his house. 
It was formerly the rectory of the church. It was 
more than two hundred years old. It was built of 
stone and was very quaint, especially the interior. 
He also showed us through the grounds of Mr. Walter 
C 's elegant mansion. They were tastefully 



32 A BACHELOR'S RAMBLES 

arranged. I don't think I ever saw any finer. The 
greenhouses, as well as the grounds, contained flowers 
and plants from nearly all parts of the world. It was 
quite interesting to hear our friend describe the different 
species. I saw a piece of surgery that he did. They 
had a pet stork that in some way injured its leg so 
that amputation was necessary. He was equal to 
the emergency, and performed a skilful operation, 
and had also made an artificial leg for the unfortunate 
bird. I was greatly amused, when he gave a shrill 
whistle, to see it come bounding to him, putting the 
wooden leg down as though it meant business . It seemed 
to appreciate the wooden prop. I was afterward shown 
through some parts of this beautiful home. It was 
neatly but richly furnished. In the reception-room was 
an open stairway, at the base of which were two 
pieces of elegant statuary. There was a broad land- 
ing half way up, nicely arranged. The smoking- and 
billiard-rooms lacked nothing along that line. There 
was a miniature museum containing curiosities from 
nearly all parts of the world. I noticed some old 

Indian relics from America. Mr. C has traveled 

extensively. There is a private electric plant on the 
grounds. It is a home that lacks nothing that money 

can purchase to make it comfortable. Mr. C is a 

brother to Mr. R. C , one of England's most illus- 
trious statesmen. In the afternoon I went to Birming- 
ham. I got off the 'bus at the Five Ways, walked 
down Great Colmore street, and called at a home and 
gladdened the heart of the lady by good tidings and 
gifts from dear ones in i^merica. I then found my 
way through the busy streets to the Y. M. C. A. hall. 



THROUGH THE BRITISH ISLES. 33 

The secretary was at the Convention, but I met the 
assistant, a young man well qualified for the position. 
I introduced myself to him, and he at once made me 
feel at home. We had quite a protracted conversation 
on the work in England and America. They have a 
large hall, but it is poorly located. It is in Nedless 
alley, a small thoroughfare running off New street. 
New street is one of the principal business streets, and 
contains a number of large stores. I enjoyed the ride 
on the top of the 'bus back to Harborn. I engaged 
in conversation with an interesting old gentleman. He 
thought I came from Derbyshire. I began to think I 
must be a decided mixture. In the evening Mr. 

P took me to the Harborn Free Reading- Room. 

They have a fine library and periodicals of all kinds. 
There was no excuse for any man in that vicinity not 
storing his mind with good reading matter. We 
passed the Salvation Army barracks, and heard them 
singing Utstily. I suggested we stop for a few minutes, 
and we did so, and heard a remarkable experience 
given by a young lady recently converted. She was 
very intelligent, and expressed herself so. When we 
returned home I was quite ready for the fourth meal. 
I much enjoyed gathering around the family board, 
not simply for the delicious food set before me, but for 

the good social time. Mrs. P 's refined wit I shall 

not soon forget. 




My First Night in London. 



EDNESDAY, June 6.— I arose early 
and began making preparations for 
my trip to London. I confess I 
was rather loth to leave the friends 
who had shown me so much kind- 
ness. They assured me a welcome 
awaited me whenever I chose to 
come to my " English home." I 
went to Birmingham and took the 
10 a. m. express. The guard, as they call him, 
examined our tickets before leaving the station, then 
locked us in, and we were soon speeding along at a 
rapid rate through another beautiful part of the coun- 
try. We stopped only at the principal towns. At 
Northampton a fine looking gentleman and lady 
boarded the train. They came into the same compart- 
ment I was in, she taking a seat beside me, he seating 
himself by the window opposite me. I offered to 
exchange seats with him so that they could be 
together, but he thanked me very politely, and assured 
me he was not particular about changing. They 
carried on a pleasant conversation with each other for 
a little while, then he became absorbed in the daily 
paper. Presently he passed the paper to her, calling 
her attention to an article that had pleased him very 
much, and I laid aside my better training and cast a 
side glance at the article, and saw it was something in 
reference to the Y. M. C. A. Convention. Immedi- 
ately I began to lay a plan to form his acquaintance, 



THROUGH THE BRITISH ISIES. 



35 



which I did by asking what time the train was due in 
London. He very readily gave me the information, and 
asked me if I knew anything about London. I said: 
" No; I have only been in England two days; I am a 
delegate from America to the Y. M. C. A. Conven- 
tion." "Ah, indeed," he replied; "lam a delegate 
from our Association at Northampton, and my wife 
and I are going direct to the Convention, and as you 
are a stranger and know nothing about the, city, you 
are entirely welcome to go with us to the hall." I 
thanked him kindly, and in reply said I did not care to 
intrude on them in any way. They both replied : 
" Not at all ; we would only be too glad to have you 
go with us." I concluded I had fallen into the hands 
of good friends, and thought no further invitation was 
necessary. He gave me a very glowing account of the 
Convention, as he had been there nearly every day. I 
quite regretted that I had not been able to meet with 
them at the commencement. When we arrived at the 
Euston Square Station he secured a hack, and we were 
driven to Exeter Hall. He said to me: "This is 
Jubilee Day, and as the Secretary is busy and you may 
have some trouble in getting your credentials through, 
just give them to me, and I think I can manage them 
for you." So he left his wife and me in the reading- 
room, and in a short time returned, saying that he had 
gotten everything but my ticket for the Jubilee Concert 
and the book containing my checks for dinner, but 
would secure them if possible. I begged him not to 
go to any further trouble, as I had already taken too 
much of his valuable time, and also deprived his wife 
of his company. She said ; " It is a pleasure for me 



36 A BACHELOR'S RAMBLES 

to have my husband do anything he can for you. If 
we should come to America, we would expect the same 
kind of treatment." " Indeed," I replied, " there will 
be one tall American that will see that you receive it, if 
it be within his power." Presently he returned with a 
ticket for the entertainment at the Albert Memorial 
Hall, but the check-books for dinner had all been 
given out. However, he said, he had an extra check 
that he thought I could use. They had erected a tem- 
porary pavilion on the Thames embankment, seating 
comfortably 2,300 persons, and in it dinner was served 
for the delegates during the Convention. His wife 
took dinner at the restaurant connected with Exeter 
Hall, and we went to the pavilion. It was a fine sight 
to see that grand body of Christian men, representing 
nearly every country in the world, partaking of dinner 
together. The tables were nicely arranged, laden with 
tempting food, and the tall Yankee was not long in 
demonstrating to those around him how much he ap- 
preciated that noon-day meal. There were syphons 

filled with various kinds of soft drinks. Mr. J , 

my newly found friend, helped me to a glass of lemon- 
ade, and when I was ready for the second edition I 
thought I could manipulate the syphon without troub- 
ling him. I pressed a little too hard, and instead ol 
me getting the cooling draught, a lady sitting opposite 
had it sprinkled profusely over her new gown. I was 
chagrined, and in a confused manner begged her par- 
don. She made no reply, but gave me a look that had 
no forgiveness in it. That withering look affected my 
appetite some little, but I recovered it sufficiently to 
manage the rest of the courses. 



THROUGH THE BRITISH ISLES. 37 

When we returned to Exeter Hall, Sir George 
Williams, whom the Queen had recently knighted, was 
giving a reception to the delegates. The hall was 
densely packed, but we managed to find seats on the 
platform. There was a certain number of delegates 
appointed from each country on the reception commit- 
tee. Sir George stood there with his face beaming 
with the light of our holy Christianity. The delegates 
came from China, Japan, India, the islands of the sea, 
from the frozen North, and from other countries far 
and near. Each committee bore some gift as a slight 
token of love and esteem for this venerable man who 
had been such a great blessing to the world. I 
thought, as he received those kind remembrances, what 
must be his feelings ? There must have been one 
grand doxology going up from his heart to the Triune 
God for dropping into his mind the thought of gather- 
ing those few young men into that small room at No. 
72 St. Paul's Churchyard, London, to talk and pray 
about more effectual work for their divine Master. 
That little meeting, held fifty years ago, was the nucleus 
of the Young Men's Christian Association. It has 
deepened and widened until to-day, from North to 
South, from East to West, the Y. M. C. A. boys, with 
hearts filled with the same strong love for Christ and 
His cause that characterized those noble young men of 
a half century ago, are still stretching out their hands 
and rescuing those who, but for their effort, might be 
eternally lost. There was a ripple of laughter passed 
over the audience when Mr. B., one of the representa- 
tives of Old Ireland, made his speech, and presented 
the gift. He apologized for the lateness in getting 



38 A BACHELOR'S RAMBLES 

to the meeting, saying it was " owing to the indisposi- 
tion of the Irish Sea." He was well laden with wit. 
When the neat, trim little Japanese came upon the 
platform to express the good wishes of the young men 
of his far-away country, the audience all turned Metho- 
dist, and shouted and waved their handkerchiefs, 
rejoicing in the great fact that in lands where idolatry 
seemed to predominate, young men had been saved by 
the power of Christ, and were banded together to hold 
up the light of the gospel amid the gross darkness of 
those countries. The hymns they used were written in 
several different languages. They sang that old, inspir- 
ing hymn, 

"Blest be the tie that binds 
Our hearts in Christian love." 

I thought as I heard that vast audience joining in 
that sweet song, what but the religion of Jesus could 
thus cement hearts together? I shall carry the sweet 
remembrance of that wonderful meeting with me all 

through my pilgrimage. Mr. J said to me: "I 

shall have to go with my wife on some business, and 
return home on the 5 p. m. train, but before I go, I 
will leave a note with the assistant secretary, for a 
gentleman in my employ, whom I am expecting here 
in a short time. He is coming down to attend the 
grand jubilee concert this evening, and as he is com- 
paratively a stranger in London, and you have not as 
yet secured permanant quarters, I would like you to 
meet him and stop at the same hotel." Thus it was 
arranged that I should be notified by the secretary of 
the arrival of this gentleman. Just as they were 
leaving the hall, their two sons came in; one of them 



THROUGH THE BRITISH ISLES. 



39 



about sixteen years old, the other, nineteen. I was 
introduced to them and found them bright, clean-cut 

lads. • When I bade Mr. J and wife good bye, I 

said to them: "You have built a monument of kind 
deeds to-day, that I shall never take down." While I 
was waiting for the gentleman to put in an appearance, 

Mr. J unexpectedly camQ back, and was quite 

disappointed in finding that his friend had not arrived, 
but just as he was about to leave, he and two of his 
friends came in. I was introduced to them, and Mr. 

J informed him of his plan. He very readily 

assented to it. They were good, sociable fellows, and 
made me feel at home in their presence at once. After 
tea, we went to Charing Cross Station, and took the 
train by the underground railway for South Kensing- 
ton, where the Albert Memorial Hall is situated. Our 
tickets were for different parts of the hall, so when we 
separated at the entrance, the understanding was we 
were to meet at Exeter Hall at the close of the enter- 
tainment. The usher informed me that ray ticket 
called for a seat up toward the dome, so I began the 
journey. When I had climbed several flights of stairs 
and thought surely I had reached the place where I 
could rest my weary frame, I was informed there were 
still higher heights for me to attain. When there 
were no more stairways for me to ascend, I looked 
about for the seat that I thought my ticket entitled me 
to, and found it meant standing up. It is an immense 
circular hall, with a glass domed roof. The interior is 
210 feet in diameter and 137 feet high. There are 
accommodations for 10,000 persons, the orchestra 
holding 1,000 performers. It was a grand sight, as I 



4 o A BACHELOR'S RAMBLES 

looked down from my lofty height. It was beautifully 
illuminated, and packed to its utmost capacity. 
The program was an excellent one: Organ recital, by 
Mr. Wm. Carter; reception of guests, by the President 
and by President of the Jubilee Council ; selections of 
music, by a Swedish male voice choir, many of the 
singers being students of the Upsala University. 
Their sweet songs thrilled that vast audience. The 
encores were tremendous. The gymnastic display- 
was very fine. It was under the direction of Mr. A. 
Alexander. They performed some feats that were 
marvelous. Then there was a selection of sacred 
music by Wm. Carter's choir. Madam Antoinett 
Stirling sang a beautiful solo ; her voice seemed to fill 
every nook and corner of that large hall. There were 
addresses by some very prominent divines. The 
unveiling of the bust of Sir George Williams was very 
interesting. There was an exhibition of lime-light 
views, illustrating the rise and progress of the Young 
Men's Christian Association. I grew weary of having 
to stand, and found my way out and took a Strand 
coach, and went back to Exeter Hall. It was raining 
very hard, and I wondered whether or not the trio 
would think it best to come all the way back to the 
hall. I had my doubts about it. When I went into 
the reading-room there were two gentlemen sitting at a 
table, reading. I asked one of them if he had any 
objection to my joining the circle. He looked up 
with his face packed full of sunshine, and said 
pleasantly: "Not at all; be seated." We at once 
engaged in conversation. He informed me he was a 
delegate from Sterling, Scotland, and gave me his name 



THROUGH THE BRITISH ISLES. 41 

as J. J . I told him I was from America. A look 

of surprise crept over his face. He replied: "I 
thought you were a big Irishman from the north ; 
why, you have the appearance of one." I replied: 
"I have had the same remark made before, sir." I 
told him I had not yet secured lodgings, and was 
expecting to go with three gentlemen when they 
returned from the entertainment. He urged me 
to go with him, for it was raining so hard he did not 
think they would come, and as it was the night of 
the Derby races, he thought it would be difficult for 
me to get a place, for the rooms of many of the 
hotels were engaged ahead on Derby night. I 
thanked him and told him I thought I had better 
wait for them. He invited me to visit him 
when I came to Scotland. A friendship sprang 
up between us that I believe will last through all time, 
and reach out in the great beyond. I began to get 
anxious about the return of my friends, especially when 
a little old man came hurrying into the hall, and, in an 
excited manner, asked the assistant secretary if he 
could tell him where he could get lodging. He had 
been to most of the hotels in that vicinity, he said, and 
found them full. The secretary said: "No; it is 
eleven o'clock, and rather late to look after that matter 
now." I told him that I was without hotel accommo- 
dations, and then gave him the reason. " I can only 
direct you to the Newington Causeway Y. M. C. A. 
hall, where they have lodging rooms," he replied ; 
" you may possibly be accommodated there." He 
told me to go down the Strand to Waterloo Bridge, 
where I could take a coach direct to Newington Cause- 



42 A BACHELOR'S RAMBLES 

way. So I started out in the rain, and was like a ship 
at sea without chart or compass, in the streets of the 
great city of London . The streets were thronged with 
people of every description , most of them coming from 
the theatres in that locality. The omnibusses were 
packed. As I was going over the bridge I ventured to 
ask a young man if he could tell me whether I was 
going in the direction of Newington Causeway ? He 
looked up through his eye-glasses, and in a very tart 
manner replied: " I don't know anything about it." 
I thought I had better pass on, or he might think I 
was after his pocketbook, instead of information. I 
plodded along, weary, wet, and a trifle blue. After I 
had walked a long distance an omnibus drove near the 
curb to let some one out. I hailed the driver and 
asked him if he went near Newington Causeway. He 
informed me that he did. I got in and told the chap to 
notify me on reaching there, and he did so. I stepped 
up to a policeman standing on the corner and asked 
him whether he could tell me where the Young Men's 
Christian Association hall was. " Whose place do you 
mean?" he asked; " Dunn's?" " Oh," I replied, "I 
don't know whether that is the name or not ; I know 
I am about done." " That is the place, I think, you 
are looking for, ' ' pointing to a building on the oppo- 
site side of the street. I hurried across the street and 
pulled the bell. A young man came to the door, rub- 
bing his eyes, apparently two-thirds asleep. I asked 
him if he could accommodate me with a bed. " No," 
he replied ; "all full except one, and I am waiting for 
the young man to come in who is to occupy that; wish 
he'd come, I want to go to bed." I said to him, in a 



THROUGH THE BRITISH ISLES. 43 

pleading tone of voice : "Can't you stow me away 
somewhere out of the storm ?" I related to him how 
I happened to be without a shelter. " I can do noth- 
ing for you," he said, " as the matron has retired, and 
I do not care to disturb her." I inquired if he knew 
of a hotel near by? "No," he replied; "I have not 
been here long." " I have not, either," I said, " and 
never want to be again, under these circumstances," 
and bade him good night. I stepped out in the storm 
again, not knowing where I was going. Old " Big 
Ben," the huge clock at Westminster, had long since 
rung out the hour of twelve. I walked down the 
street as though I was familiar with the locality. I 
knew it was very rough by the characters I met, and I 
did not think it safe to make inquiry of any of them in 
reference to hotels. I walked a long way, until finally 
I met a policeman. I asked him if he could direct me 
to a hotel ? ' ' You are on the wrong side of the river 
for them," he said ; " I do not know of one short of 
London Bridge." I was anxious to know the distance. 
"About a twenty minutes' walk," he informed me. I 
felt like dropping down on the curbstone and sleeping 
with one eye open. There were no coaches running on 
the street, and I was obliged to press my way on, 
though footsore and weary. My umbrella did its best 
to shelter me, but after so long a pelting by the merci- 
less storm, it began to fail me. It seemed to me that 
I had been walking about an hour when I saw, under 
the electric light, a young man with a satchel in his 
hand, talking to a policeman. " There is some one as 
badly off as I am," I thought, so I crossed the street, 
and, as I approached them, heard the uniformed gen- 



44 A BACHELOR'S RAMBLES 

tleman say to him : " I can't tell you; I have sent a 
number of men to both the Bridge and the Waverly 
hotels, and they have failed to get rooms. This is 
Derby night, that means all the hotels are filled ; and 
then, as it is very late, I doubt whether you can find 
accommodations anywhere." Then I stepped up and 
said: "lam in the same fix; can't you tell me of 
some place where I can get in out of the storm. It is 
rather a trying position — here in the streets of this 
great city, at this hour, without any prospect of a 
refuge." I scanned the young man closely, and 
decided that he was a very respectable fellow. He had 
a very troubled look, and I am sure I had. I again 
appealed to the policeman to know whether he could 
not think of some place he could direct me to ? " Oh, 
yes !" he said; "I do know of one just around here 
on Duke street, kept by an Italian." That struck 
terror to me. " They have a bad reputation over in 
our country," I said; "I have only a few coppers, 
and I do not care to lose them." " There is no danger 
of that," he replied. I asked the young man if he 
would go around with me ? ' ' Yes ; let us go and see 
what it is like ; we must have some place to stay," he 
replied. The blue-coated lad offered to take us, so we 
went with him. It was only a short distance, but I 
had a troop of thoughts going through my mind. One 
of them was : Possibly this policeman is in league with 
the Italian, and I am being led into a death-trap. I 
wondered whether I would ever see dear old America 
again, or whether I would be dispatched and cast into 
the Thames, which was flowing near by. When we 
reached ' ' Hotel de Italia ' ' the policeman pulled the 



THROUGH THE BRITISH ISLES. 45 

bell. Presently I heard the sound of footsteps coming 
through the hall. The door was opened rather cau- 
tiously, and the proprietor of this, the only refuge that 
offered itself to us, stood there holding a penny dip in 
his hand, peeping out with an inquiring look. I cast 
my eyes into that long, dark hallway, and asked my- 
self the question whether I had not better take my 
chances on the street. Our uniformed friend asked 
him if he could give us lodging? He said he could, 
and inquired whether we wanted to room together. I 
said, "No." I stepped into the hall and followed the 
man that I regarded with so much suspicion. I had 
not proceeded far before I discovered the young man 
had not come in. I hastened to the door, thinking 
surely I was in the hands of the Philistines. I found 
him in conversation with the policeman, and saw him 
give him a fee for bringing us around. So I stepped 
out and followed suit. Then we went in and took up 
the line of march. I shall never forget that midnight 
parade : the Italian, with his little, flickering torch, on 
the lead, and the tall American — his only weapon an 
umbrella — and the little Englishman, with his carpet- 
bag, bringing up in the rear. As we climbed the stair- 
way, I wondered under what circumstances I should 
come down, and my comrade, judging from his grave 
look, had thoughts similar to mine. We were ushered 
into a room on the second floor, which, to our sur- 
prise, was neatly furnished. Turning to my " partner 
in distress," the proprietor said: " This is your room." 
I bade him good night, and suspiciously followed my 
guide up another flight of stairs. I was shown into a 
fairly respectable room. He lighted the gas, and 



46 A BACHELOR'S RAMBLES 

informed me that the charges were a half crown (about 
62 cents in United States money ) . I was not long in 
settling my bill and getting him off my hands. I had 
all my money with me, so I concluded I had better 
stand guard, as in case I was attacked I would be bet- 
ter prepared to raise an objection to having company 
at so late an hour. I am not a belligerant character, 
but I resolved if the little Italian came along to demand 
my cash, I would lay hold of him and do my best to 
shake out of his head any idea he may have enter- 
tained of laying violent hands on my pocketbook. As 
I surveyed my room, my eyes rested on some small 
pictures in quaint old frames hanging on the wall. As 
I approached them I was greatly surprised to find them 
Bible scenes. One of them was Christ blessing the 
children ; the others were similar. As I gazed on 
those simple little pictures my fears vanished as quickly 
as did those of the hunter who was lost in a forest one 
night, and was compelled to seek lodging at a little 
cabin. The occupants were rough, uncouth-looking 
persons, and he regarded them with suspicion, and 
concluded, like myself, to postpone sleeping until a 
more favorable opportunity. But when the old man 
read the family Bible, and he and his wife knelt in 
prayer, a feeling of security took possession of him, 
and he laid down and slept peacefully. And so I 
reasoned : If this man has such pictures in his home, 
he must, at least, respect the old Book, and may not be 
such a villian as I think him, and I may not, after all, 
be in a den of thieves, but in the home of a Christian. 
I reasoned myself out of my wet clothing into bed. It 
was something after two o'clock when I laid my weary 



THROUGH THE BRITISH ISLES. 



47 



frame down to rest, and was soon unconscious of the 
fact I was on the third floor of an Italian lodging house 
in the great city of London. 





fly Three Weeks in London. 

•HURSDAY, June 7.— When I awoke 
the storm clouds had disappeared and 
the sun was peeping in through the 
old-fashioned windows, seeming to 
congratulate me on getting through 
the eventful night safely. The dele- 
gates were to spend the day at Wind- 
sor Castle, as the closing exercises 
were to be held there. They were to 
go in sections. The one I was to go with left Pad- 
dington Station at S a. m. I had no idea where it was. 
I had to go to Kxeter Hall before taking the train, and 
I knew I was a long distance away, judging from the 
tramp I had the night previous. I found I had no 
time to tarry in what proved to be a very comfortable 
bed. My clothing, which had been drenched during 
my wanderings in the storm , I had spread about the room , 
giving it the appearance of wash-day in ' ' Shanty Town . ' ' 
Alas for me, I found them nearly as moist as when I 
retired. I questioned whether it would not be wiser 
for me to forego the pleasure of the trip to Windsor 
and remain where I was until the last vestige of pneu- 
monia had evaporated from my mud-besprinkled 
garments, for I already had an intimation that hand- 
kerchiefs would be essential articles during the day, 
but I concluded to risk it. I soon found my way 
down from my lofty perch to the hallway. I saw no 
one about but a boy ; he came from the dining-room, 



THROUGH THE BRITISH ISLES. 49 

to let me out. I looked into the little dingy restaurant 
and concluded not to remain for breakfast, as it would 
consume too much time to wait for edge enough on 
my appetite to enjoy a meal there. When my feet 
touched the pavement, I felt like singing a song of 
praise for safe deliverance. I should have liked to 
have seen mv comrade and congratulated him on seeing; 
the light of another day, but my time was limited. I 
learned that only a short distance away I could take an 
omnibus direct to Exeter Hall. Nearly all of them, as 
well as the street cars, or trains as they are styled, 
have seats on top. I took one of the lofty seats and 
enjoyed the ride over the famous London bridge. I 
could scarcely realize I was passing over the old 
bridge that 1 had heard of from childhood. There is 
one continuous mass of people and vehicles pouring 
over it from early dawn until long after the shades of 
night have crept on. I had a grand view of the 
Thames. The embankment presented a fine appear- 
ance. As we l'ode through the crowded streets. I 
wondered how our driver could escape a collision, but 
he understood the art of driving through a very narrow 
space. I was directed by the secretary at the hall how 
to reach Paddington Station. Seated near me in the 
coach were two Germans; one of them wore a Y. M. 
C. A. badge, and was a delegate from an Association 
in the interior of Germany ; he could not speak a word 
of English. The other one said to me in broken Eng- 
lish : ' ' This is a friend of mine ; he is going to 
Windsor on that 8 A. m. train. If we miss it I don't 
know what I shall do with him, for I shall have to go 
back to my business, and he will not be able to get 
4 



5 o A BACHELOR'S RAMBLES 

along by himself." The horses moved very slowly; 
they seemed to feel the weight of years. I knew 
unless the driver applied his whip a little heavier than 
he was doing, we would not make it. Sure enough, 
just as we entered the station the train moved out with 
the delegates. I saw the trouble the man was in and 
said to him : "I think I understand enough of the 
German language to make this young man know he is 
in safe hands, so leave him in my charge." He 
thanked me and gladly resigned him to my care. I 
was informed by one of the guards that our tickets 
would be good on the train leaving an hour later. I 
soon passed out all the German that I knew and we 
had a good, quiet time afterward. The ride to Windsor 
was a very enjoyable one; we passed through some 
very pretty country. The view of Windsor Castle as 
we approached it, was very fine. The town of Wind- 
sor is about twenty-five miles from London. It con- 
tains a population of 12,000 people, including the 
two regiments of soldiers which are always quartered 
there. The Queen, for whom I have the most profound 
respect, believing her to be a grand, good Christian 
woman, granted the request of the committee to visit 
the Castle, Frogmore, the Royal Gardens, the Royal 
Mausoleum, the late Prince Consort's farm, and other 
places of interest, and also gave them permission to 
erect a large pavillion in the Home Park, where the 
entire company were served with a dinner that did 
great credit to the Committee. A short walk from the 
station brought my German responsibility and I to the 
wonderful Castle. Fortunately we met his section at 
the entrance. He gave me a warm shake of the hand, 



THROUGH THE BRITISH ISLES. 51 

which indicated to me that his heart was full of grati- 
tude for the little attention I had given him. I was 
intensely interested in the Albert Memorial Chapel. 
The policeman stood at the entrance and kept us on 
the move. I was so taken with the beauty of it, that 
I fell in line two or three times, and each time taxed 
my eyes to their utmost. History tells us it was 
originally built as a royal mausoleum by Henry VII., 
who, however, was buried at Westminster. It was 
once destroyed by a mob. After remaining in ruins 
for a hundred years, it was reconstructed as a royal 
mausoleum by George III. Queen Victoria has 
restored it in honor of the late Prince Consort. 
The chapel is 68 feet long, by 2S feet wide, and about 
60 feet high. The interior of this chapel is said to be 
one of the finest in the world. It is made of very highly 
polished marbles. The gilt mosaics and the magnifi- 
cent stained glass produce a fine effect. The walls 
contain "pictures in marble," depicting a series of 
Biblical subjects, Moses, Abraham, Daniel, and a num- 
ber of others. In the chancel the subjects are Geth- 
semane, Calvary, and the Entombment. At the east 
end of the chapel is a recumbent figure of the Prince 
Consort ; at the west end is a sarcophagus of the late 
Duke of Albany, in white marble ; in the centre is a 
sarcophagus of the late Duke of Clarence, raised on 
marble steps, containing panels of Mexican onyx. It 
supports a recumbent figure of the Prince. He is said 
to have been a very promising young man, and the 
Queen mourns the loss of her grandson very much. I 
thought, as I lingered there for a few moments, surely 
Death is no respecter of persons ; he enters the royal 



52 A BACHELOR'S RAMBLES 

palace as well as the little hovel to claim his victims. 
I came out and passed through the Norman gateway 
leading to the State departments. The first room we 
entered was the Queen's audience chamber. It was 
hung with gobelin tapestry, representing the story of 
Queen Esther and Mordecai. The paintings on the 
ceiling were magnificent. The presence chamber was 
also hung with fine tapestry, representing a continua- 
tion of the story of Esther. It was made in the time 
of King Charles II. There were a table used at the 
coronation of King George IV., the cabinet of Louis 
XIV., and portrait of Mary, Queen of Scots, with the 
picture of her execution at the base of it, and the por- 
trait of Queen Victoria, in this room. In the guard- 
room was the colossal bust of Nelson, on a pedestal 
cut out of the foremast of the old warship " Victory." 
There is a hole in this pedestal, made by a ball from 
the enemy's gun. The grand reception-room is said to 
be 90 feet long and 34 feet wide, hung with tapestry 
representing the story of Jason and Medea. I admired 
an immense vase, presented to the Queen by the Czar 
of Russia. The throne-room was decorated in blue, 
with a carved ivory throne, presented by a man with a 
name hard to manage, Maharajah, of Travanaco. It 
is a marvelous piece of work. Waterloo chamber, or 
grand dining-room, is 98 feet long, 47 feet wide and 45 
feet high, and decorated in white and gold. I noticed 
portraits of a number of noted officers that took part in 
the great battle of Waterloo. The grand vestibule con- 
tains old armors and banners, some of them very 
ancient. Some of the Queen's jubilee presents were 
in this room. A number of them I recall vividly, one 



THROUGH THE BRITISH ISLES. 



53 



being a model of the Albert Memorial, in solid gold. 
There were also models of two warships in silver. 
These were gifts from Mahrajah of Johore. There 
was a fan of ostrich feathers, several feet high, with 
several smaller ones at each side, made of pea-fowls' 
feathers. It was a very artistic piece of work. There 
was a large silk curtain with a beautifully embroidered 
fowl on it; also one with a deer on, and another with 
a large crane. They were said to be emblems of 
longevity. There was also a block of carved jade on a 
pedestal of rosewood, symbolic of long life, stability 
and immutability. These were gifts from H. I. M., 
Emperor of China. I should like to devote more 
space to the description of this wonderful castle. It 
is said to be one of the largest and finest royal resi- 
dences in the world. I visited the round tower, from 
which, in fine weather, it is said twelve counties can be 
seen. I had a grand view of the country. The 
Thames, winding through the meadows, was charming, 
and the town of Windsor presented a fine picture. I 
became acquainted with three Swedish young men; 
one of them was postmaster at Stockholm ; the others 
were brothers and sons of a prominent professor. 
They were very bright, intelligent fellows, and spoke 
English fairly well. I went with them to the large 
tent and dined with them . On each side of me were 
Swedes, opposite were Norwegians; just below me 
was a Chinaman and a dusky son of India, and as I 
cast my eyes over that immense pavilion, I could see 
men representing nearly every nation on the globe. I 
found the Swedish folk very much interested in 
America, and I was as much so in hearing of their 



54 A BACHELOR'S RAMBLES 

home in the frozen North. In coming out of the park 

from dinner I met a Mr. A from Dayton, Ohio. 

We took a walk through the town, which like most of 
the English towns, was kept in excellent order. I 
then went back to the castle. I stood at the door of 
the old St. George's Chapel and listened to some fine 
singing. I afterward went through this grand edifice. 
The great west window contains six tiers of compart- 
ments, each six feet in height. They contain seventy- 
five figures, including Edward the Confessor, several 
kings, knights and bishops. By going to dinner when 
I did, I missed the opportunity of a visit to Frogmore 
and to the royal gardens and royal farm. I regretted 
it very much, for I met a number of delegates who had 
been there, and they gave me a grand description of it. 
At a given time all the delegates were to assemble at 
the east terrace to be photographed. At the entrance 
leading into these beautiful grounds two men were sta- 
tioned. They called out: "All foreign delegates please 

come this way to be photographed first." Mr. A 

and I fell into line, and were informed that we were not 
foreign delegates. We said, " we are from America." 
"Well," they replied, "we don't consider you foreigners 
— only those from the continent." So we were photo- 
graphed with our English cousins. I met with the 
three gentlemen who were to have met me at Exeter Hall 
the night previous. "You gave me a bitter experience 
by not coming back to the hall," I said. They all ex- 
pressed themselves as being very sorry, and gave as the 
reason for not coming the lateness of the hour and the 
fearful storm. The closing exercises were held under, 
the eaves of the castle. The Queen was at Balmoral, 



THROUGH THE BRITISH ISLES. 55 

Scotland; but as we gathered there I saw the maids 
with their fancy headgear, peeping from the windows. 
The singing was inspiring. Prayer was offered by the 
Rev. Mr. Krumacher, a celebrated German divine, and 
also by Dr. Cuyler, who afterwards gave a very elo- 
quent address. Among the grand things he said was, 
"The memory of this meeting would warm the coldest 
night that Norway would ever know, and its influence 
would belt the entire globe." John Wanamaker also 
gave a fine address. One remark he made was this: "I 
shall never be able to find that word foreigner in my 

dictionary again." I turned to Mr. A audsaid: "I 

rubbed that out a long time ago." I think everyone 
felt that there were no lines drawn between us. And 
especially so when that vast multitude lifted up their 
voices, and sang the grand old doxology. I think as 
each of us slowly wended our way to the railway 
station, and took the train back to London, we felt 
that that meeting had been one of great profit, and we 
would all go back to our various fields of labor with a 
stronger purpose to work more earnestly for the Saviour 

of mankind. Mr. A secured lodging for me in 

the same house at which he was stopping. It was lo- 
cated on Montague street, a pleasant part of the city. 
Friday, June S. — I concluded the best way to see 
the great city of London was on the top of an omnibus. 
So after I went to Upper Bedford street, Russell 
Scruare, to see about a permanent lodging place, I 
climbed to the lofty peak of an omnibus on L,ong Acre 
street, and was delighted with the part of the city we 
passed through. I went to the end of the route, then 
I went into the Victoria station. It seemed to be the 



56 A BACHELOR'S RAMBLES 

starting point of a number of lines of coaches. I had 
a letter of introduction to a family at Stamford Hill, 
one of the suburbs of London. I inquired of one of 
the drivers if any of them ran in that direction. He 
pointed out one that did. I took a seat near the driver, 
who seemed delighted to answer the many questions 
I asked him as we drove through the busy streets for 
more than an hour before reaching our destination. He 
directed me how to reach Fairholt road, where this 
family lived. It was a walk of about six blocks. On 
either side of the street were neat little houses with 
yards in front, some of them tastefully arranged. On 
reaching the house I noticed on the gate the name of 
Hope Lodge. Most of the beautiful cottages in that 
locality had suggestive names. The door-bell was 
answered by a very neat, trim young lady (they styled 
her the maid of the house). I gave her my letter. She 
seemed to know something of my coming, for she at 
once invited me in, and showed me into the nicely 

furnished parlor, and went to call the lady, a Mrs. S , 

a sister of an old friend of mine, Rev. C B , 

in Camden, N.J. Presently a very fine, intelligent 
lady came in and said: "This is Mr. Butler; we have 
been looking for you for more than a week." Then 
the family, consisting of husband and three sons, were 
called in to see the lad fresh from America. I was not long 
in their presence before I found I was in a refined 
Christian home. I felt like adding to this "Hope 
Lodge" the other two names that mean so much, 
namely, Faith and Charity. The questions were 
many that were asked about the dear ones in America, 
whom they had not seen for many long years. They 



THROUGH THE BRITISH ISLES. 57 

insisted on my remaining with them over night. I 
finally consented to do so. A gentleman and his wife 
living near came in and spent the evening. He was 
formerly from Edinburgh, Scotland, and entertained 
us with a discription of that country. After I listened 

to Mr. S describe London, I concluded it would 

take more time to see this interesting city than I had 
expected it would. He informed me that it had a popu- 
lation of over five millions, and began to enumerate the 
most prominent places of interest, until I almost con- 
cluded I would have to postpone sleeping and keep on 
the move continually in order to get through in the 
time I had planned to remain. 

Saturday, June 9.— Mr. S and I started out 

shortly after breakfast, he having a little time to spend 
with me before going to business. The first place we 
visited was Abeney Park Cemetery, where quite a num- 
ber of noted persons are sleeping. He took me to a 
beautiful spot in the cemetery, which was the favorite 
resort of Dr. Isaac Watts, where he wrote most of his 
hymns that have been blessing the world for years. 
I also saw his monument. I copied the following 
from it : "Erected as a testimony of the high esteem of 
his Christian character and valuable writing. ' ' I also 
saw the tomb of Henry Richards , the great ' ' Peace Man , ' ' 
as he was called. Then I stood at the grave of Cath- 
erine Booth, the mother of the Salvation Army. On 
the tombstone were these words : "More than conquer 
through Him that hath loved us." And at the base 
these striking words : "Do you follow Christ?" After 
leaving this beautiful cemetery we rode down to City 
Road Chapel, a spot dear to every Methodist. This 



58 A BACHELOR'S RAMBLES 

old chapel was built by the earnest efforts of the sainted 
John Wesley, and from this, the first Methodist church 
ever built has gone out, an influence that has touched 
the entire world, until to-day men everywhere are com- 
pelled to say the Methodist Church is a great power 
for good. I can never describe the feeling that took 
possession of me as I entered that historical edifice, 
and especially so when I stood in the old-fashioned pul- 
pit where this man of God so often proclaimed the gos- 
pel, and then stood at the altar where he administered 
the sacrament of the Lord's Supper to those w 7 ho are 
now with him in the Kingdom. I also sat in his 
quaint old chair. The design of the moulding around 
the gallery is a serpent coiling around a dove. Mr. 
Wesley's idea was : "As wise as serpents, and as harm- 
less as doves." I sat in Mr. Fletcher's chair, and saw 
the font from his church at Madely. The janitor 
showed us through the vestry. There were an old 
table used by Mr. Wesley, and a clock that told the 
time to those who more than a hundred years have been 
in eternity. I held one of the old pewter collection 
plates that was used at the foundry where Wesley held 
his first service. I also sat on a bench used there. I 
saw a window 7 frame that came from his old home. I 
copied from a silver plate taken from his coffin the words: 
"Johannes Wesley, Obin Do Du Marth, 1791." I saw 
Mrs. Charles Wesley's hymn book, also a book con- 
taining six hymns, in Charles Wesley's own hand- 
writing. I said : "Thank God for inspiring this man 
to write so many sweet songs — especially the one 
sung the world over : 'Jesus, lover of my soul.' " The 
church, within a few years past, has undergone repairs. 



THROUGH THE BRITISH ISLES. 59 

The new columns are of jasper, given by the Metho- 
dist churches of America, North and South Australia, 
Canada and Ireland. We went out in the churchyard 
and stood by the grave of John Wesley. The tomb of 
the great Dr. Adam Clark is close beside it. The 
house in which Wesley died is near the chapel. We 
also visited Bunhill Cemetery, which is on the opposite 
side of the street. The dust of John Bunyan sleeps 
there. I also stood by the grave of Daniel De Foe, 
author of the famous book, "Robinson Crusoe," that 
I read with so much interest when a boy. He was 
born in 1661, and died in 173 1. I then went to St. 
Giles' Church, at Cripple Gate. I saw the monument 
of the illustrious John Milton, and stood near the spot 
where he is buried. I copied from the marble slab on 
the floor the date of his birth and death : " Born, 1608; 
died, 1674." Oliver Cromwell was married in this old 
church. I copied from a tablet the name of Edward 
Harrison; he died 1666. The monument of Rev. John 
Fox, author of " Book of Martyrs," is here also; he 
was once pastor of the church. From there I went to 

St. Bartholomew's, The Great. Mr. S informed me 

it was the oldest church in London ; built in the 
eleventh century. I was wonderfully impressed as I 
walked over those old marble slabs, many of them 
worn down so that it was almost impossible to read the 
name on them. The old columns were eaten by the 
tooth of time. I copied from a tablet the name of F. 
Antoni, died 1641 ; also P. Sydenham, died 1593. The 
date on the altar was 1589. We then went to the great 
meat market. It is said to be the largest in the world. 
Some of the animals I saw hanging there once roamed 



6o A BACHELOR'S RAMBLES 

the praires of America. In passing Great Queen Street 
Wesleyan Chapel I inquired of the janitor if he could 
direct me to a family where I could get a good lodging- 
room, for I failed to get one at Bedford Place. He sent 
me to one of their members, on Southampton row. She 
could not accommodate me, and directed me to a Mrs. 

C , on Bernard street, Russell Square. I secured a 

room there, and it proved to be a very home-like place. 
The lady was a fine Christian woman, with four inter- 
esting children. A gentleman, a native of Calcutta, 
was rooming there. He was highly educated, and 
spoke English very fluently ; he was one of the most 
polite men that I ever met. He was a Brahmin, and 
wrote out their order of worship for me, and also trans- 
lated my hymn, "A Sinner Like Me," into their 
language. 

Sunday, June io.- — I had an engagement with 

Mr. A , the delegate from Dayton, Ohio, to go with 

him to Spurgeon's Tabernacle. We met at the 
Waterloo bridge, and walked to the Tabernacle, 
which is situated near the Elephant and Castle. I 
was reminded of the fact that a few nights previous I 
was wandering out in that direction searching for a 
refuge from the storm. The streets were thronged 
with people making their way to this wonderful place 
of worship. One might have thought the vast majority 
of people living in that vicinity were of the Baptist 
persuasion. It is an immense building, with a seating 
capacity of 6,000; it has three galleries. We were 
given seats near the pulpit, where we had a good view 
of that vast congregation. The precentor stood on the 
platform near the desk and led that multitude of 



THROUGH THE BRITISH ISLES. 61 

people in songs that seemed to be familiar, for it 
appeared to me that from below where I sat, to the 
uppermost seat in the third gallery, everyone joined in 
those hymns of praise which were so inspiring. I 
felt as though heaven and earth were in touch with 
each other. The Rev. Mr. Spurgeon, son of the late 
beloved and widely known Rev. C. H. Spurgeon, 
preached from Psalms xli, i . It was on the subject of 
Christian giving. It was a plain, practical sermon. I 
had heard him when he was visiting America a few 
years previous, at Bethany Presbyterian Church, 
Philadelphia. At the close of the service I felt amply 
paid for my long walk from Russell Square. Mr. 

A had another engagement, so I took a walk down 

to Westminster Abbey. I stood on the Westminster 
bridge and enjoyed the view of the fine buildings on 
each side of the Thames. The House of Parliament, 
a large, massive stone building, stands on the bank, 
looking as though it meant to remain there for 
centuries to come. I took a seat near the Abbey 
and engaged in conversation with a gentleman 
formerly from Birmingham. He informed me that the 
afternoon service at the Abbey commenced at 3 o'clock, 
so I concluded to remain in that locality and attend ser- 
vice at the place of worship that I had read and heard so 
much about. I shall not attempt to describe this 
great edifice now, but will give an outline of it later 
on. I went into the service and found a large congre- 
gation assembled. It was the day set apart once a 
year by all denominations throughout the city for 
taking collections for the various hospitals. The ser- 
vice was sung by one of the finest choirs I ever heard, 



62 A BACHELOR'S RAMBLES 

after which the Dean of Gloucester preached a very- 
able sermon from John xi, 3. If each one that 
listened to that sermon put it into practice, I am 
sure some of the poor of London were benefited. 
On my way from Westminster, just as I reached Tra- 
falgar Square, where stands the monument of Nelson 
(a man whose memory is precious to every son and 
daughter of Old England), I saw the parade of the 
striking cabmen passing. The bands were playing 
lively airs, and the streets had the appearance of a gala 
day instead of the Sabbath. There were several hun- 
dred men in line. On their banners were inscriptions 
of various kinds, giving the spectators some idea of 
their grievances. They were on their way to Hyde 
Park to ventilate themselves on the question of right, 
from their standpoint. I found my way through the 
winding streets without much difficulty, reaching home 
in time for tea. In the evening I went to the Great 
Queen Street Wesleyan Chapel. It was built in 181 7. 
It has two side galleries. The old-fashioned high pul- 
pit stands in front of the chancel, and is nearly on a 
level with the first gallery. At one time it had a very 
large membership, but now it is comparatively small, 
owing to the fact of many of its members moving to differ- 
ent parts of the city. At the close of the service I met 
with a young man, one of the prominent members of 
the church, who invited me to take a walk with him. 
We walked a long distance. He pointed out many 
places of interest. One was Buckingham Palace, the 
Queen's London home. It is a massive building, with 
elegant grounds. I also saw the Prince of Wales' 
home. I concluded the royal family were well cared 



THROUGH THE BRITISH ISLES. 63 

for. The young man gave me his name as W 

S— — , formerly from Yorkshire, and said he was a 
salesman in a wholesale notion store at Cheapside. So 
passed my first Sabbath in the wonderful city of 
London. 

Monday, June n. — London seems to be built 
something in the style of patchwork. I lived in 
Russell Square. A few minutes' walk brought one to 
Bloomsbury Square. Adjoining that was Montague 
Square, which is a beautiful part of the city. Near by 
is Lincolii-ou-Field, and Holborn, and a number of 
other districts. The old city of London has only about 
100,000 inhabitants, and the police wear a little differ- 
ent uniform. All these districts have been pieced on to 
it until it has become the greatest city in the civilized 

world. 1 had to meet Dr. R and Mr. A. M 

and wife, coming from Nottingham, at the St. Pan- 
creas Station in the afternoon. So I spent part of the 
morning in sightseeing from the top of the street-cars. 
I rode to Islington, and was quite taken with the fine 
array of stores. Then I found I had some time on my 
hands before the arrival of the train, so seated myself 
on the tram for a ride to the part of the city called 
Mother Shipton. I was very curious to see what kind 
of a place it was, with such an odd name, but found it 
similar to some other parts I had visited. I was glad 
to see some part of the ship's company, and felt as 

though I was meeting friends of yore when Dr. R 

and Mr. A M and wife stepped from the train. 

Doctor secured a room at the same place I was lodg- 
ing. Then we took a stroll down the Strand, as far as 
Charing Cross. The Strand is quite a thoroughfare. 



64 A BACHELOR'S RAMBLES 

There are some very attractive stores on it, and it is 
generally crowded with pedestrians and vehicles of all 
kinds. I saw a blockade on £he Waterloo bridge which 
extended to the Strand. It was interesting to watch 
the police untangle it. Just by the raising of their 
hand the whole line would either move or stop, as they 
signaled. The Strand presents a gay appearance in 
the evening, as there are a number of places of amuse- 
ment on this street and vicinity. The old Drury Lane 
Theatre, where the celebrated actress, Bell Gwynne, in 
the long-ago, drew the pleasure-seekers by the hun- 
dreds, is a short distance away. 

Tuesday, June 12. — We visited St. George's Catho- 
lic Cathedral, at the corner of L,ambreth and St. 
George's road. The paintings were very attractive. 
We remained a short time at service. We also visited 
the great National Art Gallery, which is near the 
beautiful Trafalgar Square. The different schools of 
art are divided off into sections. In the Old British 
School there was a fine painting, entitled, "The 
Three Graces Decorating a Terminal Figure of 
Hymen," by Joshua Reynolds, in 1792; another, "The 
Watering Place," attracted my attention ; "The Par- 
son's Daughter," by George Romney, 1802, was beau- 
tiful. The artist must have found the sweetest face in 
all the kingdom to paint from. It was one that seemed 
to photograph itself on one's memory. In the French 
School was a landscape which was simply grand ; also, 
"David at the Cave of Adullam," by Gelee ; laud- 
scape, "Abraham and Isaac ; " "A Seaport at Sunset, ' ' 
by Gelee. This was such a striking picture that I 
almost lost sight of the fact that there were hundreds 



THROUGH THE BRITISH ISLES. 65 

of others to be seen. ' ' The Embarkation of the Queen 
of Sheba," by Gelee, was a large, finely executed 
painting. In the Italian School there were : ' ; A View 
of the Grand Canal, Venice," by Canale, 1768 ; 
"Christ and His Disciples at Emmaus," and "The 
Youthful Christ Embracing St. John." I lino- ere( j 
awhile, gazing at these two last mentioned paintings 
with thoughts that soared heavenward. A paintin°- of 
an old woman peeling a pear was quite lifelike; "A 
Winter Scene in Germany," " The Triumph of Julius 
Caesar," " Christ's Agony in the Garden" — a small 
picture, but very fine — by Allegrio, in the year 1234. 
In the School of Venice was the " Adoration of the 
Shepherds." This I thought magnificent. "The 
Baptism of Christ," by Embrian, 1492, was rather an 
odd painting. I also noticed "Music" and "Art," 
both famous paintings, about five feet high and three 
feet wide, done in high colors; two large, handsome 
paintings by Michael Angelo ; one of them, "Christ on 
the Cross," and the other, " Christ being placed in the 
Tomb," attracted my attention. There was also a 
small, peculiar-looking picture, entitled, the " Virgin 
Enthroned," painted in the 15th century. I only 
made a note of one in the Spanish Department: Christ 
standing at the column, tied with a heavy rope, with a 
woman and child near by. I left the gallery, regret- 
ting I could not spend more time there. We made a 
very hurried visit to Guild Hall, where there are a 
number of fine paintings and pieces of statuary. 
Among them were a beautiul statue of Wellesly, Duke 
of Wellington, born 1769, died 1852; a large painting 
of the present Lord Mayor of London, at Windsor 
5 



66 A BACHELOR'S RAMBLES 

Castle ; a painting of the reception of King George III., 
April 23, 1789. 

Wednesday, June 14. — Went to hear the cele- 
brated Dr. Parker, at his large temple at Holborn Via- 
duct. They have service every Wednesday. The temple 
was densely packed. I could only get a seat near the 
door. Dr. Parker is a fine, robust-looking man, and has 
a strong, commanding voice, so that I heard the 
discourse very distinctly. His subject was " Recon- 
ciliation." It was an able sermon, and was listened to 
with rapt attention by that vast audience. A lady 
sang a very affecting solo, entitled: "Bye and Bye." 

I had a letter of introduction to Mr. A , brother of 

a friend of mine at Palmyra, NJ. He was an accountant 
on Gresham street, Cheapside. His partner, who was 
a member of the House of Commons, kindly gave me a 
pass for the Doctor and myself to visit the House 
during the session, so in the afternoon we went to the 
great House of Parliament. I had my overcoat on my 
arm (my overcoat and umbrella were my constant 
companions) '. The tall policeman that stood guard at 
the stairway evidently took me for a dynamiter, for he 
inquired very particularly what I had in my top coat 
pockets. I had two of my singing books, and made 
him feel easy by informing him it was nothing that 
would harm anyone. We were directed to the visitors' 
gallery and had a good view of some of the statesmen 
of Old England. The Speaker of the House sat in a 
large chair, with his wig and long coat on, looking quite 
ancient. There were several bills brought before the 
house, and debated on as earnestly as I had heard our 
American statesmen ventilate themselves on some 



THROUGH THE BRITISH ISLES. 67 

great questions at the Capitol, at Washington, a few 
years ago. A representative of Old Ireland caused a 
roar of laughter by his elean-eut wit. The question 
they were talking on I did not get very clearly, but it 
was something in reference to a danger signal beino- 
placed on the rear of a train on a certain railroad. He 
quickly sprang to his feet and said in his rich brogue : 
"What is the use of that? I see no necessity for it, 
when they only have one train on that road." He 
excited their risibilities several times, but I was unable 
to catch the sharp things he was passing out. I am 

sure I shall always be grateful to Mr. C for his 

kindness in giving me the pass, for I considered it a 
great treat. 

Thursday, June 14. — I visited the Westminster 
Abbey again. History tells us the present edifice, 
which is a grand structure, was built more than 600 
years ago. The monastery was much older. It can 
be traced back from 900'to 1100 years, and when first 
established it stood on an island called Thorney, or 
Thorn Island, between the river Thames and the 
marshes which now form the water of St. James' Park. 
The monks here at first numbered only about twelve, 
but Edward the Confessor, who had his palace close 
by where now stands the House of Parliament, in the 
year 1065 enlarged it and made provision for about 
seventy monks. He erected a building for them, part 
of which is still standing. The old Abbey Church of 
Westminster was the first church in England built in 
the Norman style. When I entered this wonderful 
edifice a feeling of awe crept over me. It seemed like 
a huge sepulchre. Those spacious walls were covered 



68 A BACHELOR'S RAMBLES 

with tablets ; in every nook and corner stood the 
monuments and statuary of England's honored dead, 
as well as some from other countries. As I walked 
over those time-worn stone floors, I was busy with my 
pencil copying the names and epitaphs. I would like 
to be able to devote space enough to spread them out 
before my reader. I visited the tombs of the kings 
and queens. In St. Edwards' Chapel was the tomb of 
Edward the Confessor, who died January 5, 1066 ; 
Queen Editha, wife of Edward, died 1075 ; Queen 
Maud, died 1118 ; Edward I., died 1307. I wandered 
around where sleeps the royal dust of centuries until I 
almost forgot I was living in the nineteenth century. 
I was much interested in the poets' corner. I noticed 
the bust of Eongfellow, our beloved American poet. It 
was placed there by his English admirers. There was a 
beautiful bouquet of fresh cut flowers at the base 
that some one had placed there that morning. I 
was intensely interested in the monument of LacV 
Nightingale, who died in 1734 ; it was of white mar- 
ble. Death is represented as starting from beneath the 
monument and aiming his dart at Lady Elizabeth, who 
shrinks back into her husband's arms. It is said that 
a robber, who broke into the Abbey one night, was so 
terrified by Death's figure in the moonlight that he 
dropped his tools and fled in dismay. The epitaph of 
Sir John Franklin, the Arctic explorer, who lost his 
life, with all his crew, in 1847, when completing the 
Northwest passage, struck me as very good. It was 
by Tennyson. It reads as follows : 

" Not here : the white North has thy bones ; 
And thou, heroic sailor soul, 



THROUGH THE BRITISH ISLES. 69 

Art passing on thy happier voyage now, 
Toward no earthly pole." 

The coronation chairs claimed my attention for 
some time. One, it is said, was made for William's 
and Mary's coronation ; the other for Edward I., to 
enclose the famous stone of Scone. Tradition identi- 
fies this stone with the one that Jacob rested his head 
upon at Bethel. Whether that be true or not, it has 
quite a history connected with it. When I left that 
historic old building I was reminded of a remark I 
heard a colored minister make in his sermon a few years 
ago, namely, "That death is a great leveler." I went 
to Cheapside, a noted business portion of the city. 
I made a hurried visit through the Old Bow Church, 
which is situated there. It is said that all who are 
born within the sound of the bells of this old church 
are called " Cockneys." From there I walked through 
the crowded streets to London Bridge. I asked a 
friend of mine, thoroughly acquainted with the city, 
where that wonderful tide of humanity came from that 
were going to and fro over this great bridge. He in- 
formed me that, independent of the city traffic, which is 
immense, there were hundreds of trains coming into 
the city, and there were a number of stations in the 
vicinity of the bridge, and the people from the trains 
greatly swell the number. It is estimated that 100,000 
pedestrians and 20,000 vehicles cross this bridge daily. 
We went down to St. James' Park, and witnessed a 
fine drill of some of Old England's soldiers. I watched 
them with a great deal of interest. They presented 
quite a fine appearance. Some of them wore white 
coats, others red. They were accompanied by the 



70 A BACHELOR'S RAMBLES 

Grenadier Band, which went through almost as 
thorough a drill as the soldiers. They number seventy- 
five pieces, and discoursed some fine music. They 
gave a solo that amply paid me for the long journey 
there. We then joined the crowd that followed them 
to the Royal Palace grounds, and saw them drill, 
and also saw the Horse Guards go through a very fine 

drill. Mrs. M 's father went with us, to see the 

American consul, to get a pass for us to visit Wool- 
wich Arsenal, but he was not in, so we took a walk 
through that section of the city, which contains a great 
many handsome residences, and came up Regent and 
Oxford streets. There are a great many large and 
attractive stores on these two streets. It is a beautiful 
sight to see these streets illuminated, and I quite 
enjoyed a stroll through them. 

Friday, June 15. — Mr. and Mrs. M went with 

Dr. R and myself to the wonderful Zoological 

Garden. It is beautifully laid out, and contains a 
large collection of animals and birds from all parts of 
the world. We spent several hours there, and I have 
jotted it down as one of the principal places of interest 
in London. We came through the section of the 
city called Rotten Row. It is a very aristocratic 
locality, but one w T ould not think so by the name. We 
also visited the British Museum. There is so much 
to be seen in this great museum that one needs 
plenty of time to see all of interest. I was so 
wonderfully interested that my friends grew weary 
of waiting for me while I inspected the relics of past 
ages. I was interested in a letter written by 
Queen Victoria, when a little girl ; also signatures 



THROUGH THE BRITISH ISLES. 71 

of the different kings and queens and prominent 
men of the past. I purposed coming again and spend- 
ing more time there. I took a walk down the Strand, 
and on my way took the wrong street, and found 
myself in a rough locality. Some of the residents had 
been out making friendly calls and had tipped the 
bottle and had gotten greatly tangled up. I 
hurried out to the Strand as soon as possible. I con- 
cluded I was in a neighborhood where there might be 
a demand for my pocketbook. 

Saturday, June 16. — Doctor R and I rode 

down to St. Martins street; from there to Westminster 
Bridge. There we took one of the little steamers up 
the Thames, to Chelsea, and were transferred to another 
steamer running to the noted Kew Gardens. It was a 
delightful day and the ride up the river was charming. 
We passed some fine residences. I quite admired the 
meadow laud that gave the river a very picturesque 
border. We went through the Gardens ; they cover an 
area of several hundred acres, and are laid out in 
beautiful walks, and contain shrubbery of all kinds, 
and choice plants and flowers. It reminded me of 
some parts of Fairmount Park. From there we 
walked up to Richmond, a short distance away. It is 
a beautiful town, of considerable size. There were 
very many houses that had the appearance of being 
very ancient, but most of the modern resi- 
dences were similar to those in this section of our 
country. The young prince who made his advent into 
this old world during my sojourn in the United King- 
dom, was born at White L,odge, Richmond. We then 
rode on the top of a tram to Kew, and went back to 



72 A BACHELOR'S RAMBLES 

Chelsea on the steamer ; we stopped off there and walked 
through some part of the town. I jotted it down as 
another of London 's beautiful suburban towns. We then 
seated ourselves on the top of an omnibus running direct 
to London Bridge. It was a long ride, but an enjoyable 
one. We passed through Piccadilly, Trafalgar Square, 
Charing Cross, the Strand, Cheapside, and Ludgate 
Circus. We left the coach at the monument and joined 
the multitude going to and fro over London Bridge. 
There is generally some excitement on this wonderful 
thoroughfare. We had not proceeded far on the bridge 
before we discovered a crowd gathered around some 
object of interest. My curiosity led me to investigate 
it. I found it to be a young man kindly caring for a 
very respectable looking young girl, who seemed to be 
suffering from general debility, caused by lifting the 
" little brown jug " too often. We say, " God save our 
young men from intemperance." My observation 
leads me to say, "God save our young women, who 
are in great danger also." A little further on we 
noticed another group of men and boys ; a poor old 
horse had suddenly laid down the burden of life, and 
they were viewing his remains. After going over near 
where I spent my first night in the city, we returned 
and went to the district of Whitechapel . Whitechapel 
road is quite a broad thoroughfare, many of the houses 
qiiite large, but the lanes and alleys leading into it are 
filled with men and women far down in the scale of 
morality. We met a great number of these wretched 
characters marketing. I thought, as I looked at them, 
this is the result of letting the devil take the helm ; he 
is sure to run us on the rocks of sin and wreck us if 



THROUGH THE BRITISH ISLES. 73 

he has the guiding of our craft. I was not surprised 
at the wholesale murders that have been committed 
there. In the evening we took a walk through Red 
Lion street, West Centre, a long, narrow street, con- 
taining a variety of little shops on either side. It was 
rather difficult elbowing our way through the crowded 
thoroughfare. Some of the stores looked as though 
they were built when London was a little village. 

Sunday, June 17. — I had an engagement with Mr. 

W to meet him at the Bow Church, at Cheapside, 

and go with him to St. James' Hall, Piccadilly, 
but I was detained and missed him. I walked 
down to St. Paul's Cathedral, and stepped in 
to service. The singing, like that at Westminster 
Abbey, was excellent. There was assembled a large, 
attentive congregation. The seats were old-fashioned. 
Many of them were old rush-bottomed chairs. All the 
cathedrals I visited were furnished in like manner, and 
all of them had stone floors. I remained only a short 
time, then took a long walk to St. James' Hall. I 
reached there in time to hear Rev. Mark Guy Pearce 
preach a very excellent sermon from the text, " If God 
So Clothed the Grass of the Fields," etc. He illus- 
trated his simple, comprehensive sermon by a blade of 
grass, which he held up before that immense congre- 
gation, and I think every one was impressed, after lis- 
tening to him, with God's great care over us. I stood 
on the corner of a stieet conversing with one of the 
members of his congregation, and as this famous 
preacher and his wife were about to pass us, this gen- 
tleman called to them and I was introduced, and 
walked with them nearly to Russell Square. I found Mr. 



74 A BACHELOR'S RAMBLES 

Pearce a very genial and interesting man. In the after- 
noon I went to the Great Queen Street Mission School, 
on Princess street, a small thoroughfare running off 
Red L,ion street. I was called upon to make an 
address. Many of the children were the offspring of 
poor, degraded people. The little ones listened very 
attentively as I told them of our schools over in the great 
country of America. I met Mr. H S , a mem- 
ber of a large Bible class at the church. He insisted 
that I should take tea with him, and I finally consented 
to do so. I found his family of the good old English 
type. They live at the Freemason's Hall, his father 
having charge of it. I was shown through that beau- 
tiful hall. I saw the handsome chair that the Prince 
of Wales occupies when he attends the lodge. There 
was a collection of regalias, and paraphernalia, and 
curiosities of different kinds, which I was interested in. 
I always found the ' ' latch-string ' ' out for me at that 
home, and regard them as among the number of friends 
I left when I sailed from the shores of Old England. 
In the evening I again went to St. James' Hall and 
heard Rev. Hugh Price Hughes, who also is a noted 
minister of the gospel. Rev. M. G. Pearce and he are 
co-laborers in mission w r ork at Piccadilly. I was sur- 
prised to meet the young man there with whom I had 
the conversation at Westminster. 

Monday, June 18. — I visited the British Museum. 
It was only a short distance from my lodging place. I 
was there as soon as it was open for visitors. It would 
take too much space to give a very elaborate discrip- 
tipn of this interesting place. One could spend days 
there looking at relics of the past ages, and curiosities 



THROUGH THE BRITISH ISLES. 75 

from all parts of the world. I will only give a few 
which I have jotted down. I saw some stones from 
the great temple of Ephesus, A.D. 104, inscribed with 
public documents relating to a bequest of Salutans to 
the town of Ephesus ; also stones from the temple of 
Diana, at Ephesus, inscribed with a decree conferring 
citizenship and other honors, B.C. 300; wall stones 
of Temple Preene, B.C. 240; bust of Periander, about 
B.C. 600, from Villa Montalts, Rome; a bust of 
Demosthenes, born B.C. 383, died B.C. 323; bust 
of Metrodorus, who flourished about B.C. 460 ; a Greek 
inscription from Thessalonica ; a stone with inscriptions, 
from Athens, B.C. 415 ; carved figures from India, repre- 
senting persons in a devotional attitude. A clock made 
by Isaac Habsect, ofStrasburg, 1589, of brass, stood on 
a wooden base. It has figures of ladies carved on brass 
plates, the lower one balancing scales in her hands. It 
is a wonderful piece of mechanism. .Also, a large enam- 
eled plate with the figure of Christ on the cross ; from 
Herring Islands, a trap for catching a kind offish called 
soles ; it was a rope with a curious looking loop. In 
the Fiji Island department, I saw human bones from a 
cannibal feast ; they were fixed in the stump of a tree. 
A curious musical instrument, from the river Niger ; 
it was in the shape of a boat ; also a war trumpet about 
five feet long. I saw mummies that are said, by good 
authority, to be wives of the three Pharaohs. I was so 
intensely interested that I neglected to look after the 
inner man, until about 4P.M. I was looking at a 
very ancient piece of music. I called the attention of a 
young man standing near me to it. In conversation 
with him, he informed me he was from Philadelphia, 



76 A BACHELOR'S RAMBLES 

and gave his name as Dr. K , connected with one 

of the hospitals there. After dining together, we 
parted with a promise to meet at Trafalgar Square on 
Saturday. I was greatly amused at seeing a woman 
driving a small donkey to a miniature cart loaded with 
cabbage; she sat on top of the choice vegetables, guiding 
the animal skilfully through the crowded street. It 
looked like a sewer rat harnessed up. 

Tuesday, June 19. — I took a ride to Peckham 

to call on the brother of Mr. H , of Camden, N. J. 

On my way down Walworth road, I saw a small 
street called East street. It was crowded with people. 
I thought I would see what the attraction was. I 
found it was a curbstone market. They were selling 
articles of every conceivable sort . I was amused at 
them selling fish ; the proprietor of the stand would cut 
off a piece and auction it off by the pennyworth. In 
the evening I took. a long ride to the home of Mrs. 

M 's father, on Ezra street, off Columbia road. 

The old gentleman seemed delighted in showing me 
around that vicinity, which is a fine locality. 
There is a large museum near by. 

Wednesday, June 20. — Mr. M and wife, Dr. 

R and I took a steamer at London Bridge for 

Greenwich. I had a grand view of the shipping of 
London as we passed down the river. Greenwich 
is a very old town, and is packed full of interest. I 
would have liked to have spent the day there. We 
took the train for Woolwich, to visit the arsenal. As 
I passed through the barracks, I was amused at some 
of the raw recruits trying to mount their horses in mili- 
tary style. We went to the Rotunda, where they have 



THROUGH THE BRITISH ISLES. 77 

a number of old guns stored. One old gun was made in 
1525, another in 1 75 1 . A very handsome one was made 
for Napoleon in the 1 7th century. I noticed an old lock 
made in 1666, an old rifle made in 1672, an English 
breech-loader made in 1600. I also saw a brass cannon, 
presented to Her Majesty, Queen Victoria, by Napoleon 
III., 1858; also the original armor of a knight of St. 
John, 1260; fowling gun of James II., 1683; one 
belonging to William III., 1506. The janitor showed 
us a gun made in 1744, in which glass balls were used ; 
they were aimed at the enemy's eyes. There was a 
gun inlaid with ivory; it was a fine piece of work. I 
saw the gun that sunk the "Mary Rose," 1583, after- 
ward raised in 1836. We then went through every 
department of the arsenal, where all the fire- 
arms are made, which is well worth a visit. 
We saw them making some immense cannon. When 
busy they employ 17,000 men. We were informed 
that there were about 15,000 at work there. It 
was a sight when they came out of the yard at 
twelve o'clock for dinner. We took the train for 
Cannon street, reaching home at 7 p. m. 

Thursday, June 21.— Went to Hyde Park, one of 
the finest I have ever seen. It is finely laid out. 
The drives are beautiful. I saw a great many very 
handsome teams. I was convinced, as I saw the 
people driving in such elegant style, that London had a 
great number of wealthy families. We walked through 
the Park to the Albert Memorial ; it is near the Albert 
Memorial Hall ; it was erected to the memory of the late 
Prince Consort ; it consists of a bronzed gilt statue of 
the Prince Consort under a Gothic canopy, and sur- 



78 fc A BACHELOR'S RAMBLES 

mounted by four groups of statuary. We then went to 
South Kensington Museum. There is a fine collection 
of relics and curiosities there. The building is very 
large. I saw the model of the warship Caledonia, 
launched at Plymouth 1 809 ; a model of the Eddystone 
Light, 1 75 7- 1 759. I was interested in the State Barge 
built in the reign of King James I. ; it carried 21 oars, 
and was 63 feet in length ; the cabin was 
decorated with heavy gilt moulding and finished 
in red oak, with red and gilt furniture ; the stern 
was handsomely carved and heavily gilded. It had 
been used as a pleasure boat for the royal family. I 
saw an imitation in wood of a Rhine salmon caught in 
the Rhine January 4, 1868; it weighed 51^2 pounds. 
Also a gondola used at Venice. I was interested in the 
works of a large clock made by Peter Eightfoot, one of 
the resident monks of Gladstonbuty Abbey, 1325. In 
the reign of Queen Elizabeth it was removed to Wells' 
Cathedral, where it was used until about fifty years ago. 
I copied from a tablet under the clock the following : 
" This claims attention, it being the work of one man, 
and its association with Gladstonbury ; it indicates the 
day and night, and age of the moon ; framing and 
wheels wrought in iron and fastened together with 
mortar and terra cotta . ' ' There were also two historic 
bells from Gladstonbury and Wells' Cathedral. We paid 
a hurried visit to the Imperial Institute ; it is a very 
imposing building. The interior is beautiful. In the 
evening, coming from Stamford Hill, we discovered a 
large fire. Itappeared to me that all that part of Eon- 
don was on the move in the direction of it. When we 
reached a certain point we left the car, which was 



THROUGH THE BRITISH ISLES. 79 

blocked, and moved slowly with the crowd. It was a 
large furniture place not far from old City Road Chapel 
that was burning. They considered the Chapel in great 
danger at one time. It was nearly 12 o'clock when 
we reached home. 

Friday, June 22. — I spent most of the day at my 
favorite place, the British Museum. There are so many 
relics there from the towns mentioned in the Bible. I 
purchased a guide book and marked the principal 
objects of interest, instead of using my note book. 
Unfortunately I left it on the other side of Old Ocean, 
If the reader contemplates a trip to London, he should 
not fail to spend several days at the British Museum. 
In the afternoon I took the train at Victoria Station 
for Suydenham, where the wonderful crystal palace is 
situated. I found it was rather late to see very much 
of the palace, so concluded to postpone my visit to it, 
and take a stroll through the town. I found it quite 
a beautiful place ; the " shops " were quite attractive, 
especially on the main street, near the palace. On the 
streets surrounding this great crystal palace are ele- 
gant residences, with grounds tastefully laid out. I 
was informed that it would take me more than one day 
to see all the objects of interest in the palace, and 
judging from the large area of ground it covered, I was 
convinced it would. I went to a restaurant to take 
the edge off my appetite, and just as I entered the door 
I heard a startling scream. I found a lady greatly 
excited. Her daughter was in the act of pouring a 
bucket of hot tea into the reservoir, when she fell from 
the chair, receiving a shower-bath of scalding tea. We 
supposed at first it was very serious, but it proved to 



So A BACHELOR'S RAMBLES 

be otherwise. I managed to get some attention after 
the excitement subsided. On the arrival of the train 
at Victoria Station, I went to Great Queen Street 
Chapel. I began to feel quite at home there. 

Saturday, June 23. — Dr. R and I were to 

to meet Dr. K at Trafalgar Square, and go with 

him to several places of interest. The House of Parlia- 
ment is open on Saturday to the public. We went 
first through the House of Lords, a magnificent part of 
the building. It was richly furnished, and the carv- 
ing on the mouldings was one of the finest pieces of 
work I have ever seen. I greatly admired the beauty 
of the Queen's robing-room. Then I went through 
the House of Commons again. The gentlemen 
who were airing themselves on various questions 
of the day, when I was there before, had 
all "dispersed and wandered far away." They 
hold no session on Saturdays. There are a number of 
fine pieces of statuary of some of England's honored 
statemen, placed about in different parts of the House; 
the greater part, however, are in the main hallway. 
We then went to the old St. Margaret's Church. It is 
beside the Westminster. This is a very historic church. 
The Cavendish memorial window is beautiful ; in it 
different parts of the Bible are represented in bright 
colors. "My flesh shall rest in hope," this is illus- 
trated by the taking of Christ from thecross. " Peace 
be still," by Jesus appearing to His disciples on the 
sea. It was a masterpiece of work, and greatly to be 
admired. We sat in the pew set apart for Americans. 
It had the American flag inserted in each arm of the 
seat, with these words : " For visitors from the United 



THROUGH THE BRITISH ISLES. 81 

States." The janitor told us that General Grant sat 
in that seat when visiting London several years ago. 
The janitor invited us to remain to a wedding that was 
to take place. So we seated ourselves in the seat 
for Americans of low as well as of high degree ; but just 
before the wedding party arrived we were informed that 
it was against the rules for us to remain — not being in- 
vited guests. The janitor said to us, as we were leav- 
ing : ' ' There is to be a grand wedding here this after- 
noon, and I am to attend the door, and I will see that 
you get in, if you desire to." But so far as I was con- 
cerned, I had seen so many launch out on the " sea of 
matrimony " that I thought I could find something 
that would interest me more than that. We rode 

up to Chauncey lane. There Dr. R left us. 

We went to St. Paul's Cathedral. History tells us that 
this is the third cathedral built on this spot. The first 
one was built A.D. 607, and was destroyed by fire in 
1087 ; it was rebuilt, and destroyed again by the great 
fire in 1662. After that it was rebuilt by Christopher 
Wren, the corner stone being laid in 1675. The build- 
ing opened for divine service in 1697. The interior 
length is 502 feet, exclusive of projection of portico, 
from north to south, including the semicircular por- 
ticos, 244 feet. The western front is 177 feet; the 
diameter of drum beneath the dome is 1 1 2 feet ; the 
dome itself is 102 feet ; the height of the central aisle 
is 89 feet ; the total height from the pavement of the 
churchyard to the top of the cross is 370 feet. I have 
given these dimensions as I found them inthe"St. 
Paul's Guide. ' ' It is a wonderful structure. There are 
a great number of busts, statuary and tablets of promi- 
6 



82 A BACHELOR'S RAMBLES 

nent persons, who have passed away during the past 
centuries. On the altar, which is handsome, is a repre- 
sentation of Christ on the cross, with cherubs around 
Him. Near the altar rail is a monument of Reginald 
Heber, D.D., late Bishop of Calcutta, who died in 
1826. The Vice Admiral Horatio Viscount Nelson, 
H.B., must have immortalized himself with the 
English nation, judging from the inscription which I 
copied ; it was as follows : ' ' To record his splendid 
and unparalleled achievements during a life spent in 
the service of his country, and terminated in the moment 
of victory, by a glorious death, in the memorable 
action off Cape Trafalgar, on October 21, 1805." He 
was born in 1758. There were tablets with records 
of officers and privates who died from wounds and 
diseases during the war with Russia, 1 855-1 856. 
There is a tablet to Major Charles George Gordon, 
' ' who at all times gave his strength and substance to the 
poor, his sympathy to the suffering, and his heart to 
God." The monument to William Viscount Melbourne, 
Prime Minister in the last four years of King William 
IV. 's reign, and the first four of Queen Victoria's, born 
1779, died 1848, is an arch representing gates, with 
statues of two angels on each side ; over the door are 
these words : ' ' Through the gate of death we pass to 
our joyful resurrection." I saw the tombs of Nelson 
and Duke of Wellington. I also saw the funeral car 
of Wellington ; it is said to be made of the different 
cannon captured in the many battles he was engaged 
in ; it is a wonderful piece of work. From the crypt 
we went to the whispering dome. I could hear the 
attendant speaking distinctly, although some distance 



THROUGH THE BRITISH ISLES. 83 

away. Out on the balcony, we had a grand view of the 
city. I had some idea of the immense spaceit occupied. 
Don't fail to visit old St. Paul when in London. 
From there we visited the Tower of Loudon. I shall 
give only a brief description of it, although it is full of 
interest. The guide book informs us that it owes its 
origin to the Romans, so it dates far back into the 
past. In the crown-room are some costly old relics : 
Knight of Garter, a fine emblem given by the corpora- 
tion ; St. Edward's crown ; crown of King James II.; 
the imperial state crown of Queen Victoria is a sceptre 
with cross studded with diamonds ; the Prince of 
Wales' crown, neat and plain ; the crown of the consort 
of King James II. is small, but handsome ; a cross of 
diamonds. All the crowns and smaller relics are kept 
in a large glass case with an iron railing encircling it. 
Inside the railing was a desk belonging to King William 
and Mary ; an elegant gold sacramental falcon ; a hand- 
some christening fount about three feet high and two feet 
wide. In another department I saw the block that Lord 
Lovat was beheaded on and the axe that was used ; also 
instruments of torture such as thumb-screws, etc. ; 
also an old saddle, embroidered with gold, belonging to 
the Duke of York ; armor of Charles II. when a 
boy ; an imitation of Prince of Wales' wedding cake ; it 
was a huge affair. I stood on the spot where Queen Anne 
Boylen and Lady Jane Grey were executed. Afterward 
I went into the department once used as a prison where 
these two women, with a number of prominent persons 
far back in the past, were imprisoned. The old walls 
were covered with inscriptions. I purchased a book 
with some of the inscriptions in. I will give a few. 



84 A BACHELOR'S RAMBLES 

Some of the words are spelled in queer style, " Authur 
Pool, I. H. S. A passage perillus maketh 8 a port pleas- 
ant, A.D., 156S ;" " Charles Bailey, Be frend to one, 
be ennemy" to none, Anno. 1571-ioSept. The most 
unhapy man is he that is not pacient in adversities for 
men are not killed with adversities, but with y e im- 
pacience which they suffer." Another, " Philip 
Howard Earl, of Arundel. It is a reproach to be bound 
in the cause of sin, but to sustain the bonds of prison 
for the sake of Christ is the greatest glory ; ' ' this was 
was written on the old wall, May 1587. The Tower is 
open on Saturdays ior visitors, free of charge. From 
the tower we took a walk down along the Thames em- 
bankment to Waterloo bridge. 

Sunday, June 24. — Walked over to City Road 
Chapel to the service. They use the ritual ; it was much 
like the low Episcopal service, and was very impressive. 
The sermon was such that one could easily follow the 
thread of it. The choir was quite large and contained 
some fine voices. The organist is the grandson of the 
sainted Charles Wesley. I had the pleasure of shaking 
his hand at the close of the services. I spoke to him of 
the great influence that his grandfather and great 
uncle, John Wesley, exerted, their work for the Master 
being felt all over America. He pressed my hand 
warmly and replied : "I am glad of it. " In the even- 
ing I went to Liverpool Road Wesleyan Church. After 
service at the church quite a number of the members 
assembled in a small street just off St. Pancreas Road 
and held services. They had a small organ and two of 
the young men had cornets, and when they all began to 
sing the crowd soon gathered about them . One man be- 



THROUGH THE BRITISH ISLES. 85 

gan to exhort the unsaved to come to the Saviour of all 
mankind. When the crowd grew restless, they charmed 
them with some sweet songs again. I was delighted 
with the service. After it closed several of the young 
men walked down home with me. I found them earnest 
Christians. 





En=Route for Scotland. 

ONDAY, June 25. — I arose early and 
began making preparations to leave 
the city where I had spent three 
weeks, the recollections of which 
will not soon be brushed from mem- 
ory's wall. I went to the great Bank 
of England to get a note changed. 
It was well worth the long walk I 
took to get there. It is quite an 
institution . The gold coins piled up made one feel a little 
envious. I called to see my friend W , at Cheap- 
side. He said he had written to his father that I would 
break my journey at York and go to Brompton and re- 
main with them over night, and he insisted on me doing 
so. With a great many regrets I left London at 5 p. m. 
Dr. R. left on the steamer for Edinburgh, Scot- 
land. I passed through a number of fine towns, one of 
them being Bedford, where the noted John Bunyan 
wrote his widely-known book, " Pilgrim's Progress." 
Two ladies got in the car there and I engaged in con- 
versation with them. They gave me a little history of 
the old town. I arrived at Birmingham at 8:30, rode 
out to Harborn, and received a very cordial welcome at 
my English home. 

Tuesday, June 26. — Eeft Birmingham for the old 
city of York ; passed through the large cities of Derby, 
Chesterfield, and Sheffield, arriving at York at 3 p. m. 
This was one of the most interesting cities I visited. 



THROUGH THE BRITISH ISLES. 87 

History tells us that the Romans occupied this 
site for more than three centuries. The Emperor 
Severus is said to have died in York in 211, 
A.D., also Constantius, in 306, A.D. Henry II. 
held his first parliament here in 1160. March 1190, 
several hundred Jews sacrificed their lives to 
popular hatred. The first church was built for 
Christian worship in the year 627, and stood where the 
large and finely built Yorkminster now stands. This 
Cathedral was completed 1472. I was charmed with 
its beauty. Surely back in those days they had fine 
ideas of architectural beauty. The old walls still sur- 
round the city. It is said they were originally built by 
the Romans. I walked around them and had a good 
view of the city. As I walked through the old streets, 
and saw so many quaint looking buildings, I was so 
taken with it that I decided to spend another day there. 
I met an old lady on the street. She was distributing 
tracts . I stopped and had quite a long conversation with 
her. She gave me some valuable information in refer- 
ence to the city. I understood from a gentleman that I 
afterward met, she was in that locality-every day giving 
tracts to all the passersby. Sometimes persons treated 
her rudely, but if a soldier lad was passing at the time 
he would step in between her and the one illtreating 
her and say to him : " Don't you hurt that old gal." 
He said she had the profound respect of the soldiers . 
I saw a great number of the redcoats on the streets. 
Took the train for Brompton, some twenty miles away, 

arriving at 6:30, and found the family of my friend W 

looking for me. They gave me a welcome that I shall 
not soon forget. The family at home consisted of father, 



88 A BACHELOR'S RAMBLES 

mother, two daughters and three sons. They were a 
very musical family, and I was quite charmed with their 
singing. The old gentleman was a fine basso singer, 
and both the young ladies played the piano finely. My 
autoharp quite interested them, as they had never .seen 
one before. They kept me up singing and chatting 
until long after 12 o'clock. 

Wednesday, June 27. — I was quite surprised when 

Mrs. W informed me that she had never been to the 

city of York, only twenty miles away, notwithstanding 
she was born in that locality. I told them I was so 
delighted with the old city I intended to go back and 
spend another day there. They insisted on my return- 
ing and spending another night with them. One of the 
young men walked to North Allerton, a distance of two 
miles, with me. Like the town of Brompton, it is very 
old. It was market day and I quite enjoyed the sight 
of the market people with their produce spread out on 
the street and in the market house, that had stood the 
storms of long, long years. Went back to York, 
and while standing on the old bridge spanning the river 
Ouse, I inquired of a young man near me what old 
building that was near the bridge. He informed me 
it was Clifford's Tower, where, in the original tower, 
2,000 Jews were massacred. He gained my confidence, 
and I walked with him around the old walls, passed 
through several old gates ; he pointed out to me the 
King James' old palace, now used as a blind asylum, 
and I went through it. One of the little blind boys acted 
as guide. He took me through each department, and 
would stop for a few minutes to get his bearings and 
then proceed. I was very much interested in him as 



THROUGH THE BRITISH ISLES. 89 

well as in the institution. I passed through an old 
street called the Shambles ; the houses were very- 
old, built so that each floor projected beyond the 
lower one, making their roofs nearly meet with 
those on the opposite side of the street. I found 
myself stopping and gazing about like a boy making 
his first visit to the city. I then went into the court- 
yard of King William's old palace, now used for the 
parish poor. I thought, what a change ! Once the home 
of royalty, now the abode of the lowly. From there I 
went to Foss Gate, to the Merchant's Adventurer Hall. 
The lady having charge said, as she took me through : 
' ' The Merchants of York have been meeting here for 
800 years, and it is still used as a business room." 
There is an old chapel connected with it that 
was built in 141 1, and pewed in 1663. They were re- 
pairing it. I gathered up a wooden pin from one of 
the old rafters as a relic. She remarked: "Here is 
where the merchants attend service before going to sell 
their wares." I replied : " I think most of them the 
world over sell their wares, and, if they have time, then 
say their prayers." I left this charming old city re- 
gretting I could not spend more time there, and returned 
to Brompton and spent another evening with that fine 
old Yorkshire family, whom I shall always remember 
very kindly. 

Thursday, June 28. — L,eft for North Allerton at 
10:30 ; from there was booked, as they style it, for 
Edinburgh, Scotland. I broke my journey at Durham. 
The town is very ancient. The Cathedral, one of the 
largest and finest in England, stands on a very high 
hill overlooking the town. A beautiful river winds its 



9 o A BACHELOR'S RAMBLES 

way through a very picturesque valley. There is an 
old castle near the Cathedral which was built in 1093, 
by William, the Conqueror. There were a great many 
visitors, as there was a Sunday school excursion from a 
town on the borders of Scotland. I went through the 
Cathedral and then up in the dome, and had a grand 
view of the surrounding country, and was wonderfully 
pleased with the scenery. Left early in the afternoon 
for Newcastle-011-Tyne. It is a great ship-building 
town, but not much of interest to the sightseer is there. 
I rode on top of a tram through a fine part of the city. 
It was a general holiday, and everyone seemed bent on 
having a good time. There had been a race at the fair 
grounds, and as I was going to the station I met a 
great throng of people returning from it. I left for 
Edinburgh, glad to be on the move again. I was 
interested in the old walls at Berick, on the coast. A 
gentleman informed me that, centuries ago, a great 
many battles had been fought there. It is a large town 
in Scotland, just over the line. The scenery was fine. 
The cattle, grazing on the sides of the green hills, made 
a beautiful picture. I arrived in Edinburgh at 10 p. 
m. and found my way to the Y. M. C. A. hall, and 

learned the whereabouts of Dr. R . A young man 

kindly took me to the hotel where the Doctor had 
secured a good room for me. 

Friday, June 29. — Edinburgh is divided by abroad 
valley of gardens. Princess street, one of the principal 
thoroughfares, is beautiful ; it is terraced on the new 
side of the city, and contains some very large, attrac- 
tive stores. On the opposite side of the valley is the 
famous Edinburgh Castle, perched on a rock 300 feet 



THROUGH THE BRITISH ISLES. 91 

above the surrounding valley and 445 feet above sea 
level ; the old part of the city slopes down from this 
rock. I have always heard that Edinburgh is one of 
the finest cities in the world, being referred to as the 
" Modern Athens. As I rode on the top of the tram 
along Princess street and looked down on those gar- 
dens, so tastefully arranged in the valley below, and 
then at the old castle, standing far above the city on 
that huge rock, I concluded that, of all the cities I had 
visited, its beauty could not be excelled. I went to 
the house that John Knox lived in from 1559-72, and 
in which he died. A quaint old inscription is on the 
outside of the house : " L,ofe. God. above- al and your 
neichtbour as yi self. ' ' We went down through Cannon 
Gate, which is called the Whitechapel of Edinburgh. 
A great many little closes (or courts, as we would call 
them) lead from this street, whose entrances are 
quite narrow, but the enclosures a trifle wider, each 
containing several houses, wretched looking places, as 
are also many of the occupants. At that time the 
smallpox was quite prevalent in that section of the 
city, and I hesitated about taking the risk of going 

through. Dr. R said he thought there was no 

danger, but, as I saw the red flags hanging from the 
windows in all directions, I passed along rather hur- 
riedly. A few minutes' walk brought us to Holyrood 
Palace and the Abbey, where the attendant informed 
us it would be opened for visitors an hour later. In 
looking up the history of this place, I learned that the 
Abbey was founded by King David I. The palace was 
begun by Charles IV., and burned by the English in 
1544, and again by Cromwell's soldiers in 1650. Queen 



92 A BACHELOR'S RAMBLES 

Mary spent, most of her time here. As we stood by 
the gate, the room that Rizzio was assassinated in 
while at supper with Mary was pointed out to us. The 
deed was done by Darnley, Ruthven and others in 
1566. We was quite anxious to pay a visit to this his- 
toric place, but our time was limited. We went to the 
drill -ground at the base of the hill, which is 822 feet 
high, on the top of which is Arthur's famous Seat. 
A short distance away were the ruins of St. An- 
thony's Chapel. We stood and gazed very wistfully 
at the top of Calton Hill and Arthur's Seat, but knew 
it meant too much labor to reach the summit. We 
witnessed a fine military display. The cavalrymen 
handled their horses skilfully, showing excellent train- 
ing ; the Scottish Highlanders, with their plaid kilts, 
were quite attractive, and went through a very inter- 
esting drill. Several of them were detailed to go up 
the mountain — as I styled it — and when some distance 
away sounded their bugles, and a number of their 
comrades answered the call and ran up the side of the 
mountain as dexterously as goats. The baud discoursed 
some fine old Scotch airs, that quite charmed me. We 
visited the Edinburgh Castle, which was considered a 
stronghold prior to the days of gunpowder, but which 
is now used as an infantry barracks for 1,200 men, and 
has an arsenal containing 30,000 stands of arms. We 
saw the State Prison, where the adherents of the 
Stuarts were confined, and passed through the old 
palace yard, then into the old crown-room, where are 
kept the regalias, or, as they are sometimes called, the 
honors of Scotland. The crown of Robert Bruce, 
with which Charles II. was crowned, is beautiful, as 



THROUGH THE BRITISH ISLES. 93 

is also the sceptre. I was greatly interested in many- 
other relics that I saw there. My notes were hurriedly 
taken as I passed through. Queen Mary's bed-room 
was a small apartment ; in this room her son, James 
VI., was born. I had a good view of the country 
from the little window, from which it is said-the infant 
Prince James was lowered in a basket to his mother's 
friends, to be educated in their faith. This portion of 
the castle was built by Queen Mary in 1565, and is 
on the edge of a rock 300 feet above the valley. 
I was quite interested in Queen Margaret's old church. 
It is on the highest part of the castle, and is the oldest 
building in Edinburgh, having been built in 1050. 
For many years it was used as a magazine, but, 
through the efforts of Dr. Daniel Wilson, it was restored 
in 1853. It i s quite a small edifice, and contains a 
beautiful little window presented by Queen Victoria. 
I stopped at the barracks of the Scottish Guards, which 
certainly are comfortable quarters. I engaged in con- 
versation with one of the soldiers, who said : " I have 
just returned from a visit home, and feel unfitted for 
duty. I shall not be able to settle down to this kind 
of life for several days. A fellow feels a ' wee bit ' 
bad in leaving the folks, especially mother." I 
became very much interested in this young man, and 
passed him out a huge bundle of sympathy, and gave 
him one of my hymn books and called his attention to 
the hymn, "A Sinner Dike Me." He said: " I will 
read it, and keep it to remember you by." On the 
bomb battery stands Mons Meg, a very large gun, 
made at Mons, Belgium, 1476. From this battery I 
had a grand view of the city and surrounding country. 



94 ' A BACHELOR'S RAMBLES 

Edinburgh has a population of 345,000, suburbs in- 
cluded. We came down High street, once considered 
one of the finest streets in Europe, but time has robbed 
it of its beauty, and a great many of the old houses 
are crumbling with age. We visited Natural Art Gal- 
lery, which contains a number of fine paintings of cele- 
brated artists. The statue of Burns is here. In the 
museum are a number of very old relics, among them 
being John Knox's pulpit, from St. Giles' Church. 
Scott's handsome monument stands near the Art Gal- 
lery. Under the canopy is a statue of Sir Walter 
Scott. It is quite an ornament to Princess street. 
Some distance away is the monument of Robert Burns — 
but these two men would live in the memories of lovers 
of their works without a marble shaft. We went by 
trim to Leith, and from there by steamer to the 
wonderful Firth Bridge. My guide book gives its 
dimensions as being 1 * 2 miles long ; the height of 
the cantilevers, 360 feet; length of central girders, 350 
feet; length of large spans, 1,710 feet ; headway above 
high water mark at centre of spans, 150 feet ; the 
weight of iron and steel used, 54,000 tons. There 
were 500 accidents occurred during the seven years 
they were building it ; 57 of them ending fatally. 
Our little steamer passed under the bridge and 
landed at South Queen's Ferry, a short distance below. 
We remained on the steamer and returned to Leith 
again. We took a trip to Portabella, a watering place a 
few miles from Edinbugh. It is quite a nice little 
seaside resort. They have small cars in which the 
bathers change their clothing. Horses are attached 
to the cars and they are taken out a certain distance 



THROUGH THE BRITISH ISLES. 



95 



and the bathers step from the cars into the surf. The 
ladies and gentlemen are not allowed to bathe together. 
One of the bathing masters told me they were not 
permitted to come within a certain distance of each 
other. I gave him a discription of an American 
seaside resort, where hundreds of men, women and 
children bathe together, and it is considered within 
the bounds of propriety. 

Saturday, June 30. — Rode from Princess street 
through one of the finest parts of the city to the 
Botanical Gardens. As my time was limited, I could 
only hurriedly cast my eyes about, but saw 
enough to convince me that any admirer of plants and 
flowers could spend a day there nicely. On my return 
called on the secretary of the Y. M. C. A., and was 
much pleased with him; he spoke of their good 
work, but remarked that if the young men were more 
actively engaged in Christian work, they would not 
need so much else to interest them. They have a 

finely equipped hall. Dr. R left for Glasgow in 

the morning, and I left at 1:20 for Sterling, to visit the 
gentleman I met the first night I spent in London. 
We passed over the Forth bridge and through Alloa, a 
town of considerable size, having the appearance of 
being quite a business place. The country between 
Edinburgh and Sterling is very pretty. We arrived 
at 3 p. m., and I found my way to the home of Mr. 

J • He and his good wife gave me a reception 

that assured me I was welcome He had a trip 
arranged for himself and I, so after partaking of some 
refreshments, we went by train to Callender, which is 
a pleasant little town, then walked a distance of three 



96 A BACHELOR'S RAMBLES 

miles along the Pass of Leny, to Loch Lubnaig, a 
beautiful sheet of water about 5 miles long and i mile 
broad. It is of considerable depth, but the water is so 
clear we could see the pebbles at the bottom. It 
abounds with fish ; I saw a number of them exercising 
their fins. On the opposite side stands Ben Ledi, a 
grand old mountain, covered with verdure, lifting its 
head above the valley to the great height of 2,871 feet. 
The scenery was subline and I drank it in with a relish, 

and Mr. J , who is a great lover of nature and of 

poetry also, informed me that he never tired of visiting 
that romantic spot. He also remarked that this was 
one of the places from which Sir Walter Scott received 
his inspirations when he wrote some of his beautiful 
poems. I am not surprised that lovers of poetry 
are charmed with his beautiful word-pictures taken 
from this beautiful spot. Near the Falls of Leny is 
the churchyard and chapel of St. Bride, spoken of in 
the "Lady of the Lake." I copied from the only 
remaining tombstone the name of P. McKinley, died 
1825. We passed a number of the old thatched roofed 
cottages, some of them with huge rosebushes climbing 
up their sides. They had an air of neatness and com- 
fort about them, and seemed quite homelike. I was 
reminded of the poem of Robert Burns, entitled "The 
Cotter's Saturday Night." When we were returning 
from Callender there was a very poor woman with two 
small children in the compartment with us. She had 
walked from her home in the highlands, a distance of 
sixteen miles, and begged money at Callender to pay 
her fare to the Bridge of Allen. She was going to the 
military camp at Cambusbarron, two miles from Ster- 



THROUGH THE BRITISH ISLES. 97 
ling, to see her husband. My friend, Mr. J , 



whose heart seemed to be as large as the world, inter- 
ested himself in her, and gave her a ticket to complete 
her journey to Sterling, and then called the attention 
of all those in the compartment to her destitute con- 
dition. I was wonderfully pleased with the prompt- 
ness with which each one responded. Some of them 
were men who were rough and profane, but had 
hearts full of sympathy. I quite admired those warm- 
hearted Scotchmen, and am sure, as the shillings and 
sixpences were passed to her, the look of gratitude 
which she gave to those who had shown her this kind- 
ness more than repaid them for the little sacrifice they 
had made. 

Sunday, July 1. — Mr. J had arranged to go 

to Cambusbarron, a little village two miles from Ster- 
ling, to attend the joint meeting of the Young Men's 
and Young Women's Christian Association. It was 
quite an enjoyable walk over the hills. On reaching the 
hall we found a large audience assembled. I had only 
been seated a few minutes before they began singing 
my old hymn, "Saves a Poor Sinner Like Me." I 
can never describe my feelings as I listened to them 
singing it as heartily as I ever heard it sung in 
America. I thought, is it possible the piece which I 
wrote a number of years ago, and which I 
did not think would get beyond my own little city, has 
found its way over into the highlands of Scotland ? I 
thanked God for inspiring me to write those words, 
which have been such a blessing to the world. I 
was called on to give them a short address, which I 
did, and at the close was invited by the superintendent 
7 



9 8 A BACHELOR'S RAMBLES 

of the Sunday school to address the convention, which 

met previous to the regular session. Mr. J 's 

parents lived in the village, so I was taken through the 
quaint old streets to their cottage. The family at 
home consisted of father and mother, one daughter, 
(a young lady, ) and two sons ; one of them a young man, 
the other a lad of about fifteen years. The first thing 
this fine old Scotch lady did after I was introduced 
was to prepare some refreshments for me. I never 
visited that little cottage, no matter at what hour of 
the day, but the neat little tray was brought to me 

with something to tempt my appetite. Mr. J s 

father was an invalid, and had been for a number of 
years. He was a fine old Scotch character, and a man 
of considerable intelligence, and I quite enjoyed hear- 
ing him converse. The convention was held in the 
Presbyterian church. The congregation were prin- 
cipally the parents of the scholars, with a sprinkling of 
children. The pulpit was one of those high, old- 
fashioned ones, with winding steps. I said to my 
friend, " I think I shall beg to be excused from taking 
my position up there. I will be conspicuous enough 
down below." He replied, with a merry twinkle in 
his eye, " I think you will have to speak from the 
pulpit." Sure enough, the superintendent insisted 
upon my coming up with him. I should like to have 
a photograph of my tall form climbing the stairway 
and standing in the pulpit, with my head about even 
with the gallery. I felt rather awkward perched up 
there, and am sure it must have been rather trying on 
the necks of those who sat near the pulpit. I made 
the acquaintance of some very excellent people in the 



THROUGH THE BRITISH ISLES. 99 

village, and will always remember my visits to their 
hospitable homes. In the evening, as we passed 
through the streets of Sterling, I saw quite a large 
number of people assembled in front of one of the 
Presbyterian churches, holding services, and was in- 
formed it was the custom of the members of this, as well 
as of other denominations, to hold their early services 
on the street, and that great good had been accomp- 
lished by them. 

Monday, July 2. — Mr. J C and two of 

Mr. J 's " wee bairns " went with me to see this 

interesting town. We passed through the old market 
place, then by a broad gravel walk to the top of this 
high rock, where stands this famous Sterling Castle, 
from which can be seen the battlefields where ' ' Wallace 
fought for liberty and Robert Bruce secured his hard- 
won crown." From Victoria lookout and battlements 
the view of the surrounding country is magnificent, 
the tall mountain peaks in the Highlands, the valleys, 
and the stream winding through the meadows, is a 
picture that is photographed on my memory. History 
tells us that Sterling Castle dates back as a royal resi- 
dence to A.D. 990, when Kenneth III. collected his 
forces there and marched to meet the Danes at L,un- 
carty. It was the favorite residence of James V., and 
there James VI. spent his early 3'ears, under the tutor- 
ship of the celebrated George Buchanan. There are 
very many more historical facts connected with it 
which I would like to give. On the esplanade of the 
castle is a large statue representing King Robert Bruce 
sheathing his sword after the battle of Bannockburn. 
Leading up to the great arched doorway is a draw- 



ioo A BACHELOR'S RAMBLES 

bridge over the dry fosse of the castle. There was a 
soldier pacing to and fro. I was much interested in 
going through this castle, which is strongly garrisoned. 
Mr. C — — proved to be an excellent guide, as he 
seemed quite familiar with the history of the castle. 
In one of the rooms there were a number of relics, 
which I spent some time inspecting. There were 
two old chairs, of the reigns of James III. and James 
V., respectively, and several old battle-axes found on 
the battlefield of Bannockburn, also a number of other 
rude weapons. In the Douglass room I saw a beauti- 
ful little window, put in by order of Queen Victoria 
to commemorate William Earl Douglass, murdered 
here in February, 1452, by James II. From the castle 
we went down a flight of stairs to a small garden, in 
the centre of which is a granite pyramid, erected to the 
memory of the Scottish covenanters by the late William 
Drummond, uncle of Professor Henry Drummond. It 
contains a number of Bible inscriptions, and in large, 
bold lettering these words: "Rock of Ages." The 
cemetery is on the slope a little below the castle, in 
what they call the valley. It is beautifully situated, 
and hundreds of Sterling's dead sleep there. In the 
centre are the statues of reformers Knox, Melville and 
Henderson, also a statue of the covenanting martyr 
Renwick, and one of James Guthrie, covenanting min- 
ister of the High Church, and martyr. There was a 
magnificent monument erected to the memory of the 
two young women who suffered a martyr's death. I 
copied the following inscription from this monument : 
"Margaret, virgin martyr of the ocean waves, with 
her like-minded sister Agnes, bound to a stake within 



THROUGH THE BRITISH ISLES. 101 

flood mark of the Solway tide. They died a martyr's 
death May n, 1685. 

" L,ove many waters cannot quench. God saves 
His chaste imperiled one in covenant true. 
Oh, Scotia's daughters, earnest scan the page 
And prize the flower blood bought for you." 

There were a number of other beautiful inscriptions 
around the base of the monument. My pencil was 
busy copying epitaphs that attracted my attention 
which appear on the page set apart for them. We then 
visited the High Church, traditionally called the 
Church of the Grey Friars. The West Kirk, as it is 
called, was built in the fourteenth century, the East 
Kirk in the sixteenth century. This was the church 
that John Knox is said to have preached in. I saw the 
old pulpit and communion table that were in use then ; 
they were on exhibition in Cowane's Hospital, com- 
monly called Guildery. Over the doorway is the statue 
of John Cowane, one of the principal beneficiaries of the 
town. There were various curiosities, among which 
were old tankards, weights and measures that were 
used as standards. 

Tuesday, July 3 — I purposed leaving to-day for 

Glasgow to join Dr. R again, but Mr J insisted 

so strongly on my remaining until I had visited all the 
principal places of interest in and around Sterling, that 

I took the risk of missing Dr. R and not having his 

company on my journey through Ireland. I visited the 
Wallace monument, which stands on a very high hill 
overlooking the river Forth. On the second floor of 
the tower is the armor of Wallace and busts of Sir Wal- 
ter Scott, Carlyle, and William Murdoch, inventor of 



102 A BACHELOR'S RAMBLES 

lighting by gas; John Knox, born 1505, died 1572 ; 
Robert Burns and a number of others whose memories 
are cherished in Scotland and other countries ; the sword 
used by King Robert Bruce at the battle of Sterling 
Bridge, September 11, 1297, with this inscription: "The 
sword fit for archangels to wield was light in his terrible 
hand. ' ' It was a long, tiresome journey to the top of the 
monument, but the view I had from the balcony more than 
repaid me for the exertion I made. The river Forth 
coursing its way in serpentine form through that fertile 
country, was a picture that no human hand could 
paint. I met a young man from Aberdeen, and to- 
gether we went to the old Cambuskenneth Abbey. We 
paid twopence and secured the key from a family living 
in an old house a short distance away, and climbed up 
the winding stairway to the top of the abbey, which was 
crumbling with age, and from there we visited the tomb 
of James III., just back of the abbey. On our way to 
the ferry we stopped at a very old farmhouse and 
refreshed ourselves with a glass of milk. The floors of 
the old house were stone, and I should judge that the 
hand that placed them there had ceased from toil long 
years ago. When we reached the ferry we found a boy 
with a small rowboat ready to take us across the nar- 
row stream , and a few strokes of the oar took us to the 
other side, the fare being a penny. I called at the Y. 
M. C. A. building and met the secretary, who is a mer- 
chant, and only gives his evenings to the work. I 
walked through a very pretty part of the city, the side- 
walks in that section being about three feet above the 
centre of the street, and the grand old trees forming an 
arch over the whole, made it a beautiful sight. I saw 



THROUGH THE BRITISH ISLES. 103 

the home of Professor Drummond's childhood, and it is 

a fine old residence. My friend, Mr. J , was one of 

the Professor's Sunday school scholars, and he spoke 
very highly of him as a teacher. 

Wednesday, July 4.— Mr. J described the 

beauties of the Trossachs to me and urged me to visit 
them, so I left for Callender on the 8 a. m. train, and 
from there rode on the top of a coach a distance of eight 
miles to the Trossachs; it was a delightful ride. 
The scenery was simply grand ; the tall mountain peaks 
seemed to be lifting their heads in all directions, with 
here and there a beautiful sheet of water winding 
around their huge base. I sat on the seat with a fine 
old English gentleman and his wife, of Derbyshire, 
England, with whom I became quite well acquainted. 
Far up in the mountains we met two men with bag- 
pipes, and in company with them were two wretched 
looking women, each with young babes wrapped in 
shawls and strapped on their backs, in Indian style. 
The men walked down the road toward our coach and 
began discoursing a very peculiar air apparently for our 
benefit, but really for their own. We threw them 
some pennies and were glad to get beyond the discord- 
ant strains of their bag-pipes. Soon the Trossachs 
hotel hove in sight, from the top of which I saw the 
stars and stripes floating. I had been singing- 
down in my heart all the morning, ' ' The Star 
Spangled Banner," but as I caught sight of that 
old flag, I could scarcely keep that song I learned in 
childhood from finding its way to my lips. It being 
the celebration of our great Independence Day in 
America, the proprietor of this splendid hotel, 



104 A BACHELOR'S RAMBLES 

alone far up in the highlands, had hoisted the flag in 
honor of his American guests and the American 
tourists passing through that section. We rode up to 
Loch Katrine and embarked on a little steamer for the 
head of that magnificent lake, which nestles between 
two mountains and is dotted with miniature islands. 
Ellen's Isle is a beautiful spot, mentioned by Scott in 
his poem entitled, " Lady of the Lake." In this 
romantic spot, amid the grandeur of this mountain 
scenery, the thoughts, the beauty of which have stirred 
the hearts of lovers of poetry in the old and new world, 
were suggested to Sir Walter Scott, the great poet. 
The ride up the lake is a beautiful one, the 
distance being nine miles. As our steamer sped 
along over the bosom of that placid lake, overshadowed 
by those lofty mountain peaks, it seemed almost like 
" fairy land." Most of the passengers were going to 
Glasgow by the Caledonian Canal, which the old Eng- 
lish gentlman informed me was a trip well worth taking. 
There were a large number of American tourists wait- 
ing at the landing to take the steamer back to the 
Trossachs. They were very patriotic, judging from their 
display of the American flag, as most of the ladies had 
small flags festooned across their shoulders, and the 
gentlemen had them fastened to their umbrellas and 
canes, and they came on board the steamer apparently 
in the spirit of the day. I was not very long in mak- 
ing the fact known that I was born in the 
"Land of the free and home of the brave." But 
while this is the case, I also have a strong love for Old 
England and her three fair daughters, Ireland, 
Scotland and Wales. For in all my travels 



THROUGH THE BRITISH ISLES. 105 

through the British Isles, from those living in luxury 
and wealth to those down in the "vale of poverty," I 
received nothing but kindness, and have every reason 
for believing that they have a good, warm feeling for 
America. I have always felt kindly toward strangers 
coming to our shores, but I think I shall feel more so 
in the future. Coming down the lake I had a grand 
view of Ben Venue, a grand old mountain whose tall 
peak seemed to be touching the clouds. It is 2,393 
feet in height. Ben A'an can be seen lifting its rugged 
peak to the height of 1 ,851 feet. Then came our ride 
back to the hotel, in the rear of which is a mountain 
called Sron-Armailte, and is 1,149 feet in height. We 
remained there about an hour, giving us time to get 
some idea of the grandeur of the scenery. There were 
three coaches, and I rode from the steamer to the hotel 
on the small one, but concluded to find a seat on one 
of the others with the Americans, for there was only 
one man on the coach, and he sat with the driver, so 
when we were ready to leave for Callender I made an 
effort to get a seat on one of the other coaches, but was 
informed they were especially for the tourists, so I seated 
myself on top, of the small coach for a quiet ride over 
the mountains, but just a few moments before leaving, 
two Catholic priests took seats beside me, one of them 
having the appearance of being about thirty-five years 
old, and the other about twenty-eight. I had no idea 
of forming their acquaintance, for I had never 
conversed with a priest. As we were about leaving, 
a man climbed up on the wheel and called for the 
driver's fee. When the priest sitting next to me passed 
him a shilling, he said: "I can't make the change." 



106 A BACHELOR'S RAMBLES 

I did not have a sixpence in change, so the priest 
said : ' ' Jnst keep my shilling and consider this gentle- 
man's fee paid," referring to me. I thanked him and 
told him I would give him the change when we reached 
Callender, but he replied, " I settled for you ; I do not 
wish any change." We at once began a conversation, 
and I found them excellent company ; they were jolly, 
good-natured men. We rode in the compartment to- 
gether from Callender to Sterling. I was quite amused 
to hear the elder priest guy the younger one. They 
said to me : " Did you know we were priests ? " " Oh, 
yes," I replied, and I thought when I saw you coming 
toward the coach I would have a quiet time of it going 
over the mountains." The elder one said : " You 
must have formed a very poor opinion of this gentle- 
man," pointing to his companion. " I have formed a 
very good opinion of both of you," I replied, " and am 
very glad to have formed your acquaintance." We ex- 
changed our religious views very pleasantly and when 
I was leaving them they grasped my hand, shook it 
warmly, and said: " We have spent a very pleasant 
afternoon with you." As this was the last night I ex- 
pected to remain at Sterling, Mr. J invited to his 

house a number of his friends from Cambusbarron and 
Sterling, whom I had met, and a very enjoyable even- 
ing was spent. They sang some fine old Scotch airs 
for me, and then requested me to sing the " Star 
Spangled Banner." Just before they bade me a final 
adieu they sang, " Should Auld Acquaintance be For- 
got," etc. I noted that evening as one of the most 
pleasant I spent during my stay in the old country. 
Thursday, July 5. — I took my autoharp and went 



THROUGH THE BRITISH ISLES. 107 

to Cambusbarron and played and sang "In That 

City" for Mr. J , Sr. I shall never forget that 

old man as he lay in bed with the tears coursing down 
his cheeks. Reaching out his hand to bid me good- 
bye, he said : " I shall never meet you here again, but 
will meet you in that " City," and then gave me a 
neatly folded little note, saying: "That contains my 
sentiments." As I passed out of the door of the little 
cottage I received the ' ' God bless you ! ' ' from that 
family that I have numbered among my choice friends. 

In a letter received a short time ago from Mr. J 

came the information, " Father has gone to the eternal 
city that you sung to him about " When I returned 

to Sterling and bade good-bye to Mr. C and wife, 

Mr. J and his excellent wife and their six ' ' wee 

bairns, ' ' a feeling of sadness crept over me as I thought 
that in all probability I am looking into the faces of 
these kind friends for the last time. Left the grand old 
town of Sterling at 1 p. m. and about an hour's ride 
brought me to the busy city of Glasgow, which has a 
population of about 800,000. History tells us that a 
small Roman colony once occupied this site, and about 
the year 560 St. Mungo founded a religious house here, 
so that it dates far back in the past. It is sixty miles 
from the sea, but is said to rival Liverpool in shipping. 
I passed over the splendid Glasgow bridge and was 
surprised to see the great number of ships lying at the 
docks far down the river. I promised my friends, Mr. 

and Mrs. S , of Camden, New Jersey, that when I 

visited Glasgow I would call on their relatives. Mrs. 

S has a sister living at Paisley, a few miles from 

Glasgow, and thither I went by train. When I called 



io8 A BACHELOR'S RAMBLES 

on and informed her that I had a message from her sis- 
ter in America she seemed overjoyed, as she had not 
heard from her for a number of years. She said : " It 
is nearly forty years since I bade her good-bye." I re- 
mained only a short time there and then rode on the 
top of a tram through one of the principal streets. The 
city has a magnificent town hall ; the Coates cotton 
mill is an immense building ; also passed the Coates 
Memorial Baptist Church, which is a large and hand- 
some structure. On some of the business streets there 
were quite a number of large, well-stocked stores. The 
celebrated Paisley shawls are made here. Returned to 

Glasgow and called at the house of Mr. S 's sister, 

but they were away in the country. From there went 
to the Y. M. C. A. hall, and was directed by the assist- 
ant secretary to the Hotel Waverly, and found very 
comfortable quarters for the night. 

Friday, July 6.— Called at the Y. M. C. A. and 

met the secretary, Mr. O , and found him one of 

the brightest and most genial secretaries that I met 
during my travels. When he learned I was the author 
of the hymn, "A Sinner L,ike Me," he informed me 
that his wife, who is the daughter of the Rev. Horatius 
Bonar, the celebrated hymn writer, had been singing 
that hymn all over Scotland as a solo for a number of 
years, and he said: " I am sure she would be pleased to 
meet you, and as she is to meet a committee of ladies at 
the Young Women's Christian Association Hall in a 
short time, I will take you around and introduce you." 
And so we went to this fine hall fitted up for young 
ladies, which reflects great credit on the people of 
Glasgow, and met this distinguished lady, along with a 



THROUGH THE BRITISH ISLES. 109 

number of others of Scotland's noted Christian women. 
The Y. M. C. A. hall is one of the largest and best 

equipped that I visited. Mr. kindly gave me a 

plan whereby I could see the principal places of inter- 
est. The municipal building is a very large and hand- 
some structure, and is an ornament to the city. The 
stores on Buchanan street, which is one of the princi- 
pal thoroughfares, compare favorably with any city on 
either side of the Atlantic. The old Cathedral interested 
me very much and I spent considerable time there. The 
large stained glass windows are magnificent, and the 
designs on them attracted my attention. The dimen- 
sions given of the old edifice are 319 feet long and 63 
feet wide. It contains a number of pieces of statuary 
and tablets, and the old churchyard is filled with slabs 
with inscriptions that can scarcely be read, being so 
old. Back of the Cathedral, terraced on the side of the 
hill, is a beautiful cemetery in which stands the monu- 
ment of Knox and a number of others of Scotland's 
cherished dead. I also visited West End, where there 
are a number of elegant residences, the Botanical Gar- 
dens, the University, and a finely arranged park 
claimed my attention for a short time. I embarked on 
the steamer " Shamrock " for Londonderry, Ireland, 
and had a good view of the shipyards as we passed 
down the river Clyde. It was one continuous sound 
of the hammer until we got beyond the city limits. A 
severe thunder storm poured its fury out upon us when 
we were a little below the city, so that I was deprived 
of a good view of the scenery along the river. We 
reached Greenoch at 6:30 and then started seaward 



no A BACHELOR'S RAMBLES 

again. I left Scotland charmed with its beauties, and 
shall always kindly remember her warm-hearted and 
hospitable people. 





A Trip Through " Old Ireland." 

ATURDAY, July 7.— When I came out 
on deck we were steaming up the river 
Foyle and the scenery was charming. 
Those great hills, sloping down to the 
margin of the river dotted with little 
farm-houses, was very picturesque, and 
as we approached Londonderry it struck 
me as being a very pretty little city. It 
is built on both sides of the river ; on 
what is called Water Side, the houses seemed to be 
terraced on the side of the hill, and a handsome bridge 
spans the river just above where we landed. When I 
stepped ashore I could scarcely realize I was in 
" Old Ireland," a land I have always desired to see. 
A young man from Australia, with whom I became ac- 
quainted on the steamer, had some business to attend to 
and invited me to go with him. We crossed in a min- 
iature ferry-boat, which was an odd-looking craft, and 
returned by way of the bridge to the city proper. The 
old walls that still surround the city and are preserved as 
a promenade, were built in 1688 and some parts of them 
bear the marks of the bullets made during the wonder- 
ful siege of 'Deny. I walked around them and had a 
good view of the city. I saw the large cannon called 
" Roaring Meg," used during the siege. Londonderry 
has a population of about 35,000, and the business por- 
tion compares favorably with any city of its size that I 
visited. Some of the " shops " are quite large. I 



ii2 A BACHELOR'S RAMBLES 

called at the Y. M. C. A. and at the postoffiee, think- 
ing I might find some trace of Dr. R , bnt failed to 

do so. My old heart bounded with joy when they 
passed me out some mail matter from America, for- 
warded to me by my good friend, Mrs. P -, of Har- 

born, England. I was alone in a strange land, and as 
I read those letters I felt that I was in close touch with 
those who had kindly written them. I went to the 
old cathedral and the lady having charge kindly showed 
me through, and before 1 left, called my atten- 
tion to an old cannon ball found in the yard 
after the siege. I called at the manse (or par- 
sonage) of the East Wall Wesleyan Church and intro- 
duced myself to the pastor, Rev. Mr. , and 

found him a good, warm-hearted old gentleman. After 
some conversation he invited me to preach for him on 
Sunday morning. I thanked him and told him when 
I preached I generally had a very small congregation — 
no one there but Butler. He smiled and said: "Oh, 
I thought you were a preacher." He requested me to 
help him in his service in the morning and evening, and 
directed me to one of his members who kept a temper- 
ance hotel, which I found to be a very homelike place. 
Went down through a part of the city containing a 
number of little houses, one of which, with its little 
windows, amused me particularly. I saw a typical old 
Irish woman sitting in the market-place smoking a 
clay pipe, seemingly getting a great deal of comfort 
from it. The Salvation Army made quite a display, 
and held a very excellent service on one of the princi- 
pal streets. I was compelled to take refuge from the 
storm in a large grocery store, and one of the gentle- 



THROUGH THE BRITISH ISLES. 113 

men, who thought me a native of Ireland, became quite 
friendly and invited me to call in whenever I was in 
that locality. I had about walked the soles off my 
shoes and called at a cobbler's shop, and while they 
were being repaired had quite an interesting conversa- 
tion with the proprietor. The old man was quite in- 
terested in my description of America. Before I re- 
tired I began to feel somewhat at home in ' ' Old Ire- 
land." 

Sunday, July 8. — According to promise, I was 
present at service at the East Wall Wesleyan Church, 
and assisted the pastor as best I could ; in the afternoon 
went to the Sabbath school and addressed the children. 

Mr. A , the assistant superintendent, who had 

charge of the school, had a large, warm Irish heart in 
him, and made me feel quite at home in their presence. 
In the evening I took charge of the prayer service after 
the sermon, as the pastor had to go over to 
the Water Side and preach at another chapel. I 
became acquainted with quite a number of the 

members, among them a Mr. McC and a Mr. 

H , the latter gentleman formerly from the town of 

Tipperary, which is in the south of Ireland. He 
urged me to visit his old home when I was in that 
locality. When I returned to the hotel I found 
several persons who had just landed from the steamer 
"City of Rome." They had been living in America 
for a number of years, and had returned to the home of 

their childhood on a visit. Mr. B , the proprietor, 

introduced me to them as being from America, and 
they, thinking I was formerly from the "Old Sod," 
said to me : ' ' How long has it been since you left 



ii4 A BACHELOR'S RAMBLES 

Ireland?" "Indeed," I said, "I have never left 
yet." They looked surprised, and in reply said : "We 
understood the gentleman to say your home was in 
America." " So it is," I replied ; " but I have never 
left Ireland, for the reason I never was here before." 
They smiled, and said: "We thought you were an 
Irishman. ' ' My grandmother Butler's father came from 
the north of Ireland, so I concluded that I must 
resemble him in a very striking manner, and according 
to her discription of him, I am quite willing it should 
be so. 

Monday, July 9. — Left 'Derry for Port Rush on the 
8 a. m. train. In the same compartment as myself 
were several Americans. I engaged in conversation 
with them, and, when they informed me they were from 
Wilmington, Delaware, I felt as though I had met 
friends almost directly from home. Port Rush is a 
seaside resort, and from what I could see of it in 
passing through on the train, I jotted it down in my 
note book as a very pretty little town. From Port 
Rush I rode on the electric tram to Giant's Causeway. 
We ran very close along the wild, rocky coast, and I 
kept my eyes busy gazing at those strange looking 
caverns formed in the white rocks. The ruins of 
Dunluce Castle, on a rock about 100 feet above the 
sea, attracted my attention, and I felt inclined to leave 
the tram and explore the old ruins. A narrow wall 
connects the ' castle with the mainland. Giant's 
Causeway is a marvelous formation of rocks. One 
would think surely they were chiseled out by human 
hands and placed there. Most of the stones were 
quite uniform, and, as far as I can recollect, they were 



THROUGH THE BRITISH ISLES. 115 

something over one foot in diameter, perfectly level 
on top, and a few inches apart, reminding one of 
stepping-stones. My description of the size of the 
stones may not be accurate ; had I then had any idea of 
publishing my diary, I would have made more elaborate 
notes of this wonderful place. The Causeway extends 
a short distance out into the sea. I sat on those 
rocks, with the waves breaking gently at their base, 
and wrote in my note book. There are formations 
bearing different names in the rocks in and around the 
Causeway. "The Giant's Gateway," "Giant's Organ," 
" Chimney Tops," " The Priest and His Flock," and 
' ' The Hen and Chickens ' ' were some of the titles 
given them. In order to see everything of interest 
here, it is necessary to go with a guide in his small 
boat. This I did not do, for the clouds hung low and 
occasionally dropped down great sheets of water, com- 
pelling me to hurriedly find a refuge. I met an old 
lady selling photographs of the Causeway and little 
trinkets. I purchased some articles of her, and when 
she urged me to continue in the good work, I informed 
her I had used up all my small change. She gave me 
her blessing, and looked up into my face and said, with 
her good, rich brogue : "It's meself thot had a good 
mon, an' as foine a lookin' b'y as ye " (I thought the 
old lady's eyes needed attention when she called 
me a boy), " thot wint out to sea an' niver come back ; 
thot's why I'm carryin' this basket." After failing 
to respond to her pathetic appeal, she concluded 
I must, indeed, be short of change. In going out on 
the Causeway again, I saw a group of old ladies with 
their baskets of wares, the same old lady being one of 



n6 A BACHELOR'S RAMBLES 

the number. They were standing near what is called 
the "Wishing Chair," a stone with several others 
a trifle smaller encircling it. These old ladies were 
anxious that I should sit on it ; one of them in particu- 
lar assuring me that if I made three wishes while 
sitting there they would surely come true. I knew she 
was talking for a shilling, and the old ladj r whom I 
"had met before helped me out by saying : " Don't be 
botherin' him ; he's no change ; he spint it with me." 
But she paid no attention to what No. i said, but kept 
saying to me : " Sit ye down ;" so I finally consented. 
They gathered around me and insisted that I should 
make three wishes before I arose. I told them I had 
only one wish, and that was to get up, for it was wet 
down there, and that wish came true, for I was soon 
on my feet. They were all talking at a very rapid 
rate, and I said to them as I w r as leaving: "Well, 
peace to your bones." A man who was standing near 
said : "What bones do you mean, jaw bones?" I left 
Giant's Causeway well pleased with my visit there, 
and if any of the readers should visit that beautiful 
island across the sea, do not fail to see Giant's Cause- 
way. When I returned to Londonderry, I met Mr. 

McC and Mr. H , and we took a walk on the 

Water Side, along the embankment on the river 
front, and, as we ascended the hill, had a good view of 
'Derry. This is a very romantic place ; we could see 
far over into County Donegal. I met the Rev. Mr. 

Q again, and his good wife, and bade them a final 

adieu as I was to leave in the morning, and called on 
several with whom I had so pleasantly associated 
during the few days I spent in their city. Mr. 



THRO UGH THE B RITISH ISLES. 1 1 7 

McC and my Tipperary friend spent the evening 

with me at the hotel. I regretted leaving Londonderry 
so soon, and I shall always remember my visit there 
with pleasure. 

Tuesday, July 10.— I arose early and " booked " 
for Belfast. Mr. MeC , who is a traveling sales- 
man for a large business house in Londonderry, met 
me at the train and rode with me as far as one of the 
towns in County Donegal. The Donegal whiskers I 
have heard spoken of quite often, but here I saw the 
genuine article. A little man boarded the train at one 
of the stations in County Donegal ; his hair was a 
bright red and his whiskers were a shade redder ; they 
began a little below his ears, encircling his throat, and 
made a very striking border for his collar. He sat op- 
posite me, and I had to suppress a laugh, which was 
quite an effort for me to do. At Omagh, the county 
seat of Tyrone, I " broke my journey." I have some 
friends who lived there at one time, and have heard 
them speak of Omagh so frequently that as I walked 
through the streets of that pleasant little town it 
seemed quite familiar to me. The county court was 
about convening, and, judging from the crowd that were 
in and about the court-house, business was brisk. I 
saw the lawyers hurrying to and fro with documents in 
their hands, preparing to untangle some unfortunate 
one from the meshes of the law. In traveling through 
the different countries I found old human nature about 
the same. Prisons and court-houses are just as neces- 
sary over there as they are in our great country. The 
great adversary is succeeding all too well in making 
men and women believe that his way is the best. I 



nS A BACHELOR'S RAMBLES 

took the liberty of calling on the Rev. Mr. F -, pas- 
tor of the Wesleyan Chapel, who gave me a cordial re- 
ception, and expressed his regrets at my not being able 
to be with him on Sunday. He pointed out the old 
manse (or parsonage) where one of my friends lived 
when a young lady, her father being pastor of the 
chapel at that time. They were erecting a very large 
Catholic church and it struck me that money was not 
so hard to get hold of there as I had imagined, judging 
from the number of fine churches of different denomi- 
nations, and the amount of business the merchants 
seemed to be doing. I visited the poor district, and 
was interested in the miniature houses, in which 
the occupants seemed to be perfectly happy. Left for 
Belfast in the afternoon, passing through Duncannon, 
which is quite a large town. We changed cars at Porta - 
down, then passed through the towns of Moy, 
L,urgan and L,isburn. Some of these towns are noted 
for the manufacture of fine linen. We passed a num- 
ber of bogs where men and women were engaged in 
digging and piling up the peat, which they cut into 
small squares and pile up to dry. It is used as fuel by 
a great many of the people. I asked an old man, who 
had a cartload for sale in Omagh, for a piece of it. 
"Help yourself to all you want," he said. After a 
ride of something over four hours I arrived at Belfast, 
a city that I felt at home in as soon as I entered, it 
seemed so Americanlike in its appearance. It has a 
population of about 260,000, is nicely laid out, and one 
can find their way about as easily as in our own great 
city of Philadelphia. The large stores that lined the 
principal business streets (the proprietors of which 



THROUGH THE BRITISH ISLES. i 19 

seemed to be as full of snap and push as any wide- 
awake merchant in America) were wonderfully attrac- 
tive, and most of them were well patronized by the 
ladies, who seemed to be spending their shillings as rap- 
idly as the average American lady disposes of her hus- 
band's extra change. As is my custom, I made my 
way to the Y. M. C. A. hall, an organization that 
every city and town should have, and that all Christian 
and good-thinking people should be interested in. 
Hundreds of young men have been saved from being 
wrecked, and a host more might be if more atten- 
tion was given to this very worthy institution, and the 
churches would be all the stronger by the grand work 
done by these associations. On going into a strange 
city, alone especially, a feeling of loneliness would take 
possession of me, but when I saw the sign of the Y. M. 
C. A. on a building, and entered, I always found the 
secretary or his assistant ready to give me a warm 
shake of the hand and bid me feel at home, and fre- 
quently I have formed the acquaintance of those whose 
company has been very helpful to me. These places 
are open when the churches are not. I was directed 
at the hall to a temperance hotel on East College 
Square, and, like most of the places I stopped at, was 
very homelike. At the hall in the evening I met a Mr. 
F , a very excellent young man, formerly from Edin- 
burgh, Scotland, who was preparing himself for mis- 
sion work in Africa. His life was rather a sad one, 
his father being dead, and his mother had lost her rea- 
son beyond recovery. 

Wednesday, July 1 1 . — By my note book I see the 
day was spent in a general tramp around the city. 



120 A BACHELOR'S RAMBLES 

Went out nearly to Cave Hill, and in coming back saw 
a group of people gathered around a large church wait- 
ing to catch a glimpse of a young couple who were 
having the nuptial knot tied, and I thought there was 
about as much curiosity manifested as I had ever seen 
over in America on such occasions. It seemed to be a 
day set apart for performing that ceremony, for a little 
beyond, in front of another church, was another large 
crowd, anxiously waiting to see the fresh bride and 
groom. On visiting the docks, found the shipping was 
quite extensive, and shipbuilding is carried on here on a 
large scale, a number of large vessels plying between 
Liverpool and New York having been built here. Went 
through a very old and odd-looking market. It 
seemed to me that I was paying a visit to Noah's 
ark ; one could, for a few shillings, purchase goods 
enough to begin housekeeping on a small scale. Also 
visited a part of the city containing a great many hand- 
some residences, and from there went to the district of 
the working class ; most of the houses were two-story 
brick, and were very comfortable looking homes. 
While on the top of a tram, riding through the principal 
business streets, I met two gentlemen from Baltimore, 
Maryland, who asked me a question about a certain 
place we were passing, and when I informed them I 
was from America, they said: "We thought you 
were a resident here." A short time afterward, while 
in Robinson & Cleaver's immense dry goods store 
making some purchases, the clerk waiting on me said : 
"I should judge from your appearance you were a 
native of our country." This store is the largest and 
finest in Belfast, and is noted for its cheap and elegant 



THROUGH THE BRITISH ISLES. 121 

linens. On returning to the Y. M. C. A. hall, 

met Mr. B , the secretary, whom I had heard 

speak at Exeter Hall, London. He, like myself, is a 
bachelor with several years piled up on him. He 

introduced me to Rev. Mr. McA , who informed 

me that he had visited America, and his wife was 

formerly from Wayne, Pennsylvania. Mr. B 

asked me if I was married. Of course I answered no. 
The reverend gentleman said, with a great deal of 
humor, " you ought to have known he was a bachelor 
by his sad looking countenance." In reply, I said: 
" We are the ones that possess sunshine, notwithstand- 
ing public opinion is against us." 

Thursday, July 12. — This was a general holiday 
in Belfast, it being the annual celebration of Orange- 
men. The Y. M. C. A. made an excursion to the Isle 
of Man, taking about 1,500. The Orangemen had a 
very large parade ; some part of it formed on East 
College Square, and the entire procession passed 
within a block of the hotel, so I saw most of it 
from my window. The brass bands were quite 
numerous, and most of them were very good. There 
was a very elaborate display of banners all over the 
city ; even in the small streets they were stretched 
across from the houses on the opposite side. In the 
afternoon, took a ride to Balmoral, about one mile 
from where the celebration took place. Two young- 
men, who I met on the tram, walked with me through 
a beautiful part of the country, and on our return we 
met the parade on the homeward march. Aside from 
a few who had been keeping company with ' ' John 
Barleycorn," they were very orderly. The whole 



122 A BACHELOR'S RAMBLES 

thing, both in and out of the city, passed off quietly. 
The young men went with me to the Dublin boat, in 
which I embarked for the city of Dublin. There were 
very few passengers, and the steamer was small and 
the accommodations poor, but as my shillings were 
getting short and I could save several by going that 
way, I concluded I would endure it for one night. I 
formed the acquaintance of a medical student ; he was 
a bright, interesting fellow, and we passed the evening 
very pleasantly together. Had a good view of the sea 
front of County Antrim and County Down, as we 
passed along in the steamer. 

Friday, July 13. — The ride up River Ljffey, which 
divides the grand old city of Dublin, with its 420,000 
inhabitants, was a pleasant one. We landed about 6:30 
a. m. There were very few people on the streets, and 
scarcely any business houses open. As a rule, they 
begin business between the hours of 8 and 9 A. M. 
Some of the smaller places are ready for trade about 7 
o'clock. Near the Quay, where we landed, I saw an 
old lady that quite amused me ; she had a basket of 
fruit, and was sitting in the bottom of a cart. She had 
on a large pair of shoes that stood up like monuments, 
andalittle, old-fashioned black bonnet relieved by a white 
cap peeping out from it, with three frills, the last one 
encircling a very decided looking face. After bidding 

Mr. W^ , the medical student, adieu, I was alone 

again in a strange city. A short walk from the Quay 
brought me to Sackeville street, one of the principal 
thoroughfares, and which is a beautiful street. A 
great many of the stores, both in this and other busi- 
ness streets, are quite as fine as most of the London 



THROUGH THE BRF1ISH ISLES. 123 

stores. After taking a stroll down this street and over 
the O 'Connell Bridge to Trinity College and the Bank of 
Ireland, I inquired the way to the Y. M. C. A. hall, 
and was directed there, it being on Lower Abbey 
street, a short distance from Sackeville street. Left my 
luggage there, and sallied forth to see another part of 
the city, passing through Marlborough street, on which 
is a large cathedral, and back to Sackville street, 
where stands Nelson's monument, which is 121 feet 
high. A sixpence, the attendant informed me, would 
admit me, which amount I paid, and climbed the 
winding stairway to the balcony, from which I had a 
good view of the city and surrounding country. The 
Hill of Howth, the Irish Sea, the Wicklow Mountains, 
the beautiful country, and most of the city was 
scenery that I considered very fine. On returning 
from the monument to the Y. M. C. A. hall, I met the 

secretary, Mr. W B , a warm-hearted, genial 

man, whose bright, cheerful face I shall not soon forget, 
and whose kind deeds, along with those of whom I 
met through him, I have hung on memory's wall, to 
remain through all the years of my life. He gave me 
such a cordial welcome I almost felt I was meeting an 
old friend. He introduced me to the secretary of the 
City Union, and he at once invited me to address the 
Sunday Morning Breakfast, as the gentleman who 
was to speak had disappointed them. " If I am 
large enough to fill the breach," I said, "you can 
use me." I presume he concluded if I possessed 
ability according to my size, I would answer very well. 

Mr. B took me to a temperance hotel on Lower 

Abbey street, kept by Mrs. E , a remarkably fine, 



124 A BACHELOR'S RAMBLES 

motherly old lady, where I remained during my stay in 

Dublin. As Mr. B and I were coming down 

Sackeville street, we met a Mr. H , to whom I was 

introduced. He was a young man whose ready wit 
could not be surpassed. The witty remarks that he 

and Mr. B passed out to each other caused me to 

laugh so that I attracted the attention of the passersby. 
The Ladies' Auxiliary of the Y. M. C. A. were to give 
a tea party at the Hill of Howth, on Saturday after- 
noon, and Mr. B invited me to go along, and as 

he had to go with the ladies in the morning to assist 

them, he requested Mr. H to meet me at the hall 

at a given time in the afternoon, and pilot me to Howth, 

which he readily agreed to do. Mr. B invited me 

to go with him to Kingstown, a few miles from Dublin, 
where he boarded, he being a bachelor also, although 
not quite so far advanced as myself. A half hour's 
ride brought us to his home, which was near the sea 
wall, and from the window where I sat I had a good 
view of the Irish Sea, which behaves so badly at times. 

His roommate, a Mr. S , was a pleasant young 

Englishman and very entertaining. The lady of the 
house was a kind, hospitable woman and a strict 
member of the Roman Catholic Church. She was 
interested in hearing about America, as she had two sons 
living in Brooklyn, New York. I was introduced to a 

Mr. McC and family living near by, a gentleman 

holding a position in the Dublin postomce. He invited 
us to take supper with him. I wondered how I would 
manage another meal after such a one as this good 
lady had prepared for us. After returning from a long 
walk, we sat down to a table laden with tempting food, 



THROUGH THE BRITISH ISLES. 125 

and I succeeded grandly in hiding considerable of it 
away. It was very late when I returned to Dublin. 

Mr. B informed me the train would stop a short 

distance from Lower Abbey street, but the guard said 
this was the last train for the night, and did not go 
beyond the main station, which was a long distance 
from my hotel . I fastened my eye on a very respectable 
looking young man who was coming from the train, and 
finally asked him to direct me to Lower Abbey street ; 
he said: "I am going in that vicinity, and will accom- 
pany you." He gained my confidence, and I felt quite 
safe with him as we wended our way through what 
seemed to be a rough locality. I thanked him kindly 
as he left me at the door, and put him on the long list 
of warm-hearted Irishmen. 

Saturday, July 14. — I joined Secretary B and 

a young man whom I afterward learned was employed 

in the same store with my friend W , at Cheapside, 

London, and we were shown through the Bank of 

Ireland, through the courtesy of a friend of Mr. B , 

who holds a position of trust there. It is customary 
to clip the bank notes when they are returned, as they 
are used but once. I gathered up a few of the clip- 
pings, and had a great desire to gather up some of the 
notes, legitimately, as my roll was getting exceedingly 
small. After leaving the bank the young man from 
London and I visited the Glasvevin Cemetery, 
where rests the remains of Daniel O'Connell, whose 
memory is cherished by Irishmen the world over. We 
each paid a sixpence and w r ent down into the vault and 
saw his coffin, with those of other members of his 
family ; also visited the grave of Paruell , and saw a 



126 A BACHELOR'S RAMBLES 

young lady forming the letters of his name on the 
mound with fresh cut flowers. There were a number 
of wreaths in immortelles, placed there by different 
societies. We saw a number of fine monuments, 
erected to the memory of other prominent men of Ire- 
land, some of whom had been bishops of the Roman 
Catholic Church. Leaving the quiet resting place of 
the dead , we came through a new and very pretty part 
of the city, where the young man left me to take the 
train for home. After leaving him I went through 
Moore street, which was so crowded with people mar- 
keting that quite often I had to walk in the centre of 
the street. The vegetables looked very nice, although 
there was not such a variety as we see displayed in our 
markets. Met Mr. H — — at the appointed time and 
place, and asked him whether it would be advisable for 
us to go to the Hill of Hovvth, as it was then raining. 
He replied in a manner which made me laugh heartily : 
' ' You are in a strange kind of a country now ; Howth is 
nine miles away, and it may not be raining there. Some- 
times it rains on one side of Sackeville street and is dry 
on the other." "Then we will go," I replied, "if 
that is the kind of climate you have in Ireland." 
We were joined at the Amein Street Station by a 
number of good, jolly young men. Several of them 

in our compartment were inclined to guy Mr. H , 

but he always had an answer ready to pass out to them . 
One young man, sitting opposite me, noticed Mr. 

H 's handkerchief showing from his coat pocket 

and said to him : " H , I think I have seen that 

handkerchief before." Scarcely had he finished the 
sentence when Mr. H said: "It is quite likely, 



THROUGH THE BRITISH ISLES. 127 

for your poor old mother washed for me three weeks 
ago." The manner in which he made this remark 
caused a roar of laughter, even the young man, although 
somewhat confused, joining in the laugh. We did 

very little but laugh at the wit of Mr. H ; who was 

formerly from the city of Cork. On reaching Howth, 
which is a good sized town, we walked through a 
splendid domain to a beautiful spot, where the ladies 
had prepared lunch for us. There were about fifty 
persons in the company, men and women of culture 
and refinement, most of whom were actively engaged 

in Christian work. I was introduced by Mr. B to 

the entire company, and requested to sing the hymn I 
have so often referred to, it being a favorite of most of 

them. Among the number was the Rev. Mr. K 

and wife. Mr. K- is a prominent Presbyterian 

minister of Belfast, and, I was informed, is a man 
whose influence for good is widespread. I had a pleas- 
ant conversation with him and his excellent wife. 
Mr. F , who is one of Dublin's successful mer- 
chants, invited me to spend Sunday with him at his 
home, near Donneybrook, a suburb of Dublin. Mr. 
B told me it was in all order to accept the invita- 
tion. Then a Mr. W came to me and invited 

me to his home at Black Rock, another of Dublin's 
beautiful suburban towns. I told him I had planned 
to go to the Lakes of Kiliarney on Monday, but he 
insisted on me postponing my trip and pay him a visit 
on Monday, which I finally consented to, and shall 
never regret having done so. One of the gentlemen 
photographed the entire party, and afterward a small 
group, in which my tall form is quite conspicuous. 



128 A BACHELOR'S RAMBLES 

We climbed to the peak of the grand old Hill of Howth, 
which overlooks the Irish Sea, and from which can be 
seen Ireland's Eye and Kingstown harbor, and the sea 
front of County Wicklow. Before leaving the grounds 

the Rev. Mr. K gave us a very good address, after 

which Mrs. F rendered a solo that was highly 

appreciated. She has a sweet, musical voice. That 
afternoon spent at the Hill of Howth, with those who 
showed me, the tall stranger, so much kindness and 
attention, I shall always look back to with very pleas- 
ant recollections. 

Sunday, July 15. — According to previous engage- 
ment I went to the Y. M. C. A. hall at 8 A. M. to 
address the Sunday Morning Breakfast. There were 
something over 600 men and women assembled, 
who, judging from their appearance, came from the 
slums of the city. I did my best to throw out the 
" Life Line" to those unfortunate ones, and trust that 
some one was rescued by my effort. From there went 
to Merion Hall, where the Plymouth Brethren, of 

which Mr. and Mrs. F are members, hold their 

services. I attended the bread-breaking, which is the 
first service, and then listened to a very excellent 
sermon by a minister from a distant town. Mr. F — — , 
having to take charge of his father's mission at one of 
the suburban towns, was unable to meet me at tliehall, 
so he had arranged that I should accompany his wife 
to their home. A half hour's walk brought us to 
their elegant residence, at Donney brook, where I was 

royally entertained. Mrs. F introduced me to her 

two little daughters, one six and the other eight years 
old. They gave me a reception I shall never forget; 



THROUGH THE BRITISH ISLES. 129 

they threw their little arms around my neck, saying: 
" Welcome to our home, Mr. Butler." I was relating 
this incident in the home of a friend in Pennsylvania, 
where there were a number of young ladies present. 
One of them excused herself for interupting and said : 
"Mr. Butler, if you were expecting to be treated in 
like manner by the young ladies here this evening, 
we have been rather slow in performing our duty." 
The story ended in a grand laugh, in which none 
joined more heartily than myself. The long walk to 

the home of Mr. F prepared me to do justice to the 

sumptuous meal awaiting me. It was so entirely 
homelike it did not seem like my first visit there. 
The little girls were remarkably bright and interesting, 
and sang beautifully with their mother. Mr. F — - — , 
who came home shortly after our arrival there, gave 
me an account of their mission work. They insisted 
on my remaining with them to tea, as the secretary, 

Mr. B , was expected there, which I did, returning 

with Mr. B in time for the evening service at the 

Y. M. C. A. hall. Secretary B , who is very 

earnest in his efforts to rescue the lost, has a noble 
band of young men who assist him in his good work. 

Monday, July 16. — In company with Mr. B , 

went to the Dublin Visiting Medical Mission. This 
very worthy institution was recently organized by some 
of the charitably disposed persons of Dublin. It is 
nonsectarian, and is supported entirely by the liberality 

of the people. Mr. B is one of the committee, and 

Mrs. F one of the secretaries. Many of the 

poor in the courts and alleys of Dublin know Mrs. 
F , not simply from her passing their door, but from 



130 A BACHELOR'S RAMBLES 

her visits to their wretched homes, and remember her 
kindly for administering to their needs. They have a 
short service in the mission rooms prior to the dispens- 
ing of medicines. There were about forty persons 
present, who evidently felt the pinching of poverty, 
some of them having very sad looking countenances. 
They listened attentively to the speaker as he told them 
of the Great Physician who could cure their sin-sick 
souls. At the close of the service thev received treat- 
ment from Dr. I!, , a young man, whom I was in- 
formed was an excellent Christian. In coming from 
the mission we passed through some of the slums, for 
Dublin, like every other city in the world, has its sec- 
tions where the degraded congregate. In the afternoon 
went to Black Rock, a short distance from the city, 

where Mr. J W resides, one of the gentlemen 

I met at Howth on Saturday. On entering that fine, 
large home I received another good old Irish welcome. 

Mr. W- and his wife and two sons and daughter, 

and his sister, made me feel at once that I was with 

friends, and not strangers. Miss W , who is an 

accomplished young lady, and her brother, played sev- 
eral fine duets on the piano. Both of the sons are 
graduates of Trinity College, Dublin. Mr. W in- 
formed me that his brother, living at Howth, had sent 
me an invitation to visit and take dinner with him on 
Tuesday. My plans were arranged to go to the south 
of Ireland, and having already delayed my trip for a 
visit to this home, thought I must be on the move early 

on Tuesday, but Mr. W had a way of putting 

things that made you think his way was the best ; 
he planned to have me call at his place of business, 



THROUGH THE BRITISH ISLES. 131 

and, with his youngest son, visit some places of inter- 
est that I had not yet seen, and afterwards meet him at 
the Amein Street Station at a given time and he would 
accompany me to Howth . So passed another pleasant 
evening in one of Old Ireland's many refined Christian 
homes. 

Tuesday, July 17. — While in the vicinity of 
Stephen's Green it began raining very hard. Stepping 
into a music store for shelter, to my surprise I found 
one of the firm was a young man whom I had met at 
the picnic at Howth. After the rain ceased I took a 
stroll through a number of beautiful streets that I had 
not visited before, and on which were many grand 
homes. Dublin is considered a very wealthy city. 
Paid a hurried visit to Phoenix Park, for the clouds 
gave me warning that they would soon begin business 
again. It is no trouble to rain in Ireland. Near one 
of the monuments I found an old coin ; the date on it 
was 1689. In the park I met a young man who had a 
strong desire to go to America, but I think before I 
left him I had convinced him he was better off in 
Ireland, for the present. At the Corn Exchange, 

where Mr. W 's place of business is, I met his son, 

and together we went through old Trinity College, 
from which have gone many young men who have 
been an honor to Old Ireland. We spent some time in 
the Museum and in the National Art Gallery. There 
were a number of Ireland's old relics in the former 
place. I came away much pleased with my visit to 
these places of interest. Rode out to the suburbs of 
the city, then walked to the village of Rathfarnham, 
then went to Amein Street Station and met Mr. W 



132 A BACHELOR'S RAMBLES 

and his brother and niece, and a short ride brought us to 
Howth. Rode from the station in an Irish jaunting 
car ; they sat on the seat without any effort, apparently, 
but I tightly grasped the arm of the seat and wondered 
even then whether or not I would find myself rolling in 

the dust. Mr. W 's home stands upon the hill, 

from which can be had a good view of the sea, and for 
grandeur it compares with any that I visited. 
We took a walk along the high bluff, where, far below, 
breakers were dashing at its base. They showed me the 
spot where a few weeks previous an English tourist fell 
over the cliff and lodged on a ledge of rocks some 
distance below, where he was found some hours after- 
ward, badly injured, and was rescued with great 
difficulty. As I gathered around the table with Mr. 

W 's family, which consisted of his wife, two 

daughters and two sons. I concluded I had not met a 
more refined and hospitable family. 

Wednesday, July 18. — The train left King's 
Bridge Station at 7 a. m. for Killarney, and I was com- 
pelled to walk the long distance to the station, as there 
were no trams running at that hour, for I presume 
there is not traffic enough to pay much earlier than 7 
o'clock. The country from Dublin to Killarney is 
very beautiful, but I noticed that comparatively small 
portions of it were under cultivation. In the com- 
partment with me were an old Scotch lady and her son 
and daughter. I soon managed to get into conversa- 
tion with them. The gentleman informed me they 
had been to America, most of their time being spent in 
the West. They considered America a great country. 
It was a journey of about seven hours from Dublin to 



THROUGH THE BRITISH ISLES. 133 

Killarney, and the interesting conversation I had with 
these Scotch people, together with the beautiful scenery, 
made it very pleasant. The town of Killarney, with a 
population of about 5,000, aside from a few large 
hotels and a cathedral, is not very inviting. I was 
surprised, on entering the town, to find so many small 
and wretched looking houses, but the sublime scenery 
all about it any lover of nature would not soon weary 
of. A young man in Dublin referred me to a hotel 

kept by a Mrs. J -. Just as I arrived she said : 

' 'There are two jaunting cars about leaving for the lakes, 
and there is room on the rear car for you if you wish to 
go." As I intended to remain only until the next 
morning, I availed myself of the opportunity of taking 
in the grandeur of that lake region, which any one 
visiting Ireland should not fail to see. There were 
three Americans and an Irishman and his son, from 
Glasgow, on one car, while on the other was his wife 
and daughter and sister-in-law. As I seated myself 
beside his wife, he got off the car and came over to me 
and said : ' ' That is my wife ; see that you do not run 
off with her." In reply I said : "I have no wife of 
my own, and you need have no fear of me depriving 
you of yours." Our driver was wit boiled down. He 
was a young man, and the lady sitting next to me 
called him, in a familiar way, " Bill." He drove his 
fine animal quite briskly, and I bounced about on the 
seat, and felt a little uncertain whether I would 
stay there or not, with all my holding on. I 
asked him whether he had any shoemakers' wax, 
to which he replied, in the broadest Irish I had 
heard in all my travels, "What does yez want with 



134 A BACHELOR'S RAMBLES 

that ?" "To put on the seat," I replied, "for I shall 
not be able to stay much longer, at the rate you are 
driving." "Shoemaker's wax we've not," he said, 
"but it's cobbler's we have." We had not proceeded 
far before it began to rain, " L,et me off," I said, " I 
will go back to the hotel; I don't care to go any 
further in the rain." "Sit yez still; it is nothin' 
but the prasperation comin' from the mountain," he 
said, in a way that caused me to laugh so loud they 
heard me on the other car, though some distance away. 
Then he and the lady carried on a conversation that 
called forth one continuous roar of laughter. "You 
could make your living in America very nicely," I 
said to him. "What at, lying?" the lady remarked. 
" Well," said he, "If they were as well pleased with 
a lie as with the truth, and paid me for it, what would 
be the difference?" I said to him, after I had partly 
ceased laughing, "There's a heap in that head of 
yours." "Yes," said he, "more than yez would be 
knockin' out with a comb." The rain ceased about as 
quickly as it commenced, and we drove to the gate of a 
large domain, attended by an old man, who insisted 
upon our paying him a certain amount for allowing us 
to go through, but, after a long and heated debate 
between him and the parties on the head car, we were 
allowed to pass through for considerable less. The 
drive was delightful through this fine estate to Muckross 
Abbey. From my pocket guide book I learned the 
ruins were a church and abbey founded 1440, and 
partly rebuilt in 1602, and is yet in a fairly good con- 
dition ; in the enclosure of these old ruins were several 
very ancient looking tombs. I stood on five of them, 



THROUGH THE BRITISH ISLES. 135 

beneath which, I was informed, the five kings of 
Ireland were buried. We remained some time at this 
interesting old place ; leaving here, we rode along a fine 
driveway overlooking a lake lying between the moun- 
tains. One would have to see the scenery here to appre- 
ciate its grandeur ; words are inadequate to describe it. 
We stopped at an old cave, the entire party, with the 
exception of myself, going through. The entrance 
was small, and the exit much smaller, so I contented 
myself with merely looking in, and concluded not to 
enter the gloomy cavern , for it might be rather trying 
on my clothing as well as on my huge frame. " Bill " 
called out and said : " Are you not going in ?" "No," 
I replied, "not a foot of me; my bones will be 
in a place like that soon enough." He, with his ready 
wit, said: "Ah, there is a way out of that, though 
there'll not be out of the grave." We rode along the 
mountain side until we came to a quaint old house, 
and then left the jaunting cars and crossed a ravine, 
down which a little sparkling stream came tumbling 
over the rocks and formed a small waterfall near where 
we passed. We climbed up the side of the mountain 
and gained the top, and with great delight " viewed 
the landscape o'er," and I am sure my eyes never 
rested on grander scenery. The Irish gentleman 
pointed out the spot where a tourist had, only a short 
time previous, ventured too near the precipice and was 
crushed on the rocks several hundred feet below. I 
kept my distance, for I was anxious to again see old 
friends in America. Just before " Bill " and the other 
driver turned their horses' heads homeward, this same 
Irish gentleman, who seemed familiar with that section 



136 A BACHELOR'S RAMBLES 

of the country, and with the ways of the people, 
especially the drivers, came around to each one for a fee 
for " Bill " and his partner. Our bundle of wit said : 
' ' This is our harvest ; there is nothing left us 
here in the winter, but the fireside and the lunatic 
asylum ; I generally go to the asylum . ' ' When I 
returned to the hotel and paid the few shillings for that 
enjoyable ride, I considered it money well spent. 
' ' Bill ' ' and the Lakes of Killarney are indellibly 
impressed on my memory. I took a walk through the 
main streets, stopped in one of the stores and purchased 
a blackthorn cane, which I brought to America. 

Thursday, July 19. — Went by early train to 
Malloy, and from there to the city of Cork. I was 
curious to see the old city, having heard so much 
about it. In passing through its streets, it impressed 
me as being a very busy place, although there are 
comparatively few manufacturing places there. It has 
a population of about So, 000, and has a number of 
very good business thoroughfares. It was market day, 
and the streets were filled with people buying and 
selling. Most of the market women looked as though 
they belonged back in the long-ago. They wore 
ancient looking bonnets with white caps, whose frills 
were conspicuous. Some of them were apparently 
very fond of their clay pipes. The little donkeys, 
overshadowed by carts loaded with produce, amused me. 
Was directed by a policeman to the Y. M. C. A. hall. 
The secretary, Mr. B , showed me through the build- 
ing, which is one of the best equipped halls that I have 
ever been in. They have a fine gymnasium, and quite 
a large audience-room. Mr. B introduced me to 



THROUGH THE BRITISH ISLES. 137 

Mr. George W , who organized the outdoor meet- 
ings in Cork, and who has been subject to so much 
persecution from some of the rough element of the 
city . While at the hall , met a number of good, sociable 
men and engaged in a pleasant conversation with them, 
which gave me a homelike feeling. One of them was 
a professor of music, and seemed to be a perfect mas- 
ter of the organ. Oncoming from the hall, heard a 
brass band discoursing a fine air, and on reaching one 
of the main streets, found it on the lead of a large cir- 
cus parade, which had drawn the people from far and 
near, for the streets were thronged ; and children ! 
well, from the vast number that were following the 
parade I concluded that Ireland, even though she had 
furnished America with a good portion of her popula- 
tion, would be well able to keep up her record. The 
clerk who waited on me in a store where I made some 
purchases said, as I used an expression familiar only in 
America, " I thought you were a native of our coun- 
try until I heard you express yourself just now ;" and 
so from Londonderry to Cork they claimed that if I did 
live in America, I was born in Ireland. As I traveled 
through this beautiful island and mingled with her 
people, I concluded that no one need hesitate to 
acknowledge coming from such a grand country. In 
passing along St. Patrick street, saw the statue of 
Father Matthews, a man who was very earnest in the 
great cause of temperance. Went to St. Ann's Church, 
built 1722, and which has a spire 120 feet high ; it is 
said to be one of the most interesting churches in Cork; 
it was crowded with devout worshippers. The cathe- 
dral of St. Fionn Bar is a large and beautiful structure. 



i 3 S A BACHELOR'S RAMBLES 

I wrote ray name in the record book, then leisurely- 
walked through the cathedral and greatly admired 
its beauty, especially the altar. On coming out, met a 
Catholic priest on the opposite side of the street, and 
remarked to him : "That is a fine structure; I thought, 
when I entered, it was a Catholic cathedral. ' ' ' ' No, ' ' he 
said, " it is a Protestant." We engaged in conversa- 
tion along a religious line, and exchanged our views in 
such a way that neither took offense. Went by train 
to the celebrated Blarney Castle, a distance of five 
miles, and paid a sixpence at the entrance of the park. 
The Castle is of stone, with a tower 120 feet high, and 
was built by Comae McCarthy in the fifteenth century. 
The attendant, who is an old lady, said to me : " Don't 
be coram' down without yez kiss the Blarney stone." 
I climbed up the old stone stairway, and on reaching 
the top inquired of a young man where the famous 
stone was. He kindly pointed it out to me ; it was on 
a projecting buttress between two iron bars. There is 
a battlement around the top of the castle, and in order 
to kiss the stone it is necessary to be held by the heels 
while you perform this wonderful feat . When he informed 
me how it was reached, my desire was not strong enough 
to take the risk of being gathered up from below 
in a condition to be laid away in some cemetery in Old 
Ireland. I heard a secretary from England relating 
his experience of being held by the feet while he gave 
the stone his compliments. Once was sufficient for 
him, he said. When I came down, the old lady 
said: "Did you kiss the Blarney stone?" "No," I 
replied, "I will save my kisses until I get back to 
America. I'll not waste them on a stone." The 



THROUGH THE BRITISH ISLES. 139 

park, in which the castle stands, is nicely shaded, and 
is used as a quiet little picnic resort. There were 
several private parties there then, who seemed to be 
having a pleasant time. I remained there a short time 
and wrote up my diary for the day. Spent the even- 
ing in the Y. M. C. A. hall with a Mr. McC , who 

gave me considerable information about the city. 
William Penn, founder of Pennsylvania, was converted 
to Quakerism in the city of Cork. 

Friday, July 20. — Left the city of Cork at 10:30 
A. m. for the city of Limerick. At the station a 
mother seemed very much distressed, for her daughter, 
a young lady of about eighteen years, was leaving 
home for a distant city. As the train moved off, 
leaving the mother on the platform, the daughter, who 
was in the compartment I was in, burst into a flood of 
tears. I remarked to her, " It is rather hard, parting 
with friends." "Oh, yes," she replied, "I am 
leaving home for the first time." But the tears were 
soon brushed away, for when the train moved slowly 
into the station at Limerick, I noticed a tall, handsome 
young man walking along and looking very anxiously 
into the different compartments, and when their eyes 
met, the sunshine came into both of their faces. It 
might have been her big brother, but I thought there 
was too much sentiment for a tie of that sort. The 
country from Cork to Limerick is quite as fine as in 
any part of Ireland. I noticed a great many thrifty 
looking farms, and I should judge the soil was very 
fertile. Limerick has a population of 40,000. I have 
heard a great deal about the city, for I have an old 
friend who lived there when young. Some of the 



i4o A BACHELOR'S RAMBLES 

buildings had the appearance of being very ancient. 
There were some very pretty parts which I passed 
through. As I had only a few hours to remain there, 
I kept on the move. I passed down the principal 
thoroughfare, on which were a number of attractive 
looking stores, then over one of the bridges spanning 
the river Shannon, into a section where there were 
a number of little, forlorn looking shanties. There 
are several nice churches in this city, which is 
something that graces any city or town. I called on 

Rev. Mr. A , pastor of the Wesleyan Church. 

He had just been appointed there, his last charge 
being in Belfast. He and his wife welcomed me 
to their home, and made my short stay in L,imeriek 
a very pleasant one. In bidding them good bye, 
I felt I was able to add two more choice friends 
of the good old Irish type to my already lengthy list. 
A journey of a few miles brought me to the town of 

Tipperary, where I called on Mr. H , father of one 

of the gentlemen I met at Londonderry. He keeps a 
large drapery (or dry goods store, as we would style it), 
and has quite a number of clerks in his employ, most 
of whom board with him, that being the custom in 
that country. He insisted on my remaining with him 
over night. He and his son, a young man, comprise 
his immediate family, his wife being deceased. His 
housekeeper was a very agreeable lady, and spared no 
pains to make my visit pleasant. She was a devout 

Roman Catholic, as were all the clerks. Mr. H 

is a Methodist, the only one in the town, but I was in- 
formed he had the respect of the entire community, 
irrespective of creed. After tea Mr. H showed 



THROUGH THE BRITISH ISLES. 141 

me through the town. It contains a large Catholic 
church, a Presbyterian church, and Church of Ireland; 
there are three banks, and several stores of fair size. 
We went to New Tipperary, which is at the extreme 
end of the old town, and built within a few years past. 
We passed a number of little cabins in going there, 
and as I looked into the open doors I wondered how 
people managed to live in such a small place, especially 
some of the families, who seemed to have a good 
supply of children. We stood on the top of Mutton 
Pie Hill, and from its peak had a good view of the 
country and town. It rained nearly every day I was 
in Ireland, so while up on this hill, which bears such 
a suggestive name (especially to a hungry man), down 
came the usual shower-bath, and compelled us to hur- 
riedly seek shelter. 

Saturday, July 21. — Mr. H accompanied me 

to the railroad station, and while waiting for the train 
we gathered some shamrock. Deft Tipperary on the 8 
a. m. train for Dublin ; passed through Goold's Cross, 
Cashnell, Templemore, Ballybrophy and one or two 
more towns, which, a gentleman sitting next to me 
informed me, were in County Tipperary ; Mount Rath, 
Marysborough, Port Arlington, in Queen's County. In 
Kildair, saw the cavalrymen drilling on a splendid 
drill-ground. We arrived in Dublin at 11:45 a.m. 

Secretaty B gladdened my heart by presenting me 

some mail matter from home. Mr. S invited me 

to spend the evening with him at Kingstown, and as 
the yachts Vigilant and Brittania were to race there in 

the afternoon, Secretary B requested me to go with 

him to witness the race. It was a gala day at Kings- 



142 A BACHELOR'S RAMBLES 

town harbor, and an immense crowd were gathered there. 
We walked out on the long pier and saw the boats 
coming in the distance, the Vigilant on the lead, and 

while on the pier, met Mr. F , and we went to Mr. 

B 's and sat by the window and saw the boats pass 

that were causing so much excitement on both sides of 

the Atlantic. Mr. B said to me, " of course you 

are rejoicing to see the Vigilant coming in ahead." 
"Well," I replied, " I have been claimed as a native 
of the "Old Sod " so much I can scarcely tell which 

one I am interested in." In the evening Mr. S and 

myself went to Victoria Mountain and Killiney Hill, 
which overlooks Kingstown, and from which can be 
seen the town of Bray, in County Wicklow. We re- 
mained until it began to grow dark, and the lights at 
Bray and Kingstown were a fine sight. 

Sunday, July 22. — Went to the Centenary Wes- 
leyan Chapel, at Stephen's Green. The Rev. Wesley 

G , the pastor, preached a grand sermon. From 

where I sat he had the appearance of a comparatively 

young man. In a conversation with a Rev. Mr. B 

the next day, I remarked that Rev. Mr. G was a 

rising young preacher. He laughed and said, " he is 
as old as I am, ' ' and he was a man well advanced in life. 
He remarked that several had been mistaken like myself, 
seeing him at a distance. In the afternoon, attended 
the Sabbath school of the Lower Abbey Street Wesleyan 
Chapel. The superintendent requested me to teach a 
class of young lads, and after teaching the lesson, I gave 
them an account of Sunday school work in America. 
They were very much interested. I did not think any 
one knew me, and was much surprised when the pas- 



THROUGH THE BRITISH ISLES. 143 

tor came to me and requested me to sing "A Sinner 
Like Me," as he understood I had written it. A young 

man, whose name was W P , came to me at 

the close and said : "I told the pastor about you ; I 
met you at the Hall." Went to the service at this old 
church in the evening, and heard the newly appointed 
pastor preach on, " It is a Faithful Saying," etc. At 
9 p. m., found a large gathering at the Y. M. C. A. 
hall, and did what I could to advance the Master's 
Kingdom there. So closed my second Sabbath in 
Dublin. 

Monday, July 23. — L,eft Harcourt Street Station at 
9:30 for Fox Rock, a suburb six miles from Dublin, 
containing many splendid homes with well arranged 
grounds. Relatives of particular friends of mine in 
America live there. I called at their fine home, 
expecting to remain there only a short time, then take 
the train for Bray, in County Wicklow, but while 

in conversation with Miss G , her mother 

ordered the groom to harness the horse to the 
jaunting car, and, when she came into the parlor, 
said she had planned a drive for us to County 
Wicklow, and intended returning by way of Bray. 
I had learned considerable of the hospitality of that 
country, and accepted the invitation. Just as Miss 

G and her mother and I were about leaving the 

house for the drive, the Rev. Mr. B , a fine old 

gentleman, pastor of a church on the suburbs of 

Dublin, called, and Mrs. G invited him to 

accompany us. As we rode down through the Scalp, 
the large rocks, which were piled up on each side like 
a huge wall, looked as though they had fallen from 



144 A BACHELOR'S RAMBLES 

the side of the mountain and the road had been cut 
through them. The roads all through the British Isles 
are well made and exceedingly level, so that one 
enjoys a ride over them very much. We stopped at 
Lord Powerscourt's domain, in County Wicklow. The 
scenery is very romantic . Between the mountains is a 
broad ravine with a beautiful stream of water hurrying 
down the rocks and finding its way out into the sea. 

Miss G drove around to the entrance at the other 

end of this large and grand domain, and we walked 
leisurely through it, and I enjoyed every moment I 
spent there. We met an old man with a violin, sitting 

on a rock. Mrs. G requested him to play one of 

their popular airs. He brought the music out of his 
instrument in a way that indicated he had been using 
the bow for many years. As we stood on a ledge of 
rocks and looked down into the ravine below, I wished 
for a kodak, that I might get the picture to carry 

back to America. Rev. B was quite a poet, and 

read us some of his latest poems. We passed through 

the grounds and joined Miss G again, and drove 

down through Bray, which is a pleasant town on 
the coast. On our way homeward we passed through a 
little town, and saw two small children, one of whom 
was entirely blind ; the}^ began begging for pennies, and 
we threw them some ; this encouraged them to con- 
tinue their asking, and the girl grasped the hand of the 
blind boy and ran down the road after us for quite a 
distance. I was informed that Ireland was a land of 
beggars, but I saw comparatively few of them. At 
least there were not many that annoyed me ; they 
may have had an idea that my funds were low. When 



THROUGH THE BRITISH ISLES. 145 

we returned to the house, a dinner that would do 
credit to any home awaited us, which I most 

thoroughly enjoyed. Rev. Mr. B and I returned 

to Dublin and I took a walk along the Quay, past the 
Four Courts, and saw St. Patrick's Cathedral in the 
distance. It is said to be built on the spot where St. 
Patrick built a church, and near a well where he 
baptized his converts. I bade good bye to many of 
those whom I have every reason to call genuine friends, 
and began making preparations to leave the Emerald 
Isle, for which I shall always have a good warm 

feeling. Mr. W P invited me to spend the 

evening with him at his home. He is a young man in 
whom I was deeply interested, and, if the way is 
opened for him, will make a useful man to the 
Wesleyan Church, of which he is a member. When I 

bade Secretary B good bye, I said to him : "If ever 

I should have the pleasure of meeting you or any of my 
friends from this side of the Atlantic in America, I 
will use the same club of kindness that you have 
beaten me with. A few months agohe came over to 
attend the Y. M. C. A. Convention at Springfield, 
Mass., and at its close spent a few days with me, and I 
did my best to square accounts with him. His 
discourse at Tabernacle M. E. Church, Camden, N. J., 
on Sunday, and the ones at Bethany M. E. Church and 
at the Y. M. C. A. hall, in the afternoon, gave the 
people who heard him an idea of the kind of lads that 
grow in Ireland. 

Tuesday, July 24.— Left the old city of Dublin 
from North Wall for Holyhead, Wales, and ran into a 
storm before getting out of the river Diffey, and, upon 
10 



146 A BACHELOR'S RAMBLES 

reaching the mouth of the river, saw that the Irish Sea 
was bent on having a row with our steamer. We had 
not gotten far beyond the point called Ireland's Eye 
before the angry waves began to dash over us. It 
seemed to be the day for settling up accounts, for nearly 
every one was busy. Among the passengers were a 
number of soldiers, going home on furloughs : they 
may have been very valiant on land, but the old Irish 
Sea was a "wee bit" too much for them, and from 
the appearance of some, she nearly used them up. 
Where was Butler ? some one might ask. Well, he 
was busy ciphering with the rest, and sighing for a 

quiet harbor. In a letter I wrote to Mr. B after 

returning to England, told him I had formed a strong 
attachment for Ireland and many of her sons and 
daughters, but had no love for the Irish sea, for no 
sooner was I in her grasp than she robbed me of my 
morning meal, and tussled with me for the previous 
one. That ride of a few hours on the belligerant Irish 
Sea was more uncomfortable than my trip across the 
Atlantic. The chopped sea is trying to a ship, but 
more so to a person not accustomed to that kind of 
treatment. We took the train at Holyhead, and was 
soon hurrying along through the romantic country 
of North Wales. Would like very much to have 
spent some time there, for the mountain scenery was 
charming. On the steamer I became quite well 

acquainted with a Mr. L, , of Westport, County 

Mayo, Ireland, and we rode together on the train as 
far as Bangor. The tubular bridge, in Wales, inter- 
ested me. Passed through a great many pretty towns 
in Wales and England. Wolverhampton is a large 



THROUGH THE BRITISH ISLES. H7 

manufacturing town in England. Arrived at Harborn 
at 9 p. m., and enjoyed another pleasant evening at 
"my English home." 





Back Again to Old England. 

EDNESDAY, July 25.— Went to the 
Wesleyan Church at St. Martin's 
and Islington road, the seat of the 
British Conference. The admission 
was by ticket. One of the minis- 
ters interested himself in trying to 
get me a ticket, but the demand 
had been so great that he failed, 
so I went back to Harborn. The 
public schools had their annual celebration on the 

cricket fields near Mr. P 's home, and the field 

sports, running matches, and the excellent drill given 
by the lancers, pleased the large concourse of people 
greatly. I availed myself of an opportunity of giving 
a temperance lecture to a young man from London, 
whom I met on the grounds, but he failed to see the 
danger of strong drink, which has been the overthrow 
of so many. The fireworks in the evening were mag- 
nificent, especially the last piece, entitled, "Thanks to 
All." 

Thursday, July 26. — The Sabbath school of the 
old Harborn Church and the day school joined in a 
celebration and parade ; they made a nice display, 
passing through the streets. I assisted in trimming 
the national school-room, where the children were 
lunched. In the afternoon they finished the day 
on the field adjoining the rector's residence, some 
of the young people — and a sprinkling of the 



THROUGH THE BRITISH ISLES. 149 

older ones, too — joining in the merry dance. The 
brass band played some airs that made the dancers 
bound quite lively. As I watched the children and 
older people enjoying themselves with various games, 
I concluded that English people get out of a picnic all 
there is in it. 

Friday, July 27.— Mr. P and I went to 

the steamship office in Birmingham, where I engaged 
my berth on the steamer " South wark," sailing for 
Philadelphia on August 2 2d ; from there we went 
by tram to Hands worth, a part of Birmingham, and 
went through the old Handsworth church. Like all 
the old churches, there were old tablets and marble 
slabs with the names of some who lived far back in 
the past. There was a short service held while we 
were there; the congregation was very small, consist- 
ing of four ladies, Mr. P , and myself. Mr. P 

said the rector read the service at that hour, whether 
there was any one there or not. On my return to 
Harborn, stopped at the seat of the British Conference. 
Went into the chapel -yard just in time to assist in 
caring for a little boy, a son of one of the ministers, who 
had suddenly fallen in a fainting fit, and was thought by 
his anxious father and mother to be dying, but after 
some remedies were applied by a physician, he 
recovered sufficiently to be removed to their home in a 
carriage. In the evening I was invited to the home of 

W C 's head gardener, and with the good 

natured, jolly Englishman and his family, spent the 
evening very pleasantly. 

Saturday, July 28. — Left Birmingham by the 
Great Western Railroad for Stratford-on-Avon, and 



i 5 o A BACHELOR'S RAMBLES 

arrived there at n A. m. Called on the secretary of the 
little Y. M. C. A., and after a short talk with him, he 
accompanied me to the old church where Shakespeare 
and his wife are buried. I admired the quiet old town 
as I passed through its wide, clean looking streets on 
my way to this historic church. The grave of 
Shakespeare is inside the chancel rail, a plain flagstone 
marking the spot. On the chancel wall is a bust of 
the great poet. There was an old Bible with 
the record of his baptism. The churchyard which 
overlooks the beautiful river Avon, contains a great 
many very old tombstones. Leaving there, we walked 
over to Ann Hathaway 's cottage, in the little village 
of Shottery. It was a beautiful walk of about one 
mile through the meadows. I came to an old thatched 
roof cottage, and thought it looked ancient enough for 
the Hathaway cottage, but found I was mistaken and 
was directed to it by a policeman. I went to the 
door and was met by a small girl, who informed me 
the admittance fee was a sixpence. On entering 
this, the quaintest house I was ever in, I met an old 

lady, the attendant, Mrs. B by name, who 

informed me she was a descendent of Ann Hathaway, 
and began showing me some of the old relics. In the 
old chimney corner was a ham closet which she said 
was used in Ann Hathaway 's time, and an old oaken 
bench that she was very particular in telling me Shake- 
speare and Ann were supposed to have sat on when 
courting. I said to her : "Let me sit on it ; I may get 
an inspiration," but she kept on with her description of 
the various old pieces of furniture without paying 
much attention to my request. She showed me an 



THROUGH THE BRITISH ISLES. 151 

old table and some chinaware that belonged to Ann. 
A lady and gentleman came in while she was showing 
me through, and while she was repeating the old, 
old story to them, I wrote in my note book, sitting by 
the table referred to. She said to us: "There is an 
old bedstead upstairs that I will show you ; it belonged 
to Ann Hathaway, and is 400 years old." So 
we followed the old lady (who informed us she was 
eighty years of age) to the room above. She gave us 
the history of this old bedstead, which looked solid 
enough to stand as many more years. As I was look- 
ing at the walls, which were completely covered with 
names, she said: "Oliver Wendell Holmes wrote his 
name on these walls when here on a visit, but it is 
against the rules to write on them now." I replied: 
"It is because there is no more room, if that is the 
rule." I am not given to putting my name in public 
places, but concluded that if possible my name should 
be among those on these walls. Near the window I saw 
a space and hurriedly wrote my name while she was 
engaged in conversation with the lady and gentleman, 
but just as I was finishing, she looked up and said: 
" Oh, don't do that," and repeated, " it's against the 
rule." I do not often break the rules of any place I 
visit, but the temptation was too strong to resist. 
When I was leaving the cottage she said to me, "You 
can pick some leaves from that bush near the old 
well, which I did, and pressed them in my guide book, 
and also drank from the old well. The lady informed 
me she had lived in the cottage for seventy years . From 
there I walked back to Stratford with the gentleman 
and his wife, who were from Worcester. I was sur- 



152 A BACHELOR'S RAMBLES 

prised when they informed me they had never visited 
Ann Hathaway 's cottage before, although living only a 
few miles from it. Then I visited Shakespeare's old 
home. The first floor is a museum containing relics 
which belonged to this noted man ; among them was a 
sword, and a letter written by Mr. Richard Quyney to 
Shakespeare in 1589, and some early editions of some of 
his first plays. I wrote my name in the visitors' book, 
where I noticed the names of a great many Americans. 
From the museum, I climbed the quaint old stairway 
and went into the room where, nearly three hundred 
years ago, this wonderful character made his advent 
into this great world. It is said this room is in its 
original state, except that persons from various parts 
of the world have written their names on the walls until 
there does not appear to be space enough to write anoth- 
er. It is said Byron, Scott, Washington Irving, George 
IV. — the Prince of Orange — the Duke of Wellington, 
Tom Moore, and Dickens are among the noted men 
who have inscribed their names on the walls. I 
was shown into a very small room, which one of the 
attendants told me was used by Shakespeare's father 
as a wool-room. The Shakespeare Memorial, a* mon- 
ument erected by the late George W. Childs, of Phila- 
delphia, is quite an ornament to the beautiful town of 
Stratford. As I sat on a bench in the old churchyard 
on the banks of the river Avon, I saw in the distance 
the handsome Shakespeare Memorial Theatre . As I left 
this interesting old town, I thought the day spent there 
would long to be remembered. I have already referred 
to my expected visit to Worcestershire. I had purposed 
spending a month in and around South Littleton, and 



THROUGH THE BRITISH ISLES. 153 

had engaged my boarding place, but spent more time in 
other parts than I intended, so could only stay in this 
locality for a few days. It is a ride of about fourteen 
miles from Stratford-on-Avon to South Littleton. I 

had written to Mr. B , a relative of my old friend, 

Mr. R , of Camden, New Jersey, that I would be 

there on Saturday afternoon, and when I left the train 
expected to find him at the station , but saw no one that 
I thought answered his description. Upon inquiring 
of the station master, he, pointing to a young man 
sitting in a cart a little beyond the station, said : "there 
is his son, waiting for you." There was a huge smile 
that took possession of his face when he saw me ap- 
proaching the cart. He seemed greatly pleased to see 
me, and gave me a look that seemed to say, "if you 
are a sample, they must raise some tall lads in America. ' ' 
I seated myself beside him ; he applied the home- 
made whip to the animal, and I was soon bouncing 
along toward the little town, whose church spire I 
could see about a mile distant. We rode through the 
quiet, old-fashioned town, passing down a little street 
just beside the old church. As we drove up to the 
house, which is more than 200 years old, the mother 
and the other two sons came out, and any one would 
have thought, by the warm welcome I received, that I 
was a relative coming home. When I came to the 
door, found it necessary for me to bend considerably in 
order to avoid a collision with the top. The floors 
were of stone, laid, I judge, in whatever manner the 
builder of long-ago happened to gather hold of them. 
There were the old open fire-place, with a tea kettle 
hanging from a long hook, boiling away for my benefit, 



i 5 4 A BACHELOR'S RAMBLES 

and seats in the chimney corner, upon which I 
frequently sat and sang, accompanied by my autoharp. 

Mr. B , who was obliged to go to Evesham, a town 

a few miles away, on business, came home shortly after 
my arrival, and as we gathered around the family board 
and partook of the palatable meal prepared by the 

good lady, Mrs. B , and talked of the friends in 

far-away America, I had the same homelike feeling 
that took possession of me when visiting a great 
number of homes through the British Isles. Board 

had been engaged for me at the home of Mr. M , 

the village blacksmith, in another part of the town. 
While on our way there, in passing the church- 
yard, they pointed out a freshly made grave 
and said to me : ' ' They buried the remains of a young 
man there this afternoon, who, while on a drunken 
debauch, blew his brains out. He left a wife, two 
small children and a widowed mother. I met 
them a few days afterward, coming from the grave- 
yard, and I thought as I saw that sorrow stricken young 
widow, and the mother, who was being supported by 
the hands of kind friends, as they led her back to their 
desolate home, surely every Christian, as well as good- 
inclined people ought to be engaged in trying to crush 
out the great "Demon Rum." The house in which 

Mr. M lived was a large, comfortable one, but 

quite as old as the one I had just left. The old 
stone floors, and chimney corner, and old-fashioned 
windows, with their broad casements, which could be 
used as a seat very nicely, and in which I sat 
and wrote to the friends at home, struck me as being 
very quaint. The family at home consisted of Mrs. 



THROUGH THE BRITISH ISLES. 155 

M and her daughter, a young lady who showed the 

excellent trait of being kind and attentive to her mother. 
Mr. M was away on business ; the other four mem- 
bers of the family, with the exception of a very bright, 
intelligent girl of about fourteen, who was living at 
Evesham, were married and live some distance away. I 
was soon made to feel at home, and in the few days I spent 
there, everything was done to make my stay a pleasant 

one. Mrs. M said to me : "Mr. Butler, I never saw 

an American before; you seem very much like our 
own people," and I am sure I felt as though after such 
pleasant associations with the people during my sojourn 
in the British Isles, that they were ' ' bone of my bone 
and flesh of my flesh." 

Sunday, July 29. — There is an organization of 
about twenty persons who meet in a small hall for 

worship. Mr. B is a member; he came to the 

house and invited me to go with him to the men's 
Bible class, which meets in the morning. I found 
them earnestly engaged in studying the Bible, and was 
quite interested in listening to old and young giving 
very intelligent answers to the questions being asked. 
There is a chain of little towns in this rural district — 
South Littleton, Middle Littleton, North Littleton, 
Badesy and several others in a radius of a 
few miles — and this Bible class was made up of 
men from these towns. In the afternoon, visited 
a man living near by who had been helpless 
with rheumatism for nine years, and in the meantime 
had had several hemorrhages. He had one of the 
most interesting faces I ever looked into, and was a 
man of considerable intelligence and possessed Christian 



156 A BACHELOR'S RAMBLES 

resignation. I frequently went into his humble little 
home and sang for him. He would often request me 
to play and sing, " In That City," and say to me, as a 
smile would play over his face, " I expect to soon be 
there," and, like my old Scotch friend that I visited at 
Sterling, he has since gone to live in that " Heavenly 
City." In the evening the hall was crowded with an 
attentive congregation. At the close of the service I 
was requested to give them an entertainment some even- 
ing during the week. I informed them I had never been 
the central figure in an entertainment, but would do 
my best. 

Monday, July 30. — Mr. W B and I went 

through the old church — the original one built 
nine hundred years ago — and through the yard, which 
contains many old tombs, some of which date back as 
far as 1690. Some of the readers may think I have a 
weakness for wandering through old graveyards, and I 
confess, whenever I passed an old church or church- 
yard, I felt inclined to halt and read the quaint old 

epitaphs. Mr. B and I walked to Bidford, a town 

four miles distant, and in going there passed through 
some of the towns I have already mentioned. Bid- 
ford is a neat, pretty little town situated along the river 
Avon, which flows through this beautiful country. 

This was the old home of Mrs. R , wife of my 

friend, Mr. R , and she desired me to inquire after 

her relatives, whom she had not heard from for years. 

Mr. B introduced me to an old man who, when I 

inquired about the relatives of this lady, said to me : 
"I know them very well, and I remember her fifty 
years ago . ' ' He directed us to where one of her brothers 



THROUGH THE BRITISH ISLES. 157 

was at work on a farm on the outskirts of the town. 
We inquired for him of some women who were picking 
berries. One of them said : " You are from America." 
"Yes," I replied. "Well, I have an old aunt living 

with a Mr. L, , in St. Louis," she further remarked. 

" That is several hundred miles from where I live," I 
said. One of the women said: " I am the wife of the 

nephew of Mrs. R and will call Mr. B , my 

uncle." When the old man came to where we were, 
and I told him that I was requested to call on him, by 
his sister in America, he was quite broken up, and 
said : " I thought she was dead years ago. And is my 
sister living?" It surely was good news from a far- 
away country to that old man. In the evening, quite a 

number of the young people met at Mr. B 's, and I 

sat in the old seat in the chimney corner and enter- 
tained them with several harp solos and a description 
of the wonderful country from whence I came. 

Tuesday, July 31. — Sat in the old window case 
and wrote a long descriptive letter to my uncle, 
who had written to me expressing himself as 
desirous of being with me, to rummage through the 
old ruins of England. In this old town, nearly every 
house gave evidence of having been built when our 
country was in its infancy. Most of the day was spent 
in practicing for the coming entertainment. Miss 

M was an excellent violinist, and Mr. F 

B understood how to get the sweet strains from 

this instrument also, and a Mr. J , of Birmingham, 

who was visiting in the village, could use his voice in 
song quite well, so I began making up a fair program. 
After a delightful walk to the new home which Mr. 



i 5 8 A BACHELOR'S RAMBLES 

B was building, I returned and spent the evening 

at Mrs. M 's, with a number of friends who were 

interested in the concert, which was being advertised 
in the villages. It was looked forward to as being one 
of the greatest events in years, and I thought it would 
be when I appeared on the stage. 

Wednesday, August i. — Went by train to the 
town of Evesham, about four miles away. I did not 
think to find it such a large and interesting place. Its 
ancient looking houses and buildings so attracted me 
that I spent nearly the whole day there. I passed 
through a very narrow street to two old churches 
which stand near each other, surrounded by a large 
old churchyard. They were built near the line of two 
parishes, divided by an old bell tower built in 1520. 
Near the Roman Arch is an old house, which, an old 
man informed me, was the only original one in the 
town. In making some purchases at one of the stores, 
I had a long conversation with the proprietor and 
another gentleman, and found they, like most people of 
that country, were quite willing to listen to an 
account of America. The river Avon divides the 
town, and some of the residences have beautiful lawns 
sloping to the edge of the river. Near the bridge 
which spanned the river at one of the main streets, I 
saw a sign on a public house, as they style them over 
there, bearing the name of "The Angel Inn." I 
thought surely that is not an appropriate name for a 
place of that kind, but afterward concluded it was, for 
I remembered there were two kinds of angels. I 
remained in this interesting old town until late in the 
afternoon, and think I saw it pretty thoroughly. 



THROUGH THE BRITISH ISLES. 159 

This was the evening of the grand vocal and instru- 
mental concert, and long before the time for the 
commencement, the village lasses had donned their 
best gowns, and with the lads of their choice were 
making their way to the hall. When the talent 
arrived we had great difficulty in getting to the 
platform, for young and old had packed the little hall. 
The concert began at the appointed time, with Butler 
the most conspicuous of all the talent (for they were 
all of small stature), master of ceremonies. We had 
been very economical in getting up our programs. I 
think we had but two, and they were not very elabo- 
rate; only a plain piece of paper with the order of 

exercises written with lead pencil. Miss M and Mr. 

B gave some very good violin solos, and Mr. J 

sang some pieces which called forth heavy encores. I 
was sandwiched in with an autoharp solo, and was 
requested to sing and play, " Old Folks at Home," and 
then give them a short address on the colored race. 
Very few had ever seen a Negro. "God Save the 
Queen" was the closing piece. Well, our homespun 
concert, gotten up by Butler, the amateur professor, 
was appreciated by the entire audience. The proceeds 
were for the organ fund. 

Thursday, August 2. — I had a very pressing 
invitation to go with a number of persons from the 
different towns, on a picnic to the town of Broadway, 
seven miles distant, standing on a high hill. They 
told me it was the oldest town in that vicinity, and 
were anxious that I should see it, but my days in 
England were numbered, and it was necessary for me 
to pack my bundle and be on the move. I made the 



160 A BACHELOR'S RAMBLES 

acquaintance of some excellent people in this as well 
as in the adjoining villages. I was interested in 
getting the young men organized into a society of some 
kind, which would fit them for greater usefulness, and 
talked to a number of them about it, and promised, 
when I returned to London, to get some plans in 
printed form from the secretary of the Y. M. C. A. at 
Exeter Hall. Left on the 5 p. m. train for Birmingham, 
arriving at Harborn in time to spend the evening 
with the kind friends there. 

Friday, August 3. — Mr. E P and I went 

to Birmingham and called at Cook's office and made 
inquiry concerning a trip to Antwerp, Belgium, then 
sallied forth to see more of this fine old city. Some 
of its streets had become quite familiar to me. We 

were invited to the home of a Mr. D , a druggist 

by whom Mr. E P was formerly employed, 

and I spent a few hours very pleasantly in another 
good old English home. Another budget of mail 
awaited me when I returned to Harborn. It seemed 
strange as I read of the extreme heat in America — the 
thermometer crowding beyond ioo° — for I had been 
using my overcoat and heavy clothing most of the 
summer. It was moderately warm through the day, 
but in the evening, as a rule, it was cool enough for a 
" top coat." I enjoyed a long walk through the town 
of Harborn, and returning, stood on the hill near the 
church, where I had a view of the country for miles 
around. 

Saturday, August 4. — Purchased my ticket at 
Cook's office for Antwerp, and left on the 11:20 a. m. 
express for London. It was the Saturday prior to 



THROUGH THE BRITISH ISLES. 161 

Bank Holiday, and the trains were greatly crowded. 
Hundreds of people were leaving the city for points all 
along the road. We changed cars at Leicester, a town 
of considerable size, having the appearance of being a 
beautiful place. I left by the through line, and as 
there were comparatively few going from this point to 
London, most of the passengers taking the train I would 
have taken but for a slight misunderstanding, I rode all 
the way, the sole occupant of the compartment. In 
traveling in England, one has to look out for himself 
generally. The guards, as a rule, are gentlemanly, 
but are not so particular in informing you of the changes 
as they might be . I arrived there at 3 : 30 p . m . and went 
to my old quarters on Bernard street, and then called 

on Mr. H S , and then took the long ride 

to Stamford Hill and spent another enjoyable 

evening at "Hope Lodge," with Friend S and 

family. 

Sunday, August 5. — I was pleased to be able to 
spend another Sunday in London. When I went to 
the Great Queen Street Church, it seemed something 
like going back home. The friends gave me a hearty 
welcome. On my way home I stopped at the Lincoln- 
on-Field Church, and then went to Liverpool 
road to inquire after a friend, and in coming back 
came down the St. Pancras road, where I met a 
number of Salvationists and engaged in conversation 
with some of them. All over that great city these 
men and women can be seen pushing forward the 
cause of their dear Master. When I returned to the 
house for dinner, I met another native of Calcutta, 
who was in London studying medicine, and expected 



162 A BACHELOR'S RAMBLES 

to graduate the following week. In the evening, as I 

was going into church with friend H S , Mr. 

A , a local preacher, accosted me and requested 

me to go with him to Parker street, West Centre, to 
the county council lodging, where he was to conduct 
a service. It is a place nicely fitted up as a cheap 
lodging place for men who were out of employment. 
The service was held in the reading-room, which is quite 
large. There were about one hundred and fifty men, 
old and young, assembled ; most of them were smoking 

and reading. Mr. A said they usually did not pay 

much attention. Two young ladies accompanied us ; 
one presided at the piano, and the other sang a solo. 
As she sang a beautiful and touching piece, they were 

very attentive. Then Mr. A introduced me to 

the audience and announced I would sing, accom- 
panied by my harp. After I had played and 
sang a piece for them, several exclaimed: "Much 
obliged to you." It rather surprised me to be 
applauded in that style. After the service many of 
them gathered about me and shook my hand, and said : 
" God bless you, and give you a safe passage across 
the Atlantic." I returned to Great Queen Street 
Church to the Communion service, which was con- 
ducted a little different from the way they are in 
America. 

Monday, August 6. — This was Bank Holiday, 
and business, as a rule, was suspended, and it seemed 
that all that could were making their way to 
the parks and pleasure resorts in and around the city, 
about which could be seen the large posters giving 
notice of some grand Bank Holiday excursion. I 



THROUGH THE BRITISH ISLES. 163 

expected to leave by train in the evening for Harwich, 
and from there by steamer for Antwerp. Went to 
Cook's tourist office at Ludgate Circus and got some 
English money exchanged for Belgium, and then took 
a stroll through Cheapside, noted for its hand- 
some stores. From this great thoroughfare ran a 
number of small streets that have quite a history. 
Bread street, which is quite small, is where Milton, 
the great poet, was born. Milk street, also bear- 
ing a suggestive name, is where Sir Thomas Moore 
was born, and on it stood Mermaid Inn, a favorite 
place of Shakespeare. Fleet street, running from St. 
Paul's to the Strand, has an interesting history to all 
lovers of Dickens' works, for on this street stood the 
Fleet Prison, made famous by him. It seemed to me 
that you could not go anywhere but you were informed 
that some great man was born there, or some import- 
ant event happened there, and as I walked through the 
streets of London I felt very desirous of spending 
several weeks more in sightseeing. The Mansion 
House, the palace of the L,ord Mayor, is a splendid 
building, as is also the Royal Exchange. The carvings 
upon it are magnificent. I remained here some time in 
looking at this fine building. In the afternoon I went 

out again to what Mr. S and family styled my 

"London Home," at Stamford Hill. Mr. S and 

his youngest son and I went to the beautiful Finsbury 
Park, and I should judge from the immense throng of 
people who were enjoying themselves there, it was a 
place very much appreciated by the residents of that 
part of the city. It was laid out very nicely ; the 
great beds of flowers were arranged in the most artistic 



164 A BACHELOR'S RAMBLES 

manner, and there was a miniature lake on which 
were a number of small boats, well patronized. 
At 8 p. M., boarded the train for Harwich. In the 
compartment were three young men, who, like my- 
self, were not hard to become acquainted with. One 
of them was a jolly lad, and by his witty remarks 
amused his little audience. They were speaking 
of the towns they came from, and I asked this bundle 
of fun what part of England he thought I was from. 
He replied: "I guess you are from America." He 
had heard me use the word guess, common to Ameri- 
cans. We left Harwich for Antwerp at 9:30, and I 
soon retired. 





In Holland and Belgium. 

! UESDAY, August 7.— Arose about 4 
a. m., and when I came on deck we 
were in sight of Holland. We met a 
great many odd looking fishing boats. 
Their dark looking sails and tub-like 
shape attracted my attention. I met 
the three gentlemen again on deck, and 
the clown, as I styled him, saw the 
funny side of everything, and had a 
way of making us see it. I shall not soon forget that 
chap who made the trip to Antwerp so pleasant for me. 
We stopped just off Flushing, Holland, and took on 
the pilot. We were near enough to the city to see 
that it was a place of some note. There was a Catho- 
lic priest on board with whom I became acquainted. 
He informed -me he was stationed near the town of 
Leeds, England, but his home was in Antwerp. He 
said he had a strong desire to go to America, but 
when he mentioned it to his old widowed mother, 
it grieved her very much, and he could not with- 
stand her tears. He seemed to possess a fine 
Christian spirit. As we came in sight of Antwerp, 
he pointed out the places of interest. It is a great 
shipping place, and the masts of the ships seemed 
to be lifting their heads in all directions. Our 
bundle of fun was disappointed in not having his 
friend meet him at the wharf, and walked with 
the other two men and myself to the street run- 



166 A BACHELOR'S RAMBLES 

ning along the river front. He would stop and call 
the attention of the passersby to the address of the 
place he expected to go, but no one that we met 
understood English. We soon had a crowd of men 
and boys following us, all anxious to understand 
enough to pilot him to his destination. This amused 
me very much, as the people came to the store doors 
and watched us. Finally he found a man who spoke 
English, as also the other two did, and so we separated, 
they going to the hotel with their guide, and 
I to the Exhibition. A sense of loneliness came 
over me as I realized I was alone in a land 
where I, as a rule, could not be understood. The 
Exhibition was a repetition of what I had seen in 
America, but I would have been very much interested 
had I had some one with me. For once in my 
life I had come to a place where I found it impossi- 
ble to converse with any one. The great crowds 
of people I passed where talking in an unknown 
tongue. I saw a very striking figure of Christ on 
the cross, in life size, with two figures each side 
of him. A large harp made of artificial flowers 
attracted the attention of many people. The 
American exhibits were not very elaborate. The 
Midway Plaisance and the Zulu Village, with a 
number of natives rowing on a miniature lake, 
singing some hideous song, seemed to draw most 
of the crowd. The furniture, tapestry and statu- 
ary in the main building, and the machinery hall 
claimed my attention for some time. I spent most 
of the day there without saying very much to anj^one. 
Just before I left I became acquainted with a gentle- 



THROUGH THE BRITISH ISLES. 167 

man from Belfast, Ireland, and I assure you was 
glad to find some one that I could converse with. He 
went to London on the steamer, and invited me go to 
the wharf with him — which I did. I felt inclined to 
shake off the dust of the city and return to England 
also, but I wanted to pay a visit to Brussels and 
purposed spending the night and the following day 
there. When I boarded the street car, I said 
to the conductor : "I want to go to Brussels 
Station." He shrugged his shoulders, shook his 
head and gave me a look that indicated he 
would like to help me out. I began to appreciate 
the feelings of people who came to our shores 
without a knowledge of our language. "Can you tell 
me how I will reach the Brussels Station," I repeated. 
Finally by motions and spreading my hands in 
a great manner, much to the amusement of the 
passengers, made him understand where I wanted to 
go, and on reaching the boulevard leading to the 
depot, he motioned for me to get off the car. As I 
made my way to the station, concluded not to 
take a trip to a country again without knowing some- 
thing of the language or having company. Many of 
the streets of Antwerp are very beautiful and are kept 
in excellent order ; as I passed along the boulevard 
leading to the station, noticed a great many fine 
houses. When I went to the office to get my ticket, 
just in front of me was a young man who greatly sur- 
prised me when he asked for six tickets for Brussels. 
I laid my hand on his shoulder and said to him : 
"Excuse me, sir, but I am so glad to hear a 
man speak English; are you going to Brussels?" 



i68 A BACHELOR'S RAMBLES 

He gave me a look and seemed to take in the 
situation at once, and sympathizing with me in my 
lonely condition, said: "Yes; buy your ticket 
for the express and go along with us ; there are 
three ladies and two other gentlemen in our party." 
I needed no further invitation for I felt I had 
suddenly fallen into the hands of a friend, and when 
we came to the platform I found three very 
refined looking ladies, and two gentlemen, whom 
anyone at a glance would have known were 
excellent people. They were from Bradford, England. 
The young man said to them by way of an intro- 
duction : "This is another American gentleman who 
is going to Brussels with us," and turning to 
me, remarked : ' ' We met a gentleman from your 
country who will join us in a short time." We 
had the compartment to ourselves ; the partitions 
being low, the people in the ajoining one seemed 
very much interested in our English conversation. 
The American finally put in an appearance and 
became very friendly with me. " If you have no 
objection," I said to the Englishman, "I would 
like to stop at the same hotel with you." He 
kindly said : ' ' You are entirely welcome to go with 
us." On reaching the hotel, the maid showed 
us to our rooms and I was well pleased with 
my quarters; but presently she came up stairs 
and said in broken English to the American 
and I : " These rooms are engaged by those other 
people and we have no vacant rooms, but the pro- 
prietor has gone to another hotel below here to get 
you accommodations." This young woman was the 



THROUGH THE BRITISH ISLES. 169 

only one about the house who made any attempt to 
speak English, and she knew very little more 
about it than I did about French, which as a 
rule, is spoken in Belgium. Presently the in- 
formation came to us that rooms had been secured 
for us, so we followed the young man, the pro- 
prietor, to a very genteel looking place and no 
one in this house could speak a word of English. 
The lady showed us to our apartments, and as 
there were no matches in the room, I asked her for 
some. She smiled, and shrugged her shoulders, as 
is their custom when they do not understand. 
I saw at once that I would have to use my hands 
instead of my tongue, so began to make motions on 
the wall and point to the gas. She seemed to enjoy it 
for she went out laughing and soon returned with the 
needed article. The American invited me to go out 
with him, but concluded to retire and be prepared 
for the tramp I had planned for the following day. 
During the night I was awakened by some one 
trying my door and thought now I will have to pre- 
pare to defend my pocket-book, but on investigation 
found it was the American. He called to me and 
said : "Do you know your key is on the outside of 
the door?" "No," I replied, I thought I locked 
my door on retiring. He considered me very careless, 
which was the case, and I then made sure the key was 
in its proper place. 

Wednesday, August 8. — Before any of the friends 
whom I met the day previous, were on the scene of 
action, I was on the streets of the magnificent city of 
Brussels, inquiring my way to the places of interest, 



iyo A BACHELOR'S RAMBLES 

but met with very little success, in getting any 
information. The first place on my program was 
the Cathedral, and I thought as I stepped up to a 
priest on the street, I was sure of being directed 
there, but to my surprise, he began to elevate 
his shoulders and shake his head, and I was 
obliged to pass on; so concluded to try again. This 
time I showed another priest a cut of a cathedral at 
Ghent. He looked at it and then began pointing in a 
way that indicated to me he thought it was Ghent 
that I was inquiring about. I shook my head, and 
he gave me a look which seemed to say, I would 
help you if I could. Finally I caught sight of 
the tall spire and wended my way through the 
crooked streets to the grand old structure. There 
were many devout worshippers, but they did 
not seem to be disturbed as the visitors walked 
around. In one end of the Cathedral there was 
a pulpit that attracted my attention. It was sup- 
ported by two carved figures representing stalwart 
men, with an angel each side of the stairway 
and a number of other designs on the pulpit, which 
were magnificent. Leaving there, I went to Hotel 
de Ville, which is a large, handsome structure, 
originally built 1402-43, and has a tall, stately 
spire 370 feet high, with a colossal statue of 
St. Michael on top. Saw a great number of 
carriages standing in front of the hotel, and quite 
a crowd about the entrance, so my curiosity 
caused me to halt. Presently, saw a wedding 
party coming out, which struck me as being a 
grand affair, judging from the ladies' gorgeous attire. 



THROUGH THE BRITISH ISLES. 171 

The bride's dress was of white silk, with material 
enough, apparently, for two ordinary costumes. A little 
maid followed in the rear holding fast to a part of it, 
keeping it clear from all incumbrances. This, being 
a bachelor's description, of course will not be con- 
sidered as being entirely clear. Leaving this scene of 
gaiety, I went through the Arcade. It is a long arch, 
with beautiful stores on either side. Entering one 
of them, I made some purchases and was sur- 
prised when the young lady spoke to me in broken 
English. From there, went to a part of the city that 
contained many large and handsome edifices, which 
I judged were government and city buildings. I 
greatly admired the grand boulevards, which were 
lined on both sides with residences that would be 
ornamental to any city. The military parade inter- 
ested me as it passed a nicely arranged park, at 
the entrance of which I was standing. There 
was a gentleman near me, whom I ventured to 
ask to direct me to the Antwerp Station. His 
shoulders began to take an upward course and 
his hands an outward turn, and it was evident 
that the information would not be forthcoming ; 
but the thought occurred to me to try a little 
of the German language, and found, like myself, 
he understood something of it. It was suffi- 
cient to enable me to find my way to the station 
without much trouble. Having some time to 
spend before the train left for Antwerp, I went 
through what was, apparently, a very old part of the 
city, the houses being built principally of light 
stone. Waterloo is only a few miles distant, and I 



i 7 2 A BACHELOR'S RAMBLES 

felt inclined to stop over another day and visit this 
historic old battlefield. I left this magnificent city, 
with its 475,000 inhabitants, well pleased with my 
visit there, although I had experienced so much 
difficulty in being understood. In the compartment 
I occupied returning to Antwerp, there was not one 
person who could understand a word of English, so 
I spent the time looking at the country as we 
passed along, and noted the different towns. There 
were a great many women at work in the fields, 
and in Antwerp I saw them on the wharves help- 
ing the men unload the boats. On arriving, find- 
ing I had considerable time for sightseeing, 
went through quite a number of the quaint old 
streets, and visited the Cathedral, which is said to 
be the finest in Belgium. It was built 1 352-1 530, 
and is 384 feet long and 130 feet high. A gentle- 
man gave me a discription of this grand old Cathe- 
dral before taking my trip. I was very much dis- 
appointed in not being able to see the painting, 
"The Descent From the Cross," by Rubens, as 
it was veiled. It is said to be a masterpiece. 
The wooden shoes worn by the men who were 
cleaning the streets, were a novel thing to 
me. Antwerp is, apparently, a city that carries on 
considerable business with the outside world, for 
as I walked along the street on the river front, 
saw the flags flying from the ships, from different 
parts of the world. The population of Antwerp 
is 240,000. I left at 7:45 for Harwich on the 
steamer which was very much crowded ; a num- 
ber of the passengers had a weakness for the 



THROUGH THE BRITISH ISLES. 



173 



whiskey bottle, and with this disturbing article 
about, it was difficult for many of us to get much 
sleep . 





In Old England Again. 

^HURSDAY, August 9.— When I came 
\ on deck the shores of old England greet- 
ed my eyes. Soon we ran into the quiet 
harbor and in a short time, were speed- 
ing away by train toward the busy city 
of London. The country we passed 
through, I found, like all the other parts 
of England which it was my pleasure 
to see, was greatly to be admired. We 
passed through a number of towns, some of which 
were beautiful ; one in particular, the town of Colches- 
ter, I recollect it as being quite a large and pleasant 
lookingplace. We arrived in London at 8:30, affording 
me another day for sightseeing in the great metropolis. 
As I wended my way through its crowded streets and 
passed the vast number of large and attractive stores, 
well patronized, concluded after all there was not so much 
depression in business as one would imagine. In m)' 
travels through this wonderful city, as well as in other 
cities and towns on both sides of the Atlantic, I 
observed that the real cause of so much poverty and 
distress is, "Strong Drink." In the streets of this 
great city, I saw men and women, young and old, 
going into public houses, spending their shillings 
for intoxicating drink, when they had great need 
of going to the tailor for an outfit. In my tramping I 
came to a thoroughfare called Threadneedle Street, 
(a name very suggestive to a bachelor.) I was curious 



THROUGH THE BRITISH ISLES. 175 

to learn the origin of such an odd name for a street, 
but had not time to look it up. Went through a part 
of the New Law Court, a large and attractive building, 
which is said to have cost $5,000,000. On my way 
down the Strand stopped at the old Church of St. Mary- 
le-Strand, where Thomas Becket was once priest. It 
bears the marks of years. I was also on Maiden Lane, 
where Voltair lived. Then went to Exeter Hall, a place 
that had become quite familiar to me. One is always 
sure of a cordial welcome there from the secretary or his 
worthy assistant, who gave me some printed forms 
and some instructions in reference to the Y. M. 
C. A. work, which I was to take to South Littleton, 
as I was anxious to have them organize an association 
there. A short distance from Exeter Hall is Convent 
Garden ; it is a flower and vegetable market, and is 
said to be the chief market of the kind in London. 
Frequently in going to the Strand I would stop there 
and spend a little time in looking about. As my 
time was growing short in London, and this was 
my farewell visit, kept on the move. I had 
been to a number of the places referred to 
several times, yet learned something more of their 
history, and felt like paying another visit to them. 
Whitehall Palace was very interesting to me, and I 
would like to have seen more of it. It is said that 
this is the place where Henry VIII met Ann Boylen, 
and where he died. From there Elizabeth was 
taken to prison. Milton and Cromwell once lived 
there, and there the latter died. It is a large, massive 
old building. Also went to the famous Scotland Yards, 
the police headquarters, and it is an immense place. 



176 A BACHELOR'S RAMBLES 

The nephew of an old friend of mine in America, was 
on the police force, and he desired me to call and try 
to find out his whereabouts, but I did not succeed, as 
it would take to much of my time. I went to Stam- 
ford Hill to bid farewell to my friends at ' ' Hope 
Lodge." When I grasped the hands of Mr. and Mrs. 

S , and their three promising sons, and his mother, 

a woman of rare excellence, and bade them good-bye, 
I wished there was not such a wide stretch of water 
between England and America, so that I might have 
the pleasure of frequently visiting this home. But 
while I left these friends with a possibility of never see- 
ing them again in this life, carried the remembrance 
of their kind deeds with me to America, and shall keep 
them in a good state of preservation throughout life. 
Rode on the tram to Holborn, then walked through 
Southampton Row and Russell Square to Bernard 

street, spending the evening with Mr. H S , at 

Free Masons' Hall, and on returning home found one of 
the lodgers, a young man from the West Indies, in great 
trouble, having lost his pocket book with a large 
amount of money. He had my sympathy without my 
shillings, for I was keeping careful watch over them, 
wondering if I would be able to complete my plans 
without being stranded. 

Friday, August 10. — This being my last day in 
London, I was on the move very early. My first point 

was Peckham, where lived the brother of Mr. H , 

of Camden, N. J., and whom I had not as yet seen, 
as he was out when I called. He had sent me an 
invitation to spend several days with him, which I was 
unable to do. I walked over the long-to-be-remem- 



THROUGH THE BRITISH ISLES. 177 

bered Waterloo Bridge, and seated myself on the tram, 
and although I had been over the route several 
times, found many things to interest me in passing 

along. Telford road, on which Mr. H lived, 

is built up with fine homes on each side, and is a 
pleasant part of the city. The door bell was answered 

by Mr. H , who met me as an old friend would 

another, and when I entered the parlor, was introduced 
to another brother from a distant town. As I 
intended leaving in the afternoon for Birmingham, my 
stay was brief; but while there, although not near 
time for the noonday meal, Mrs. H prepared din- 
ner. They said : ' ' We could not think of letting you 
leave London without taking a meal with us" — another 
demonstration of English hospitality. It did me 
good to see how delighted all those were to whom I 
took messages from friends in America. Leaving 
Peckham, I rode to Kings Cross, and from there 
returned to the house and soon bade farewell to the 
old city of London, and left St. Pancras Station for 
Birmingham, arriving there at 5:30. Just as I 
reached New street, the elements gave me a cordial 
reception, for the rain came down in torrents, compell- 
ing me to ride inside the bus, thus depriving me of my 
usual seat on top, which I so much enjoyed, in riding 
to Harborn. 

Saturday, August 11. — Mr. E P and I 

went to Birmingham to Cook's office and left the order 
to call for my luggage, which was to be sent to the 
steamer South wark at a given time. It began to seem 
as though my stay was rapidly drawing to a close, but 
aside from a desire to see friends in America, I 



178 A BACHELOR'S RAMBLES 

wished to remain longer, for there were many 
places which I wished to visit, some of them 
full of interest to one who was fond of making 
a tour into the past. At 3 p. m., I boarded 
the train for South Littleton, arriving there at 6 p. m., 
and found the friends looking for the return of the 
wandering American. In the evening a few of the 

young men met at the home of Mr. M . I was 

greatly amused while listening to them in their exceed- 
ingly broad manner of speaking, exchanging their 
views on different questions. One of them, a nephew 

of Mrs. M , sat in the old chimney corner smoking 

his pipe, and frequently by his droll, witty remarks, 
would cause that little circle to laugh heartily — I laugh- 
ed in a very high key and was generally the leading voice. 
In the company was a young man who had recently 
become a Christain through the efforts of this noble 
little band of young men; he had been rescued from a 
life of dissipation. He gave great promise of becom- 
ing a power for good. 

Sunday, August 12. — Met the Bible Class at the 
hall. The lesson was from L,uke ix, and it did me 
good, as those plain unassuming men brought up the 
precious truths from the unfathomable mines of God's 
word. They expressed themselves in a way that 
impressed me with the fact that they regarded the 
Bible as being the inspired word of God. In the even- 
ing some of the members of the Salvation Army from 
Evesham were present and took part in the service, 
at the close of which, about -twenty persons assembled 
at the home of Mr. B , and, as I sat in the chim- 
ney corner, and talked to the young men in reference to 



THROUGH THE BRITISH ISLES. 179 

the organization of their Y. M. C. A., they became 
very enthusiastic about it, and shortly after my return 

home, came the information from Mr. F B that 

they had organized and were already engaged in active 
work ; and no doubt through their earnest efforts, 
many of the }roung men who visit the public houses 
will be saved. I played and sang some pieces for them, 
after which the entire company joined in a farewell 
song which impressed me very much. In the company 

was the sister of my friend, Mr. R , of Camden, 

N. J.; she was a woman of nearly four score years, 
but had retained considerable of her youthful spirit, and 
the young people enjoyed her society very much. 
That little company, which gathered in that quaint 
old house to bid the "Yankee " farewell, and give him 
their good wishes for a safe voyage across the Atlantic, 
will live in my memory, along with others of that 
little village whom I am free to call my friends. I 

asked Mr. F B how he would like to go to 

America ; he said in a manner that amused the com- 
pany : "I would like to go if I could go when 
asleep ; I would not want to know anything about 
crossing the ocean . ' ' 

Monday, August 13. — When I bade good-bye to 

Mr. G , the invalid whom I have previously referred 

to, he said to me as he looked up into my face : "I 
shall soon be in that city where I will be entirely free 
from all my afflictions;" and as I looked at that man, 
so utterly helpless and yet so happy, felt I had 
been made the better for my having known such a 
character. I left the little village of South Littleton, 
feeling that my visit there had been one of pleasure, and 



1S0 A BACHELOR'S RAMBLES 

also of great benefit to me. Worcester was the next 
point of interest in view. This town is in the center of 
England and is beautifully situated, the river Severn 
dividing it. The Cathedral, which is a large and 
elegant structure, standing near the banks of the river, 
was built in 1034- 1374. The dimensions given are 
394 feet long, 72 feet wide and 162 feet high. The 
decorations are magnificent, and the fine stone pulpit 
in the choir is quite an ornament to the Cathedral. 
The monument of King John, is said to be one of the 
most ancient in England. I remained to a short 
service, which was sung by an excellent male choir. 
The large baptismal font made of wood, carved in 
the most artistic manner with heavy brass ornaments 
and spires reaching nearly to the arch above it, with 
carved figures of some of the saints on each side, I 
admired very much. I copied from a tablet the 
name of a lady who died in 1697, also that of Sir 

Thomas L, , and his wife, — the former died in 1650, 

the latter in 1666 ; also another of a man who died in 

1674 ; Thomas S , clerk of the city of Worcester, 

died in 1695. The chimes of the Cathedral are said 
to be very fine; the pieces used for each day are 
placed on a little bulletin board. I copied the ones 
that were there : "Home Sweet Home," "My Lodg- 
ings are on the Cold Ground, ' ' ' ' God Bless the Prince of 
Wales," " Ye Banks and Braes." In the rear of the 
Cathedral are the ruins of an old abbey, overlooking 
the river. A gentleman gave me a short history of it. 
There is a subterranean passage leading from this abbey 
to a considerable distance under the city, but as I failed 
to jot down, in my note book, the account given to me 



THROUGH THE BRITISH ISLES. 181 

of it, have lost the thread of some of the interesting 
facts connected with it. There is a beautiful little 
park besides the abbey, from which I had a grand view 
of the country on the opposite side of the river. The 
population of the city is about 40,000 ; several of the 
business streets present a good appearance. One part 
of the city is called ' 'The Cross, ' ' deriving its name from 
the streets forming it. Visited the Y. M. C. A. hall, 
a neat little building on Copenhagen street, and the sec- 
retary seemed to be putting forth every effort to attract 
the young men of the city to this worthy place. From 
there went to the Royal Porcelain works ; in going, 
passed through one of the most ancient looking 
streets that I had seen in all my travels. The little 
houses looked as though they were built many hundred 
years ago. At the entrance there is a show-room with 
a fine display of beautiful wares. The payment of a 
sixpence, entitled me to a guide book, and a visit 
through this interesting place. The celebrated Royal 
Porcelain ware is sold in nearly every market in the 
world. I was taken all through, from the mill to 
the finishing room, and was well repaid for my visit 
there. Left this ancient city at 4 p. m., and in a short 
time was in the familiar city of Birmingham , and was soon 

sitting at the old hearthstone at Harborn. Mr. E 

P took me to visit a wealthy bachelor, a particular 

friend of his. He and his nephew, a good, sociable 
young man, who with the exception of the house- 
keeper, were the sole occupants of this large and 
splendid mansion. When I was introduced to this 
member of the "bachelor's fraternity," situated as he 
was, confess I could not quite understand how it was 



1S2 A BACHELOR'S RAMBLES 

he had held his membership in this worthy order so long. 

Tuesday, August 14. — Took the 'bus to Five 

Ways, then walked down Islington Row, then to Great 

Colmore street, and called on the aunt of Miss P , 

who had some messages and gifts to send to friends in 
America. At 1:20 p. m., left Birmingham on the Mid- 
land Railroad for Nottingham, where Mr. A M 

and Mrs. D lived, and who I had promised to visit 

before returning home. Nottingham has a population 
of 230,000, and is a very interesting city. I 

was directed to the home of Friend M . He 

and I were soon on the tramp through the busy streets, 
and then went to the quaint old market-place, which 
covers about five acres, and I enjoyed the trip through it. 
We visited the famous old castle ; it stands on a very 
high rock overlooking the city and river Trent, and 
from there I had a grand view of the valley of Trent. 
There is an excavation from the castle to the river ; it 
is called "Mortimer's hole. ' ' There is a museum in the 
castle containing some relics which would interest any 
lover of old curiosities. At the entrance is a very nice 
park, where the children seemed to be having a good 
time. In the evening when we returned, found quite 
an excitement in the locality of my friend's home. 
The honeymoon of a bride and groom of a week, 
had suddenly terminated in a serious distur- 
bance, resulting in her leaving without a very 
affectionate farewell. As the young bride passed 
us, returning to her father's house, I said: "She has 
found, like many others, that marriage is a failure." 
Some of the women took up the case and discussed it 
at great length. 



THROUGH THE BRITISH ISLES. 183 

Wednesday, August 15. — Mr. M , having 

shown me through some of the beautiful parts of the 
city, took me to Narrow Marsh, the White Chapel of 
Nottingham ; there I saw some of the most depraved 
looking men and women that could be found anywhere. 
I east my eyes about as we hurried through, and 
wondered how humanity could, in an enlightened land, 
sink so low. Nottingham is noted for its lace and 
hosiery mills, where hundreds of men and women are 
employed. One evening we came through one of the 
districts where a number of the mills are situated, just 
as the employes were coming from work, and the streets 
were so crowded that it was almost impossible for us to 

get through. Mr. B , a brother-in-law of Mr. 

M , is proprietor of a large lithographic establish- 
ment, which we visited and were much interested in, as 

Mr. B showed us the process of making their fine 

work. While there, was introduced to a Mr. L, , 

whose father is' owner of a lace manufactory ; he invit- 
ed us to meet him at a given point, and he would take 
us through the mill, which he did, and we spent some 
time in watching them making lace, most of which 
was very handsome. We went to the park, which is 
quite a fine addition to the city; also visited the Cathe- 
dral cementry, under a portion of which are the caves 
where Robin Hood secreted himself when pursued by 
those who sought to bring him to terms. We spent 
some time looking at these old caverns, some of which 
look as though they were ready to collapse. On our 
way to the home of Mrs. D , one of the ship's com- 
pany, we passed through what was once the "Great 
Forest," and which bears that name yet, although the 



i«4 A BACHELOR'S RAMBLES 

trees are very scarce. This forest is said to be where 
Robin Hood spent most of his time roaming around. 
The part of the city where Mrs. D lives is com- 
paratively new, and the houses are very neat and 
pretty. 

Thursday, August 16. — Went with Mr. M 's 

mother to see some very old houses, which were built 
in the side of the rocks. The original rooms are cut 
in the solid rock, the fronts having been built at a 

more recent date. Mrs. M knew a family living 

in one of the houses, and the mother of the lady of the 
house, showed us through this quaint place. She was 
nearly eighty years old, and pointed out the room to 
us in which she was born, and also where her mother 
was born. She informed us that her mother lived 
there during her married life, her father having built 
the front of the house, and she had spent all her 
life there, her married daughter now having charge 
of it. In one of the rooms in the rock was a bed- 
stead built close to the side of the rock, and this 
odd piece of furniture was two hundred years 

old. When I returned to Mr. M 's, I found 

Dr. R there, whom I had not met since I 

left him in Edinburgh, Scotland, but had correspond- 
ed with him. His headquarters were at Long Eaton, 
a town a few miles from Nottingham. He came over 

to have me go home with him, but Mr. M had 

arranged a trip to St. Winford's Church, which stands 
near the banks of the Trent, about two miles from the 

city. In the afternoon Mr. M and I took this 

pleasant walk along the river to the church. Near by 
was a little town, the most of which were thatched 



THROUGH THE BRITISH ISLES. 185 

roof cottages, giving it a very ancient appearance. As 
a matter of course I soon found my way into the old 
churchyard, and with book and pencil wandered 
among the tombs, copying the epitaphs that were out 
of the line of the ordinary. When we turned our 
steps homeward, the afternoon was nearly spent, 
and on reaching there found a Philadelphia Ledger, 
and perused it with pleasure. 

Friday, August 17. — After a visit to the home of 

Mrs. B , sister of Mr. M , 1 booked for Long 

Eaton, as I had promised to spend a little time with 

Dr. R before returning home. I was entertained 

at the home of Mr. D , a friend of the doctor, 

where he had been stopping at intervals during his stay 
in England. This gentleman was a lace manufacturer, 
and in his home of wealth and refinement, I was made 

welcome at once. Dr. R , Mr. D , Jr., and I 

took a walk through the town. Most of the houses 
are large and handsome, with fine grounds. We 
called on some friends of theirs, and were entertained 

in good old English style. When I bade Dr. R 

good-bye, I discovered he was a trifle blue, and he said: 
' ' I am home-sick and wish I was going back to 
America with you," but in reply I said : " I am sick 
because I am not able to remain here longer, for there 
are yet many places I wish to visit. ' ' Booked for Trent , 
a short distance away, where after waiting for an hour 
for the train, started in the direction of Harborn. I 
was anxious to go to Northampton, where the gentle- 
man lived who rendered me so much kindness on my 
first day in London, but was informed it would take 
me some distance out of my way, and my time was 



186 A BACHELOR'S RAMBLES 

limited. When I arrived at the old home at Harborn, 
they were having an interesting game of lawn tennis 
in the field ajoining the house. Mrs. T , a very- 
estimable lady and an intimate friend of Mrs. P , 

kindly presented me with a very handsome Bible and 
other valuable books before I left. She is a lady ol 
considerable means and who, by her consecrated wealth, 
brings joy and gladness to many of Harborn 's needy 
ones. 

Saturday, August 18. — Mr. E P and I 

went to the free librarj 7 at Birmingham ; in one part is 
a museum in which was an idol from Hindostan, 
said to be two thousand years old. There were 
many other interesting old relics which we spent some 
time in looking at. The reading-room was the most 
complete of any I ever visited ; there were papers on 
file from countries far and near, several of them being 
from different cities in America. Then went to a store 
similar to John Wanamaker's, but on a smaller scale. 
I purchased a hat, which my friends said was very 
becoming, but on reaching America, found there was 
a difference of opinion with my friends here in regard 
to the hat. One of my friends said, soon after greeting 
me :" Butler, you need more hat than that." After 
several comments of that kind, concluded to lay it 

aside as a souvenir of my trip. Mr. P joined us 

and we together took a walk through a part of the 
city that in all my tramping I had not visited before. 
In going through the old St. Phillip's churchyard, 
which is used as a thoroughfare, I found myself halt- 
ing in front of some old time-worn tombstones and 
reading the epitaphs ; in doing so, came across one of 



THROUGH THE BRITISH ISLES. 187 

the most peculiar pieces of poetry I ever read, 

and which I copied. Mr. P said : "I have been 

coming through here for years and never saw that 
before." He was quite as much amused as myself. 
On returning to Harborn the entire family, with Mr. 

S F , (who has since became a member of it), 

the tall Yankee, and Joe, the pet dog, were photo- 
graphed in a group in front of the house. 

Sunday, August 19. — Went to the Weslyan Chapel 
on South street, Harborn, and listened to a very 
earnest and practical sermon by a young local preacher. 
After hearing his excellent discourse, concluded 
he was on a fair way of becoming a full pledged min- 
ister. The service was similiar to that at City Road 
Chapel ; at the close I was introduced to several of 

the members by Mr. N whom I had met at his 

place of business in Birmingham. The superintendant 
of the Shenly Field Schools, at Northfield, and his 

wife, were intimate friends of the P family, and 

requested them to bring -the American to visit them at 
this very worthy institution. So in the afternoon Mr. 

E P and myself took this very enjoyable walk, 

a distance of three miles to Northfield. We walked 
some part of the way along a splendid road passing 
some very quaint old farm house and then took a by- 
path across the meadows leading to the cottages which 
are situated on a hill, from which can be seen the tall 
church spires at Birmingham. The country in and 
around this place is beautiful, and on reaching the top 
of the hill, I feasted my eyes on the sublime scenery. 
The Shenly Field Schools, or home for friendless 
children, as we would style it, is conducted differently 



i88 A BACHELOR'S RAMBLES 

from any institution of the kind that I have any 
knowledge of. There are a number of cottages built 
of brick and quite attractive looking and nicely arranged 
for the purpose they were intended for. Each cottage 
is in charge of a man and his wife, with twenty 
children under their care ; the children call them father 
and mother. The girls are thoroughly drilled in 
domestic affairs, and the boys are learned some 
mechanical business. They also have schools with an 
efficient corps of teachers, so that the children may, 
on leaving this institution, go out into the world pre- 
pared, in a measure, to meet its responsibilities. I under- 
stood that many children had gone from this place and 
grown up to be useful men and women, thus reflecting 
great credit on those whose care they were under. 

Mr. D , the superintendant, and his excellent wife, 

seemed well adapted to fill this responsible position. 
As he showed us through the different cottages, I 
could see that he had the love and respect of the 
children, for as soon as they. saw him coming their 
faces would light up with a smile, and the kind words 
dropped by him seemed to bring sunshine into their 
young lives ; many of them were orphans, and others 
were children whose parents were dissipated and who 
possibly never knew what the comforts of life were 
until going there. He said to me: "I will take you 
to see my little ones after the matron has them snugly 
tucked away in bed." Some of the readers might 
think a visit there would not interest a bachelor very 
much, but it did. We were taken to the dormatory, 
where were long rows of neat looking beds, from 
which peeped the faces of little ones who had not the 



THROUGH THE BRITISH ISLES. 189 

care of a loving mother, but a matron who seemed 
an excellent substitute for one. They ranged in age 
from about three years to five and six . There was a 
beautiful little flaxen haired girl about three years old, 
who attracted my attention ; any father and mother 
would have been proud to have owned such an interest- 
ing child ; Mr. D said she was bright and intelli- 
gent. There was a boj' about the same age who had 
an unusually handsome face, and whose intelligence was 
remarkable. As I stood looking at those twenty little 
tots, they drew quite heavily on the sympathy of the 
bachelor's heart. They have a fine little chapel 
where they are taught which path to take leading to life 
eternal, and they also receive instructions along that line 
in the cottages. We sometimes say this is a cold 
world, but after knowing something of these 
institutions, both for young and old, that are found in 
great numbers on both sides of the Atlantic, and the 
Christian churches that dot our land and other 
countries, I am inclined to say that it has been 
warmed by our holy Christianity, until it is quite a 

comfortable place to live in. Mr. and Mrs. D are 

fine musicians and gave us some very good selections. 
We remained at tea and they insisted on us staying at 
supper, as the curate was to be there and they wanted 

us to meet him, but Mr. E P said : " Mr. 

Butler has only spent this one Sunday with us since he 
has been in England, and as I am to leave for Kent this 
coming week, to be away from home a long time, and 
we both want to go to the old Harborn Church this 
evening." So we started for home but found it was 
raining so hard we were compelled to return. Mr. 



190 A BACHELOR'S RAMBLES 

D informed us that their telephone was connected 

with the Christ Church in Birmingham, and we would 
be able to hea;; some of the service. At the time for 

service Mr. D called me to the telephone, and, as 

I placed my ear to it, heard the sweet strains of the 
organ, and, as I listened to the choir — which is con- 
sidered one of the best in England — taking their part in 
the service, felt I was in communication with the 
heavenly country, particularly so when they sang one 
of the old, sweet, familiar hymns. I was so charmed 
that I reluctantly yielded my place at the telephone 
to others. When I again had the opportunity of 
listening the rector was just announcing the text ; his 
voice had a musical sound, as it came over the wires to 
me with that gospel message. The sweet sounds of 
that service seems to linger in my ear yet. In a short 
time the curate put in his appearance ; he was one of 
those kind of persons that a few minutes in his 
presence made you feel quite well acquainted with him . 
We sat down to an elegant repast at 9:30, and not 
only enjoyed what was set before us, but the pleasant 
conversation which was carried on at the table , none being 
more jovial than the curate. Soon after we wended 
our way through the midnight darkness, back to Har- 
born, reaching there about eleven o'clock. So closed 
my last Sabbath in England. 

Monday, August 20. — Arose early and began pre- 
paring to take my departure from my English home, 

to which I had become much attached. Mrs. P 's 

sister and brother-in-law, from Liverpool, visited Har- 
born during my trip to Antwerp and left a cordial invi- 
tation for me to spend a few days with them before 



THROUGH THE BRITISH ISLES. 191 

sailing for home; and as there were but three days 
more to divide up between Chester, Oldham, Man- 
chester and Liverpool, was obliged to be on the move 
early. With messages and a bundle of love to Fred. 
in America, I bade good-bye to my kind friends and 
hurried to Birmingham, and was soon speeding away, 
by the Great Western Railroad, to the old city of 
Chester; aside from the city of York, it is the most 
ancient-looking city which I visited. History informs 
us that there was a town on this site before the Roman 
invasion, but it was the Romans who made the definite 
foundations. The old walls, which were in ruins for 
about three centuries, were restored A. D. 907; a 
walk around them gave me some idea of the size of 
the city. While on the walls met four Americans — a 
lady and three gentlemen — who had landed in Liver- 
pool that day, and enjoyed a pleasant conversation with 
them. They informed me the3' expected to remain 
in the country a year. I quite envied them. In going 
through some of the ancient streets was interested in 
looking at the curious carvings on some of the old 
houses ; there are covered avenues above the streets, 
with a flight of wooden steps leading up to them, the 
stores being on the avenues above and below. 
I made a purchase at one of the stores — which 
is called, " The House of Good Providence," from the 
fact of it being the only house whose occupants escaped 
the terrible plague, a few centuries ago. It is said, 
the inmates of this house devoted themselves to 
caring for the stricken ones. The Cathedral, which is 
quite large, was begun in the twelfth century. Tra- 
dition says that a Roman temple to Apollo once stood 



192 A BACHELOR'S RAMBLES 

on this site. I spent some time in wandering around 
through this old Cathedral. When I left Chester 
placed it on the list as one of the most interesting 
towns I visited. Arrived at Birkenhead at 6 p. m., 
crossed in the ferry boat to Liverpool, which place I 
had left three months previous. Took a Lodge Lane 
'bus and rode through the busy streets to No. — Aspen 

Grove, where lived Mr. D . I was received 

very kindly by him, his wife and her mother — who is 

also the mother of Mrs. P , at Harborn. We spent 

the evening at the home of Mr. M , brother of 

Mrs. P . 

Tuesday, August 21. — Mr. D went with me 

to the office of the steamship company, to ascertain 
where the steamer sailed from. We then went to the 
Central Railroad Station, where I booked for Man- 
chester, and from there to Oldham, a few miles distant, 

to make inquiry about relatives of Mrs. A , a friend 

of mine in America. In conversing with a young man 
on the train, was informed that .he knew one of the 
families I wished to see, and he directed me there. 
From this point was directed to her father's sister, and, 
like many of the others on whom I called with 
messages from America, she was so over -joyed that 
the great tears began coursing down her cheeks, as she 
said : " It is more than fifty years since my brother left 
home, and I have heard very little of him since. ' ' Made 
a hurried trip through the old town, which contains a 
number of manufactories. I saw a great many men and 
women coming from the mills ; many of them wore 
clumsy looking shoes with wooden soles, which made 
quite a clatter as they brought them down on the 



THROUGH THE BRITISH ISLES. 193 

pavements. On the top of a tram rode back to Man- 
chester. It is built up all the way, from one town to 
the other, making one long street, so that you can 
scarcely tell when you reach Manchester. At the end 
of every mile, the conductor collected a penny. I 
asked him how many more times he would collect the 
fare, and, after informing me, said to him: "L,et me 
drop the entire amount in the box, as I am going the 
whole length of the route," but he gave me to under- 
stand that he would continue to take it on the instal- 
ment plan. Manchester is a large manufacturing city, 
with a population of 500,000. Its streets were thronged 
with people hurrying to and fro, and as it was a fine 
afternoon, the ladies were out in full force, and 
had the right of way. Many of the stores are 
very large and attractive. I went, with a gentle- 
man whom I met on the tram, through L,ewis' 
immense store ; it is one of the largest in the city and 
is run on the same principal as John Wanamaker's. 
From there I visited the Y. M. C. A., on Peter street. 
The assistant secretary showed me through their 
splendid hall ; their lecture-room is very large and is 
lighted by electricity ; the gymnasium is a very com- 
plete one. From there enjoyed a ride on the top of a 
tram, to the great ship canal ; it was quite a long ride 
through one of the finest parts of the city. Some of 
the residences were magnificent, showing that the occu- 
pants had evidently succeeded in gathering a good 
supply of sovereigns. The canal is worth a visit, and 
I was quite interested in it, although having only a 
short time there. I expected to see a great number of 
ships at the quays, but there were only a few, from 

13 



194 A BACHELOR'S RAMBLES 

which cotton was being unloaded. The total length 
of the canal is 35^ miles; average width at water 
level, 172 feet, except between Barton and Manchester, 
where the width at water level is 230 feet ; minimum 
width of canal at bottom, 120 feet; depth of canal 
throughout, 26 feet. From there returned to the 
business portion of the city and went through some 
parts of the new town hall, which is a large and beau- 
tiful structure. There are a number of very large, 
handsome buildings in the city. L,eft this busy place 
on the 6 p. m. train, arriving at Edge Hill, a suburb of 
Liverpool, at 7 p. m. On my way to the home of 

Friend D , stopped at a shop, and, while the young 

man having charge was waiting on me, I engaged in 
conversation with him. He had a strong desire to go 
to America to seek his fortune, but said : "I can't go 
while mother is living, for I have to care for her." A 
very considerate son, I thought, and, whether he ever 
obtains a fortune or not, his mother has one in having 
such a boy. There was quite a company invited to the 

house of Mr. M to give me a farewell send-off, and 

I am sure I shall always remember, with pleasure, the 
last evening spent on the shores of Old England. 



My Home Across the Sea. 

(with melody arranged.) 

By Chas. J. Butler. 



I left my dear old native land, 

To sail far o'er the sea ; 
And as our ship was seaward bound, 

Sweet home, I thought of thee. 

Chorus. 

My dear old home across the sea, 

How oft' my heart still turns towards thee, 
Where e'er in foreign lands I roam, 

I'll not forget my dear old home. 

Out o'er the ocean's dreary waste 

I gaze, and long to be 
With cherished friends in home, sweet home, 

Across the dark blue sea. 

Faces where kindness sits enthroned, 

I look upon each day, 
But none that seem so fair to me 

As those far, far away. 

In homes o'er Britain's isles, I 've found 

A welcome at the door ; 
There's one awaits me in my home 

On old Columbia's shore. 



Written at Sea, 1894. 




Homeward Bound. 

EDNESDAY, August 22.— The day 
for sailing had come at last. We 
were on the move quite early, for 
the train left L,ime Street Station, 
for the docks, at 9 a. m. Mr. 

D came with me to the station, 

and, having a little time before 
taking the train, spent it in looking 
at some of the places of interest in 
and around that locality. During my short stay in 
Liverpool, found it a much larger and finer city than 
I supposed when I walked through its streets the 
day I landed. On returning to the station, was 

pleased to meet Mr. T , of Philadelphia, and Mr. 

F T , wife and daughter, of Pittsburg, whom I 

met on the ship on the voyage across. We reached the 
docks at 10 a. m., and was soon busy packing my 
luggage away for the homeward voyage. In pass- 
ing the companion-w r ay, was utterly amazed to see Mr. 

Newton S , of Camden, N. J., coming up the steps, 

not thinking of seeing any one from home. Seeing my 
surprised look, he said: "What is the matter?" 
"Well," I replied, "you are like one rising from the 
dead." He said : "I am too much alive to be com- 
ing from that region." We remained at the dock 
until about 2 p. m., then our noble ship slowly made 
her way, past the long rows of stone docks, into the 
river Mersey, and soon the last vestige of the shores 



THROUGH THE BRITISH ISLES. 197 

of Old England disappeared. My room-mates were Mr. 

W , a Philadelphia lawyer, and Professor P , 

from the northern section of the city. Mr. P 

L , of St. Louis, was to share our quarters with 

us on our arrival at Queenstown. We steamed into the 
Queenstown harbor through a dense fog, and when the 
mist rolled away had another good view of Ireland. 
The tender came out to our ship with quite a number 
of passengers ; among them was the old man and his 
wife whom I have referred to as being so much affected 
when he caught sight of Old Ireland. They greeted 
us with as much pleasure' as though we were old 
friends. When Mr. P L came into the state- 
room the first thing he did was to test the springs of his 
berth, and said to me: " I'm not pleased with it," 
and began to contrast the room with the one he had 

coming over. We were anxious to have Mr. N 

S room with us, as we were well acquainted 

with him and he was not pleased with his quarters, 
so I took the case in hand and had him meet Mr. 
L ; he invited him to his room in view of ex- 
changing (I was there to help the thing along), and 
finally he concluded the berth would be preferable to 
the one assigned him . Soon I was doing the neighborly 

act of assisting Mr. L in moving, and in the 

meantime Mr. S was transferring his luggage to 

the "bachelors' sanctum" — for not one of the occu- 
pants of the room had, as yet, found a helpmate, and 

all, with the exception of Mr. N S , had 

been in the world long enough to be styled bachelors. 
A number of small boats came out to our ship 
with persons having various articles for sale— black- 



i 9 S A BACHELOR'S RAMBLES 

thorn canes and shelalahs were their specialties. 
We were greatly amused at the manner in which 
they came on board with their wares ; the men on 
reaching the deck would lower a rope with a large 
loop in it, in which the women seated themselves, and 
were hoisted on deck ; it looked like a perilous under- 
taking, but they did not show any signs of timidity. 
Those that did not come on board would tie their 
wares fast to a rope and one of their number on deck 
would see that the customer passed over the cash and 
received the equivalent. They are pretty sharp in 
their dealings. A man in one of the boats was anxious 
to make a sale and held up a shelalah, fixing the price 
at four shillings. Some of the passengers "guyed" 
him by offering him considerably less. Just as we 
were about leaving Mr. T — — called to him and said : 
" I will give you three shillings for it." " You can 
have it," was his reply, in a good rich brogue, "if 
you'll come down and tussel with me for the other 
shilling." We left with Irish wit on the lead. We 
were soon on the bosom of old ocean, which a 
few hours later was being swept by a fearful storm, 
tossing our ship about, interfering considerably with 
the comfort of a large number of the passengers. 
I was the only one in our state-room who was indis- 
posed and was on the shelf all one day. I made 
several attemps to show my seaworthiness, but betray- 
ed myself each time by having to pay my compliments 
to "Neptune" — something that I did under protest. 
Tommy, the cabin boy, did his best to keep up my 
stock, in the way of toast and beef tea, but he finally 
gave it up, and so did I. Our ship's company was 



THROUGH THE BRITISH ISLES. 199 

made up of very excellent people, and like those whom 
I had the pleasure of going over with, did what they 
could to make the homeward trip a delightful one. 

Among the number was a Mrs. B , a lady more than 

' ' three score years and ten ; ' ' she was remarkably 
bright and intelligent and was the favorite of all who 
had the pleasure of knowing her ; she was in company 
with her two daughters — one a teacher of elocution in 

Philadelphia, the other a Mrs. H , a noted singer. 

Most of us were anxious to see land, but this old lady 
said to me : "I am so much in love with the old ocean 
that I am not anxious to have the voyage end," but 
as I had turned my face homeward, I was counting the 
days and wishing for the one that would bring us into 
the grand old Delaware river. I afforded a great deal 
of amusement to my three room mates, as I had a 

top birth and Mr. W , who occupied the one 

beneath, was usually awake when I was ready to leave 
it, and made it rather difficult for me to reach the floor. 

Mr. N S was on hand to assist Mr. W in 

his good work, and I think, if the voyage had lasted 
a few days longer, I might have been well up in 

gymnastics. Mr. and Mrs. S , a young bride and 

groom from Kent, England, were among our number. 
They were a very excellent couple and most of the 
passengers became quite interested in them and showed 
her a great deal of kindness when old ocean was 
behaving so badly and she was extremely ill. They 
were going to Kansas, to the home of their uncle, to 
begin life in the far west. I saw an opportunity of 
paying back some of the kindness shown to me while 
in the British Isles, and invited them to spend Sunday 



200 A BACHELOR'S RAMBLES 

with me, as we expected to land on Saturday, and 
thought the rest over the Sabbath would fit them better 
for the long journey before them. They accepted my 
invitation and on Monday I was able to render them 
some assistance ; as they were leaving Broad Street Sta- 
tion they said : ' ' We will never forget our first Sabbath 
in America and the kindness shown us by the people 
we met in Camden, N. J. The Sunday in mid-ocean 
was one long to be remembered ; it was one of the 
most perfect days I ever experienced ; the sea was as 
calm as it was possible for it to be ; the porpoises, in 
great schools, were sporting about the ship, some of 
them anxious to see what was going on in the 
outside world, judging from the way they bounded out 
of the water ; we all watched them with a great deal 
of interest. The usual service was held in the saloon, 
most of the cabin passengers being present. Some of 
the familiar hymns found in Moody and Sankey's book 
were heard ringing out lustily from the steerage, and 
some one had the spirit of exhortation and was 
evidently being heard by his congregation, as his voice 

was well 'keyed up. Mr. M and son, and his 

cousin, Mr. C , of Philadelphia, were returning 

from a trip to the Emerald Isle. Mr. M , whom 

I became very well acquainted with (he sitting next to 
me at the table), informed me he had been on a visit 
to his home in the north of Ireland to see his mother ; 
he said : "I shall never forget that parting scene ; 
when I was about leaving she threw her dear old arms 
around my neck and wept bitterly, and I had to tear 
myself away and hurry down the road, not daring to 
look back." He is a successful business man in the 



THROUGH THE BRITISH ISLES. 201 

northern part of the city. The days slipped by, and 
early Saturday morning, September 1, when I came on 
deck, found we were steaming up the Delaware bay. 
That word ' ' home ' ' never seemed so sweet to me 
before, and the old song, "Home Again from a Foreign 
Shore," which I had sung so often, never meant so 
much to me as it did that morning. It was more than 
sentiment to me ; my feelings were entirely different 
from what they were three months previous, when the 
bow of the same steamer was turned seaward, bearing 

a lonely bachelor to a foreign land. Captain K , 

an old friend of mine, who had charge of the govern- 
ment steamer, which brought the custom house officers 
to our ship, kindly invited Rev. J S and sev- 
eral of my friends, to accompany him on the steamer. 
The welcome which I received from the Captain and 
those friends, together with the one given me by the 
members and friends of the Bethany M. E. Church, 
Camden, New Jersey, is a picture that will hang on 
the wall of memory as long as the tall form of 
Butler is in the flesh. So endeth "A Bachelor's 
Rambles Through the British Isles," in which 
I have endeavored to have my readers accompany 
me each day in my journey through the land beyond 
the broad Atlantic. 



EPITAPHS 

Copied from various Churchyards and Cathedrals 
in England and Scotland. 



RALPH V , 

Died 1799, aged 24 years. 
Thus death, grand monitor, oft' comes to prove, 
'Tis dust we doat on, when 'tis man we love. 

WM. J. M , 

Aged 10 years. 
Silent be all my anxious fears, 

My heart, no more repine ; 
Since Jesus, in His bosom, wears 
The flower that once was mine. 

RICHARD H , 

Died 1819, aged 42 years. 
Ye thoughtless crowds that pass this way, 
Think on your God while it is day ; 
For night will come and you will be 
All in the dust as well as me. 

WM. H , 

Died 1863, aged 63 years. 
Old age and sickness brought me home 
To the cold grave, where all must come. 
Let old and young prepare to die, 
In hope to live eternally. 

ELIZABETH C , 

Died 1708, aged 62 years. 
Pale death will hardly find 
So good a wife so kind, 
A mother in all her actions was kind, 
They will not soon slip out of mind. 



EPITAPHS. 203 

HARRY S , 

Aged 6 years. 
A treasure lent not given. 

JOHN V , 

Died 1797, aged 72 years. 
Polite, ingenious, upright to the best of husbands. 

WILLIAM R . 

Afflicted by our loss we lay you here 
In silent sorrow, e'en your dust is dear. 

SARAH W , 

Died 1805, aged 53 years. 
Spectator consider ; death 
Will take you, judgment, will follow. 

ALBERT D. J . 

While earth-born fades and dies 

In darkness deep as midnight's gloom, 
The white-winged scales the skies. 

And lives in golden rapture there. 

JOHN R , 

Aged 24 years. 
A sudden change ; at God's command he fell ; 
He had not time to bid his friends farewell. 
Affliction came without a warning given, 
And bid him haste to meet his God in heaven. 

ROBERT T , 

Aged 34 years. 
How short and vain are all our earthly joys ; 
One moment gives, the next perhaps destroys. 
E'er I in wedlock closed the second year, 
I saw the ghostly monster, death, appear, 
Who, with pointed dart did pierce my breast, 
And laid my feeble body here to rest 
'Till that great day, when all shall rise again, 
And place upon a level king with men. 



204 EPITAPHS. 

SARAH C , 

In life respected, in death lamented. 

HANNAH H , 

Died 1842. 
She was — but words are wanting to say what — 
Say what a woman ought to be ; and she was that. 

JAMES T , 

Died 1826, aged 19 years. 
Observe my youth, note well the time 
How death may take you in your prime ; 
Therefore on earth fix not your love, 
Prepare to meet your God above. 

JOHN R , 

Died 1847. 
When at my life's last setting sun, 
My conflicts o'er, my labor done ; 
Jesus, thy heavenly radiance shed 
To cheer and bless my dying bed. 

EDWARD C , 

Died 1787, aged 22 years. 
Happy the youth who in his early years, 
Obeyed God's word and shed repenting tears. 
This fading world no pleasing charms can find 
To stain his soul or captivate his mind. 
Such was thy lot, blest youth, while here below, 
But thou art gone far, purer joys to know. 

JOHN H. M — -, 
Aged 50 years. 
Who are so greatly blest, 

From whom has sorrow fled ; 
Who find such deep unbroken rest, 

While all things toil ? — The dead. 
The holy dead, why weep ye so 

Above their sable bier? 
They are blest, they have done with woe, 

The living claim thy tears. 



EPITAPHS. 205 

WANETTA S , 

Aged 39 years. 
The smallest woman in the kingdom ; 
Only thirty-three inches high. 

ROSE K , 

Aged 21 years. 
Passing stranger, call this not a place of dreary gloom ; 
I love to linger near this spot, for 'tis my daughter's tomb. 

SARAH R , 

Died 1822. 
Here rests my wife now free from care, 
Removed, I trust, from Satan's snare. 
She lived in love, in peace she died, 
I wished her life, but God denied. 

JAMES B , 

Died 1781. 
O, cruel death, how could you be so unkind 
As to take him before, and leave me behind? 
You should have taken both, if either, 
Which would have been more pleasing to the survivor. 

JOHN B , 

Died 1809, aged 34 years. 
Stay, passenger, and look upon this stone ; 
And stand, too, and ponder well where I am gone. 
Death quickly took my life and sense away 
And laid me down in this dark bed of clay. 
Consider of it, and take home this line : 
The grave that opens next may be thine. 

J F . 

Our life is like a winter day, 
Some only breakfast and away, 
Others to dinner stay and are full fed ; 
The oldest man but sups and goes to bed. 
Large is his debt who lingers out of day ; 
He who goes first has the least to pay. 



Old England. 

By Chas. J. Butler. 

Old England stands forth firm and strong, 
With Ocean breaking at her feet ; 

Her arms outstretched to right each wrong, 
To all will justice kiudly meet. 

Where e'er sweeps Ocean's changing tide, 
Her white sails to the breeze are flung. 

She walks with progress, side by side ; 
Men list' and heed her silvery tongue. 

In valleys, and on hill and plain, 

Are found the loyal, true and brave ; 

All o'er her wide and great domain, 
No shackels bind a human slave. 

The dusky sons of India own 

The sway of England's noble Queen ; 

The Isles have long obedience shown, 
Though leagues of water roll between. 

Long she has with unwearied hands 
Held up the Bible, God's great light ; 

Still for the truth she nobly stands, 
That book, the secret of her might. 

Old England, ne'er thy trust betray, 
Long years ago God gave to thee ; 

Thy kingdom then shall ne'er decay, 
'Till Time's great wheel shall silent be. 



Written in Old England, 1894. 



CONTENTS. 



Page. 

The "Southwark," (Poem) 6 

Seaward Bound, 7 

On the Shores of Old England, 26 

My First Night in London, 34 

My Three Weeks in London, 48 

En-Route for Scotland, 86 

A Trip Through Old Ireland, 111 

Back Again to Old England, 148 

My Home Across the Sea, (Poem), 195 

Homeward Bound, 196 

Epitaphs Gathered in England and Scotland, . 202 

Old England, (Poem), 206 



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